ChrisC

Yep I read that as well, but I removed my engine last winter, no special tools needed.

No special tool, I just used my finger.  I can't remember if it was a simple case of just pressing the locking tab, or if it have to be pulled out. Will check tonigh.

I think it could be possition,   They are normally tucked up in the engine bay, and not exposed to all the elements like they are in a seven.    I guess the possition could lead to wire breaks or maybe its the cooling while in operation from wind or water thats killing them.

Perfect.   PM Sent. 

Little bump 

Any light unit will do, front indicator, rear fog, what have you got?  

Many thanks 

Chris.

Hi All 

I am looking for a rear light lens, that can  be used by Scouts group doing their mechanics badge, where they are required to change a bulb.   I want to remove my prestine white lenses, so they dont get damaged during the exercise, so what I am looking for is a practise lens therefore condtion is not that important, even a small crack of two would be ok .

Hope someone can help?

Chris.

its just to the right of the thermostat, and below the breather, above the oil filter. 

Sent

Hi All,

Is anyone looking to sell a 6x13" Anthracite Wheel?  I only need one, would prefer unmarked condition, but will consider anything that can be refurbished.  Keen to purchase and cash ready and waiting. 

Thanks in advance

Chris.

I guess it would be easy to test the master cylinder, disconnect it and press the pedal, but you would have to blead it again and clean up the mess.

PS I am surprised a ford dealer would have an MBE lead to hand to read the fault codes, you can't read them with a standard OBD reader.

Quick look at the wiring diagram i am not surprised the instruments will stop the engine.  I guess if you lose the tacho you lose the engine, but I haven tried it.  The speed sensor is a good shout, it's connected to nearly all the instruments and including the tacho, green wire, if that had a short, you would blow the instrument fuse.

The oil pressure sensor is not directly to the oil gauge, it seems to go through the tacho, via a white and green wire WG, and then a while brown WN.

nice to know I am not the only one 

Problem solved, it was a spring in the drive shaft that locates it.  The last couple of coils have snapped off.  This was found by Boss Racing, thanks Rob.  Who also fitted a nice new Titan LSD 

Now I need to make up for lost time.

Sorry Roadsport, I have now taken payment from "cr"

will do

Sorry PM from "cr" at 8:42 this morning has first dibs, will let you know 

Chris

Price dropped and bump

Will do - Thank You 

Full details here 

http://www.msvtrackdays.com/car/calendar/2015/june/6-ba-gt.aspx

I can't attend due to work commitment, I also can't cancel or reschedule because its within 14 days, but I can change the name on the booking. 

£100

I use Castrol React Performance Dot 4, its a high temprature alternative to dot 5.1 (apparently).  Seems ok for my track days.  

Looked up part number here 

http://www.fordopedia.org/parts-catalog/sierra-mk1/E3.30

and finis 1486865 ordered from

www.fordpartsuk.com

is what I did

Order some geniune Ford items from fordpartsuk.com a couple of weeks ago for my 2011 Sigma.   I will post the Ford Part number tonight.   

Well my noise is back, but only as I drove 100 meters on a super smooth road close to home at the end of a blat.  Stopped pulled away and it was gone again.  

The noise is exactly the same as this http://youtu.be/0TQatsVaSy4 but I haven't been able to reproduce it on command.

It's loud, I have ear defenders and a helmet.  

If my diff has gone then I won't rebuild it, it will be replaced with an LSD, but why is it intermittent 

FYI the ford part number is 1143546, for that clip