ChrisC

John

I want to say a massive public thank you for "lending" me new disc, pads. It was a cracking day all thanks to you.

Replacements will be sources asap.

Chris.

Sorry this was a copy and paste from a former member (that is obviously lurking on here) but is off to Cyprus soon so is not renewing his membership. So I am not 100% sure how this was done.

Yes a 140 will have the advantage of colder air intake, but (and the reason I went 150, over 140 at considerable additional effort) the 150 has throttle bodies, and they look nice 😬.

PS Yes I am that shallow

Sent to me via email from Malcolm Temporal

I think his referring to the "h" version of the 150 map, you can tell is this is fitted because the map sensor won't be connected to the inlet manifold.

Hope this helps

It's at Bedford, I think they have a fleet of 7s so it's a possibility.

I didn't see these on eBay (but I did do a search earlier with the same idea) messages sent to both.

Fingers crossed, and thanks :)

I think the plan is at the moment to go, and push what I have left as long as I dare before calling it a day. I might get a couple of sessions :)

Tried them, dead loss, and all the local motor factors (the few that are left) :-(

To keep your 150 singing your going to need the laptop to ECU lead (or find someone that has it) any a synchrometer to get the throttle bodies balanced.

The lead (and software) you can get from SBD at here

Once you have the lead you won't be able to make changes to the map, but you can see the live display of information from the ECU. This will also help with diagnosis of other sensor / wiring problems.

Willing to help you, but you may find someone local that has the equipment.

Hope this helps

Your looking for a steady 950 rpm, all throttle bodies balanced and a TPS voltage of 1.05v. The best way to get the TPS voltage is connecting a laptop to the ECU, and let the ECU tell you the voltage its seeing. It takes a bit of fiddling because each adjustment effects the others.

My 150 (newly converted from 125 this year) is a dream to drive once these settings where correctly adjusted. It will pull in 5th from 1500rpm, could not ask for more really.

Edited by - ChrisC on 4 May 2014 13:44:29

If anyone can confirm I would get a set of rear pads at Stoneleigh, it might be worth the trip in the tin top?

Chris

Good call, but no I don't know anyone that's going, just hope someone sees my post.

Hi

I am a doughnut, I had a plan over the winter to upgrade my front brakes, (and rear pads), but just didn't get round to it.

Now I have gone and booked a track day Tuesday only to discover I don't think I have enough meat on the rear pads.

I am looking for anything, in new or serviceable condition, that I can pick up (Today or Monday) I am based in Essex.

Hope someone can help

Chris.

Did you purchase them from eBay recently ?

These are the KN wheels here

and the MB wheels are here

Are you taking about the MB wheels or the wheels made by KN ?

Chris.

I was fitting a shift light this weekend, and came across a it of a mystery in my 2011 ex Academy cars wiring. I have an wiring diagram for the car that shows three connectors between the engine loom and the chassis loom, the smallest being the connector I was going to extend for the Tacho feed for the shift light. But this is where I have a mystery wire, the diagram shows two wires, but I have three. A brown yellow to the alternator, to show battery charging (on the diagram), the white black ecu to Tacho (on diagram) and another white brown ecu to Tacho, but what's that for.

The diagram shows one white brown wire but this is for the oil pressure switch, which is not an eyelet as described, but three completely different colour wires going to a danfoss switch.

It connected to a programmable I/O on the ecu according to the SBD site, anyone got a clue to its purpose.

You have no location, if you are local don't mind having a look.

Working from the earth back through the rear light clusters the connections are as follows

Earth to rear light clusters B17 and B13

Bulb

GP137 (left) and GP136 (right) join in loom into GP 138

GP 138 in main connector (13 way) to Engine loom

From Main connector to Engine Loom GP30 to Brake light switch GP30

From Brake light Switch GP29 to smaller connector back into main loom (6 way connector)

From small connector G72 to Fuse A (7.5a)

From Fuse A W63 connected into loom to

W64 - Fuse B Reverse Light

W62 - Ignition Switch

W61 - Ignition Switch

W60 - Fuse S Ignition Supply Engine

W59 - Fuse D Heater

W65 - Fuse C Instruments

W66 - Fuse E Heated Screen

W67 - Fuse K Wiper / Wash

W69 - Starter Button

Thanks JV Just what i needed

Hi All

I have just been given a ACES Shift light and mounting bracket as a present and I have spent the last couple of hours trying to find pictures of a factory install, unfortunately there are a lot of broken links :(

I have an aeroscreen and tonneau cover and I know the bracket mounts forward of the tonneau and centred over the speedo and tacho, so my questions are

1, Can someone confirm the distance from the scuttle edge the mounting bracket should be (just in case I fit a screen at a later date)

2, Where should the light wiring hole go on the scuttle panel?

3, Where does the factory locate the Control Module?

Hope someone can help

Got a Amazon (Amazon supplied) 64Gb Class 10 ScanDisk ultra, which has had no problem recording 4K from my 3+ Black, for the sum of £32 😬

Check its Amazon supplied, and genuine ScanDisk.