ChrisC

So lenses still up for grabs

First person has a BM sent.

Hi All I have a pair of new orange front indicator lenses, never user (but have slightly older screws because I used the new ones) and a used pair of indicator pods like this, like new Both free to a good home, providing my postage is covered (£3) Chris.

F1 plate is up for sale, if you have a spare £10M kicking around. here

I think his one of the countries biggest Land Rover dealers.

F1 is owned by the Afzal Kahn, his obviously moved it off his veyron 😬

Just saying its possible to alter the cam timing without the need for special key ways or adjustable pulleys, so you could adjust them on the rollers and see the effect.

The sigma uses friction fit for the cam pulleys, not a key way so well possible to spend some time on the rollers getting it right.

Know anyone local you could compare with?

I have the lead, you can get it from SBD, but I am not sure there is any cam timing information, only ignition and injection, but I could be wrong. Was the garage a caterham specialist? Is there a reason you think the timing is wrong, is it down on power?

Looks like the rad fins have a bit of damage?

Hi All I know its a long shot but my BMW tin top is up for sale, and someone here might be looking for a new tin top. Pistonhead advert here Chris

Thermostat is what I think is being lazy, staying open at 65c (and not the 82 mark on that stat) I think the sensor and gauge (recently replaced for other reasons) looks fine, when compared to my measurements using my IR thermometer. Should have said its a Sigma, so it only has one sensor for the ECU and gauge, the ECU controls the Fan. I don't have any overheating issues, just cool running. Edited by - ChrisC on 20 May 2014 16:15:52

OK silly question I have done the old thermostat in boiling water test, it opened no problem, but closed when I felt the water was to cold. So could I have a lazy stat? The stat is marked 82 - 97, so I assumed it would open at 82 and be fully open at 97. It actually closed at about 65, which is where my car is running normally, matching up with the gauge (Caterham original). I suspect all is ok with my cooling system, gauge and sensor, because the ECU uses the same sensor, and switches on the Fan when the gauge reaches 110 ish in traffic. So is it possible to have a lazy stat?

You don't have a location, I have a MBE lead if I can help? Any club member local to me is welcome to pop over and run a diagnostic check.

Hi Garth Do you have a specific problem, or is it just curiosity?

I have a "Red" Chrome bulb for my fog light, I have to say the results aren't very red, more pink. Its ok for a fog light I am never going to use, but for brake lights I want a bit more red. The orange chrome bulbs I have for indicators are also a bit weak. I am glad I have the half and half white and red rear lights from the bulk buy.

My cars next priority is a trip to the Black Forest and the last thing I want as a worry from the gearbox, so a call to Phill is good advice. Thanks. Chris.

Always 3rd to 4th (above 6500), its quiet if the change is made below 6. Its quiet 5th to 4th under braking. but also makes a noise as move out of 4th, but quiet into 5th. Can't help thinking I have a problem with 4th.

Looking a the video very carefully, the noise is made as 4th is selected, not as the clutch is pressed and its pulled out of 3rd. I am checking all the videos now to see if its always 3rd to 4th.

Not the same as a K CRB, its a hydraulic bearing. Wouldn't I hear a CRB problem with all gear changes, not just the high rev ones?

I have been using the GoPro in the Seven since I got it in December, but this was my first track day I have used it and it picked up a strange "chirp" sound while changing gear only when flat out. I didn't pick up on the noise, maybe because I wear ear protection, and I didn't feel anything funny or different with the gear changes. The car is a 2011 ex academy car, open sierra diff, 5 speed type 9, with a 150 kit fitted. My diff is not the quietest, and I am not worried about that, I think it could be a case of TADTS, or some weird resonance picked up by the GoPro, but I just wanted the BC community to confirm this. Video here PS The video was taken on the last session of the day, but all flat out changes from the day have this noise, also the second quiet gear change was done on the cool down lap from this session and the noise was not picked up on any gear change on the 100 mile journey home.

I think from the comments in this thread you can see that most of us think painting your car at this stage is bonkers. Why not wait until after the season, and send the parts to TSK to have then repainted over winter. You will have more stone chips with your first blat / track day than you have shown on your blog, so repainting now is just a waste money. Worse than the waste of money, is the loss of good driving time.

I am going to assume you not going to drive your R500, just polish it, because marks like that are just going to happen, and keep happening all the time you drive it, and its much more fun to drive it not polish it. I am assuming you have never seen the "factory" paint facility, I had my nose cone refreshed this year at the "factory" painters and they are very nice to deal with, and very reasonable rates to get the work done. Looks the XK Engineering are very good painters, just OTT for a 7

Just had a quick look at the wiring diagram to try and find something common between the Baro (I assumed this is the MAP Sensor), Oxygen and Injector A to D, but the only thing I can find is a Brown Black wire that comes from Pin 5 of the ECU, and is split in the loom and then connects to the MAP, Lambda sensor, but it also connects to the coolant sensor and TPS, so its unlike to be you problem :-( I suppose you could disconnect the MAP sensor, and see if it reports the "Baro as Open", If it does at least you know that it is the MAP sensor its reporting.