ChrisC

My guess is It's the official power socket wiring, and light. I found mine in the boot of my 2011 sigma.

I think it all depends on what you want from the footage. I am using a super wide on a 20 min loop, because I use it as an independent in car witness. I am not sure what setting I would use it capture track day footage. The GoPro software does a good job of removing the fish eye if thats what your worried about.

The seven exhaust and primaries can be kept shiny with not much effort, using Autosol metal polish (from Halfords). It almost does not matter how bad they get before you polish them, but it does vary the amount of time a hand polish job takes to make them shine again. I think I polish mine about 2 - 3 times a year for a maximum of about 30 mins each time. I have never used the Car Plan products being advertised, I use a proper Snow Foam lance from Ultimate Finish and Blit Hamber Auto Foam. Snow Foam is supposed to be used to clean the car so it is clean enough to be washed with a buckets and mitts. This all helps to minimise the tiny fine scratches (called marring) which you can see on most cars (even new) which spoils the deep shine. My tin top has a nice polish level, and my snow foam cleans the car to such an extent that most of the time thats all thats needed. While waiting for the snow foam to do its job you can see the dirt flowing off. I very much doubt a product designed to be used on a garden hose will perform as well. For a quick shine, try Tough coat from Auto Finesse. Its a trigger spray synthetic way which takes about 10mins to polish a tin top. Finally I wouldn't use a pressure washer on my Seven, so hence I won't Snow Foam it, so for me that leaves a problem of how to get it clean enough for a hand wash. Auto Finesse to the rescue again on this, because they have a pre wash product called Citrus Power which is a hand spray on product that lifts dirt. Hope this helps

Quoting revilla: Forgive me if what I'm saying doesn't make any sense - I'm used to standard K-Series ECUs so it might not apply and I don't know anything about the Easimap cable - but it it worth checking the power and earth feeds to the ECU? If you've got resistance somewhere then the ECU will see a reduced voltage, won't be able to switch full voltage out to the pump and probably generally won't boot up, so wouldn't talk to your PC. This makes good sense to check the power supply and ground on you ECU especially as its not sending any data to the Easimap lead. I am a bit far for you, but would be willing to see if your ECU is dead on my loom. I wouldn't want to try my ECU on your loom, just in case the loom is killing the ECU.

Do you know of anyone local with the Easymap lead?

Quoting Racingshoe: you can spend waaay too much time on detailing 😬 Guilty 😬

I just purchased a large battery USB Power Bank battery. Its got more than enough power for keep my GoPro 3 powered all day and I can still take a charge out for the phone. Cost was about £20 from amazon. Mount it with velcro, and charge it over night before the next days blatting. We also carry it with us for all family outings, so phones, sat navs, cameras are never out of charge when needed.

Hi All I have a little oil leak from the dipstick tube, where it join the sump, so this got me looking at the parts web site for the possible parts I am going to need to repair. I noticed the design of the sigma wet sump dipstick changed from my car. The photo on the parts website of the wet sump seem to include a threaded adaptor for the dipstick tube. My 2011 sump has a press fit tube the dipstick tube slots into. So the question is has this changed, or are they just old pictures on the parts site ?

If you want easy clean wheels, try a good coating of poor boys wheel sealant, then only a quick rinse with an APC (all purpose cleaner) like blit hamber surfed hd at 20%, and some wheel woollies will see them sparkle. If they are contaminated already there is plenty of information on detailing world.com. I occasionally use a clay and ironx and tar remover to get poorly maintained wheels back to perfection. Edited by - ChrisC on 16 Mar 2014 23:27:26

If you are a detailers, and care for your paint to an obsessive state, then you will always use a pressure washer with a snow foam to get the car clean enough to wash. Then you will wash with the two bucket method and a lambs wool mitt. So a pressure washer won't damage your paint, but the way you use it might. As a interesting fact, most paint damage occurs by poor washing techniques, buy the owner. It's fun watching people scrubbing away with a sponge on black paint, and wondering why the paint has loads of swirls or marring. As for a recommendation nilfisk all the way. They only use metal pumps, unlike karcher who use plastic on the lesser models, and seem much less durable. Hope this helps

Will the FIA roll bar be mandatory? I can't see it on the MSV site.

