ChrisC

Domus, if you have set the cams according to the ford aligment tool, I a 100% sure you have set the cams wrong. The problem is I don't know what the correct setting is. It seems to be a very closely guarded secret the exact settings :-( I had to find a caterham expert (ex factory) that know the setting to get mine done. Its exactly the same problem with the 125, but I not even sure its the same setting

There is still that possible earth wire I talked about. Should be simple to check with the multi meter for continuity.

OK maybe I am wong. Have a read of this http://www.lambdasensor.com/main/mtesting.htm This and ths backs up your thinking, that the engine is rich for some reason. Chris.

Martyn I am going to do the same trace for you (fingers crossed) this weekend. Its a shame your not closer because my catbypass pipes lambda sensor was removed because the pipe was polished, and currently I have the cat fitted for MOT (which has its own lambda sensor) so its just sitting there not doing anything. Once I have my trace you should be able to compair, and give you a definitive answer. One thing I know is Bad AFR, does not 100% mean lambda sensor. It just means the ECU can't keep the Air Fuel Ratio in check within given parameters, this could be because the signal coming from the lambda sensor is wrong, and thereore the ECU is not seeing the AFR correctly. That said the signal coming from the lambda sensor looks wrong to me, I would expect some variation in the voltage, and from (my bad) memory mine drifts around 0.98v to 1.01v.

Well said martyn

Ok got it, and just removed on side. Thanks guys.

I would love to know what the nut method is, I just don't understand the instructions. A picture would really help.

The splitter I have has a 19mm jaw, but this does not fit the upper joint :-( so I assumed I needed a bigger one?

I am being thick but I just don't understand how this works :-(

Can you post a picture of it, so I can try and ID it?

Can anyone post a link to scissor type ball joint splitter that fits the top ball joint / upright? I don't fancy singing hammers in that area and my current splitter does not fit.

Plan B I am using CR500 so I assume -2 to -2.5 degrees is my target camber. I have a digital angle gauge, I could zero this on the top chassis rail, then level the bottom wishbone to this zero, then measure the angle on the stub axle relative to the chassis. This should give me a accurate meassurement without the perfectly level gurage floor. Anyone see a flaw in this plan ?? Chris.

Hi All I am in the middle of fitting a wide track kit to my 2011 metric car, I have noticed the top ball joints on the upper wishbones are lose, no problem, but what it the correct number of turn as a starting point. I know 1 turn = 1/4 degree of neg camber? Hope some one can help Chris

Ok Paul, this is what I did For power to the shift light I used a fuse tap, this allows you to get power from an exisiting fuse, and put an additonal fuse in for your shift light. https://www.flickr.com/photos/89014134@N03/16355557364 The tacho pulse comes from the MBE ECU via the engine loom, into the main loom then to the tacho. To avoid cutting into any of the original factory loom I created this lead with two eco seal connectors, which sits between the engine loom and the main loom. There are three eco seal connectors used to connect the engine loom to the main loom, its the 3 wire connector that has the tacho feed. Yon can see my shift light is cut into that wire in my loom. This makes my shift light install unplugable without damage to the original loom / instalation. https://www.flickr.com/photos/89014134@N03/16790471710 Hope this helps Chris,

Let me take a picture this lunch time, so you can see what I made.

You have a number of choices, some tap it directly from the back of the tacho. I decided to make a special connection lead using some eco seal connectors that sits between the engine loom and the main loom, and I used a fuse tap to get the ignition power. That way I didnt cut into the original factory loom in any way.

With the 150, there is also obvious checks to carry out, are the TB's balanced and TPS set? If it's been running fine on the original plugs, why not remove them and get a set from your local ford dealer?

I would have thought it alters the balance of the car, not the front grip level. I.e if the car is currently balanced and the front and rear let got at the same time, adding larger rears will change the balance so the front slips first, making it feel like it's udersteering.

I think my TB check takes 10 mins, max so as OliW says its not a big deal. But it helps owning the tools.

My 150 has had the 140 flywheel fitted this year. Let you know when the weather gets better. Are there any Sigma engine cars running the plastic rad, I was under the impression they all leaked years ago.

The 150 is reported to have 138 ish, where the 140 is supposed to produce more than 140, so in this case 140 is more than 150 and yes you are correct its "Track & Road", not sure where Road and Race came from

Don't worry about the noise, there is no signifcant increase, but there is a nice sucking sound added. I got on Bedford last year and had no noise problems. I think the cams are basically the same, not sure if the 140 uses the blue injector, or the map sensor in the same way, but I would play safe and get Road and Race to sort that bit. Power wise I think the 150 is a bit less than the 140. This is exactly why I went 150 last year (not the easy 140 route) with my 2011 car. No regrets.

Hi All Now on eBay and AutoTrader http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volkswagen-Polo-1-2-TSI-SEL-VW-2013-/201293319819?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2ede044e8b http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201502221158400 Chris,

So according to the Avon website and the EU lables, the ZZS has less wet grip than the CR500.

From the Avon web site, the ZZS has wet grip C, where as the CR500 has wet grip A, Does this mean less wet grip? I wouldnt want less grip in the wet than the CR500, which I think is the minimum for an all weather road bias 7.