ChrisC

I think I had to use a wobbly extension to get the space for my torque wrench on that nut. You might need to look at that as well while your at it Marcus ;-)

The plain nut is not brass, just yellow zinc coated.

I don't remember this being a drama last year when I did my wide track upgrade. Nip the plain nut to torque, then remove and fit the nyloc, again to torque, yes the ball joint rubber compressed but it soon locked into place, but this was the old upright design, not the 2014 versions. Are you sure the ball joint is not turning instead of locating?

Marcus is the plan nut up to torque?

Err - not exactly. I ordered a EP12 socket, and still destroyed the bolts. Cap heads ordered.

I can't tell you if the remap with the bypass pipe is worth doing, but I can say it didn't make a huge difference. I used one to protect the cat from the pops and bangs, didn't fancy replacing a dead cat each year at MOT time.

Engine warm idle 950 rpm + or - 25 rpm 4-5kg/h on the synchronometer And the Throttle Pot at 1.04v, which is right on the boarder of the TP site 0 and 1, so as soon as the throttle is touched it's into site 1, and as soon as you lift off its site 0. I believe this is the key to getting the smooth transition from off to on throttle, which so may 150 owners complained about. To get it spot on you have to use an MBE lead and let the computer tell you what voltage the ecu is seeing. As soon as you touch one thing, the rest needs adjusting so it takes a bit time consuming. hope this helps

I have just looked at your profile, looks like your Isle of Man based, so not local. There is an MBE lead in the tool lending library, so you could do the TP setting yourself. Chris.

Sorry it's Track n Road, not Road and Race. Road and Race are transmissions. I believe the number is 01708 869189 or http://www.tracknroad.co.uk If you are local, I could do the basic throttle pot set and throttle body balance for you, to see if that solves your problem. Chris.

Hi Derek It all depends on what you are looking for. My 150 is smooth, and pulls clean from almost idle in 5th all the way to the red line. I can also happily drive it at low speeds, and pull away is easy at slow speeds, but it wasn't always like that. It has to be setup accurately and to a specific setting, and have the latest Caterham map, and throttle quadrants fitted. I would not take this as read, even if you have had it recently serviced. It appears the sweet spot is not well known. I can tell when my throttle pot is 0.01v out as hesitation starts to creep back into driving experience! If you have all of this and are looking for that bit extra then a Custom map is the next step. I would looks at the two Steves and Road and Race, because they have the code needed to unlock your MBE ECU, and hence saving you the cost of a replacement ECU and mapping from scratch.

I have a wobbly extension which allowed me get torque wrench on the nut, so no guess work.

Yer but that is "not" the part fitted to the Caterham Sigma engine. I am guessing that switch is swapped out by Caterham and replaced with the Danfoss pressure sensor because the Caterham has a oil pressure guage not just a light. I think this a call to Caterham parts, and brace for the price. Saying that, Caterham Sigma parts prices are not alway that bad. They where only £1 more expensive for a single No.2 ignition lead, and they had that in stock, unlike my load Ford dealer, and when I upgraded to the 150 kit, the blue injectors where £10 cheaper each than Ford dealer supplied parts.

I don't think its a ford part because they only reference an "oil pressure switch"

I think disconnecting wont tell you anything. The error will different, i.e. "Open Circuit", not "Invalid Signal". What the ECU does it the specific instances may be different, which may mask the the diagnostic process. I.e. it runs different when its disconnected anyway, regardless of the sensor being faulty. I agree with Paul, its not like the sensors have a good reputation, so its a good shout. A genuine Bosch part is going to cost somewhere in the region of £70 - £90 (more for Ford branding). There are cheaper options out there. But my method would be to have the ECU tell you the problem, then replace the sensor as needed, I know this adds £100ish to the eventual cost of repair, but this is to get the tools for the Job. If you purchase the oxygen sensor, and its not that, then you would have spent the money anyway, and I bet you can sell the lead a few years down the line if you want some of your money back.

When I say warmed up, the sensor takes about 30 seconds to warm up before lambda information is fed to the ECU. That said, I know the lambda information is not closed loop, so its only a modifier within a specific range, it wont correct a mapping problem, and I am not sure what effect engine temp has on the map. For me 20 mins in, sounds like something failed or slipped, and there is a long list to check, which is why I have the lead. It was about £100 +Vat from SBD (local to you I think), and the software was a download from their site. All I needed to do with my 2011 car was plug it in (connector behind rubber bung on knee panel) and plug it into my laptop (USB) and it all worked. So it was simple to setup. I use mine every 6 months or so to ensure the 150 is in tune (TPS set correctly). It tends to need a little tweak once a year. When its spot on, it will pull clean in 5th from 950 rpm, when not it tends to have hesitation and starts to be come a pig to drive over speed humps when it gets even further off. I think its essential to have access to one, and a syncrnometer for the TB's

Also know to fail are the MAP sensors, although no longer used to detect engine load on the 150, they are still fitted and open to the atmosphere. The opening is upright, and can get water in, which will cause all sorts of problems.

I have the cable you need, where are you based? TPS and Lambda are good shouts. The TPS is very sensitive on the 150 and to get a clean running car must be spot on. If its out and you are light on the throttle the ECU could be trying to kill the power, causing the kangaroo. The Lambda probe is known to cause problems, but I thought the ECU didn't use the signal for the first few seconds before its up to temp. Not sure what the ECU would do if its open circuit however. You can just swap random parts, or find out what the ECU thinks is going on, which I would recommend. If you local willing to help Chris.

The oil breather is located under the inlet manifold. My sigma uses no oil on the road, but track days the catch tank fills up with some nasty stuff. I bet you have a split hose on the oil breather under the inlet manifold.

I had the lid leak as well, it seems the seal can damaged if over tightened.

Hi Marcus Looks like your a year ahead of me ;-) I wan't to build a 420R in the near future. Sorry can't help with your question, only done a few engine and suspension rebuilds myself, but wanted to wish you luck :-) Chris.

Hi alcal I have exactly the same problem as you decribe last year. The builder of my car decided to leave the gasget between the box and bell housing dry, leading to the leak. I am local (ish) let me know if you need any help or advise. Chris.

Fuel connector is a simple, you can do it with you fingers, just push the clip. The tensioner has to come off. I removed the alternator as well but I guess you dont need to do that. The tensioner can only be pulled off the studs when its clear of the column, so don't forget to put it back on the studs as you lower it back in. There are engine manuals online, which I found to be a great help getting the flywheel bolt settings correct.

The sigma one I changed last year, did have a "engine this side" marking, so just wondered.

Is it possible to fit a clutch plate the wrong way round?

Yes :-(