ChrisC

The number looks like a Titan serial number, the one I posted was. Try sending it to Titan, they will tell you the exact spec that it left the factory.

Has it got a serial number? Example 45R691838

I have spent the whole day trying to find the problem, but the biggest problem has been trying to reproduce it. So all I can say is thank you all for the pointers and advice, but as for a resolution or answer, it's going to have to remain a mystery.

Your welcome :-)

I have a full set spare of the stainless nuts and washers, they are used but all perfectly serviceable, and I am going to that track day on the 18th, assuming it's a Bedford ;-). I could send them to you, or if you are on a trailer just wait until the day. Chris

Thanks Ray, will be checking.

7000mile, 2011 ex Academy car is the spec, so it has a rear ARB, but the noise last night was not suspension. It's always been road/wheel speed related, but it seems to be triggered by road surface condition. It's the intermittent nature that's making diagnosis so difficult. At its worst is was way louder than when my A frame snapped, but last night is was hard to hear over the exhaust.

Its near side rear, and its road speed related. Reading an old thread driving circles and getting regular clonking in one direction is a classic why to diagnose CV joint problems, but I just can't understand why after such a low mileage.

Yep - Open diff. Ok so some testing time tonight. I only got the noise once, and no where near as loud as it was on Monday, turning left anti clockwise in tight circles. Each time I tried clockwise right turn there was no noise. I remember going over a rough surface as I turned left each time the noise occurred Monday, so does this point to a CV joint? I thought if a CV joint was gone the noise would be constant, and not intermittent. Currently it can be a silent as I make myself dizzy driving round in circles, and banging like an old washing machine if I have just gone over rough ground. Is it normal to been a new CV joint after 4 yours and 7000 miles? Also I see on the Caterham Parts site it driveshaft replacement only, is this the only way to go, or is there a supplier of just the joint, or maybe a company that can recon them. Finally would you do both sides or just the suspected left side driveshaft?

I hope (know) the diff bolts havent fallen off Nothing looks to have departed. I have noticed there is a faint clicking noice coming from the diff now its jacked up, when one of the wheels is turned by hand and the other wheel turns in the opposite direction. I am not sure if this is normal? It could be just don't think I have noticed it before. I am going to a local car park tonight for some tight turns to see if I can reproduce it tonight.

Thanks, all will be added to the check I need to do.

The cams where new from Caterham (part number 36E064A), and they where set as per factory spec by Rob at Boss Racing (he is an ex Caterham employee). In fact the only second hand part I had to use was the ITBs, but these where reconditioned before fitting.

I sourced all the parts for a 150 last year, and had a independent Caterham specialist fit them. It cost about the same as the 140 kit. I 100% agree with the soundtrack, can't beat a bit of good old fashion intake roar.

Ok, so I have checked the wheel nuts, all to specified torque. There was nothing under the car when the AA man jacked it up, and it did it for a couple of miles after that, so I think we can rule that out. All the bolts are present in the Prop, but I havent checked the torque. What is the best way to test the CV joint?

What about the supersport kit ?

As I pulled away, another set of loud clonks, and more drive road speed clonks, appeared. So I pulled in again, and called the AA. He checked it all over and found nothing visually wrong, so we made the choice to continue driving home, staying under 30, on the assumption “what’s broken has already broken”, so will try and make it home. Anyway, about another 2 miles down the road all the noises stopped - as suddenly as they started. So - what should I be checking??? I have pulled the diff plug, to see if there is any metal, but the result was as posted on here as “normal”.

Chris, good luck with the bulk buy, I am not 100% sure, but I might be looking at a big bill, see my other thread, and for that reason I am out Chris.

Very nice Googling laser engraving now ;-) How much are we talking?

Since my car only does a few track days a year, I am giving the Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 5W-30 a go this year.

Thank Martyn Carbon only true man maths can turn a £5 lost part into a £200 cosmetic upgrade. Chris.

Hi All Well last night I finished my winter project, ready for an MOT today. As I was putting the finishing touches on the car I fitted the coil cover (plastic rocker cover), only to find I have misplaced the little push in cable clip that holds the throttle cable. No problem I thought can't be expensive, but a phone call to Caterham this morning advised it only comes with the coil cover. Caterham did advise it wasn't a part they had manufactured, but would have come from Ford, but what ford? Can anyone with that clip post any numbers that are on that part? I am hoping to find the ford part number. Obviously once I have purchased a new one (or a new coil cover) I will find the clip, but that is just the way life goes. Chris.

Close is what I am looking for, thanks Mike

Ok maybe I am asking the wrong question. How about this. if you have a widetrack metric car with approximately 2 degrees of -ve camber, can you accurately measure the number of threads exposed on the top ball joint, or count the visable threads for me? Many thanks Chris.

Another vote for Tony as TSK, you need to speak to him before any decision.