DMFs tend to fail long before they are changed. Normally you can notice the rot on a cold morning for the first two or three pull aways, where a smooth judder free take off is impossible. I have a BMW F20 2012 125i which the signs of a failed DMF failure at 7K miles, just can't prove it yet. The Judder is transmitted into the gearbox and kills that if left (which most people do) Snapping the crank sounds a bit far fetched, but who knows. Edited by - ChrisC on 4 Mar 2014 21:00:25

Quoting FramerateUK: How important are the catch tanks on the 140? Mine doesn't have one. I've noticed no problems on track (and I'm certainly not going as fast as any of the racers!). Would you recommend fitting one? All cars need to vent crank case pressure, which is a combination of gasses that escape past the rings, and oil vapour. This crank case venting gets higher as the rev rise. On road cars its normally passed back into the engine for the engine to burn. This means your engine is burning its own by product which is not good for performance, hence racers vent this. They use a catch tank to prevent the oil content of this gas from escaping and contaminating tyres and the track etc (not good). So to answer your question, no you don't need a catch tank, but it does aid engine performance, but increases servicing time. Hope this helps Edited by - ChrisC on 4 Mar 2014 09:49:23

Bonus points if you can guess why I was checking it today.

Perfect thanks Mike and Blokko, now I know what i am asking for 😬

Hi All Can anyone identify this part, a ford part number would be fantastic, it's a black plastic cover panel under the inlet, above the started and next to the oil pressure sensor. I want to know what to ask for at the local ford dealer. Thanks POBC

Quoting Richard Price: Quoting ChrisC: The gauges take there supply from the tach, so are any of the other gauges playing up? If not try and get a resistance reading from the sensor wire by disconnecting the oil pressure gauge, if you tell me your resistance and engine condition I will post a comparison figure. I.e cold oil at idle I get x ohms. That should pin point gauge or sensor/wiring. Hope this helps. For reference, the Sigma uses a Danfoss MBS 1350 solid state transducer, and should produce 0.1 to 5V for 0-7bar. Having rigged this one up to a regulated air supply, and varied the air pressure, we saw 1.8volts at no pressure, and then random changes of voltage as I varied the pressure. I recon it's knackered! Good work

The gauges take there supply from the tach, so are any of the other gauges playing up? If not try and get a resistance reading from the sensor wire by disconnecting the oil pressure gauge, if you tell me your resistance and engine condition I will post a comparison figure. I.e cold oil at idle I get x ohms. That should pin point gauge or sensor/wiring. Hope this helps.

It doesn't sound right to me, my 150 oil pressure starts hight when cold, but drops at idle when the oil heats up. So the question is, where is the problem, gauges, electrical or a engine problem. I have the easimap connection lead to see if the ecu is seeing a problem, or the engine is running fine. Do you know anyone local with a diagnostic lead?

I have not measured, but the filter does touch the bonnet on a S3 Here is a side where you can see the Throttle Bodies and filter plate in relation to the engine Hope this helps

Should say I am not sure on the 140, assume it the same as the 125.

150 or 125? I understand on the 125 its connected to the inlet manifold, where are the 150 its open to the air (assuming the 150 has the revision H map)

I am hoping you are going to tell me that it is repackable, because mine if getting marginal on noise. Edited by - ChrisC on 10 Feb 2014 20:16:05

I think your right the material is not going to make that much difference between the fake and the real thing, my fake side stripe have a slightly different design to the originals, that has obviously been poorly copied, which makes them stand out :-(

Sorry can't help, but are you sure the Sigma silencer is repackable? i.e. This silencer is described as Re Packable and has rivets and bolts holding the front on the can on here My Sigma silencer looks like this here which has rivets but no bolts, so is it repackable? Edited by - ChrisC on 10 Feb 2014 13:10:52 Edited by - ChrisC on 10 Feb 2014 13:11:27