ChrisC

There is no guarantee the exhaust system fitted was used for the IVA test.  It might have been changed post IVA.       

Caterham will remove bigheads if fitted, and being prepared for IVA, actually that's not 100% true, they will over bond them, leaving them unrecoverable.    Its not the bighead or the tie wrap fixing, it's the minor (and I mean minor) lateral movement that caused IVA problems.  If you want bigheads for IVA get the version with the male thread, and bolt the wing to the stays, removable and bonded, but IVA compliant that  waits to be seen, but at least Caterham will present with them fitted.

This is closer in style to the ones sold by Caterham 

http://www.uapac.com/antique/5-3-4-led-headlight-with-white-led-position-light-bar.html

If you want to push the boat out, (like I did with my new build) you can get Y shaped heat shrink to split the wires from the head light and indicator.   The finish looks fantastic, but at a cost. 

where's the like button on this forum ;-)

OK so word of caution about the factory vinyl strips.   I wanted to change my nose badge from square to round in the Post Build Check, but Caterham are not sure they can match or lineup a replacement nose stripe, instead want to restripe the nose, bonnet and scuttle (including removing the windscreen).   I think that's poor given that I regularly have the nose and rear wings repainted during winter due to stone chips, and star cracks having to restripe each time will become a pain.    

I have the MBE lead, and will save you a few miles.   I am also about at the weekend, to save time off work.

Chris.

If you do a bit of digging in the archive you will find the Ford spec changed from 1.0 to 1.3 mm gap. This seems fine in Fiestas and Focuses, but Sevens started to run poorly.  I think it happened when the original part number was superseded.  You might want to re gap to 1.0mm

Not at Gaydon, spending all the time I can find building, but not getting very far :-( 

This is the cap I used, no leaks after fitting this bad boy.

http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=914

Now your car have passed the IVA switch to the race brake fluid cap, it has no holes and therefore can't leak even if inverted.

I found the caps can also leak if they have been over tightened once to many times (same as the coolant cap)

It means you wont have the brake fluid level warning light, but that's a small price to pay.      

I use bilt hamber, because you use water as the lubricant.

http://www.bilthamber.com/waxes-polishes-and-clay-bars/auto-clay

Caterham have a Titan on ebay.   

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CATERHAM-WESTFIELD-LOCOST-ETC-3-92-LSD-TITAN-LSD-/262625116949?hash=item3d25ad4315:g:UUQAAOSwmfhX2Rc0

Yep, that's what I intend to use, but I had to clean the threads with a tap first to remove all the original thread lock.

Hi Marcus

My take on 95 98 question is from a different angle.  98 has less bio ethanol, which from my understanding attracts moisture, and is known to damage aluminium fuel tank when stored.  I know this is over simplify the ethanol in fuel issue, but I just err on the side of caution.

I toured to Germany, and found no problem getting 98 in any country on the way,  but while in Germany it was rude not to use the 105 that was on offer ;-)

Chris

Hi Tom

Building my first Caterham, and enjoying it ;-) Thanks.  Hope your well.

i have a image from Caterham with the calibration settings they use, which I can send you tomorrow it you send me a message with your email address.  

But this was still a bit out (over) compared to sat nav.   So I just added 9% to the number, because it's was about 10% over.  This left my speedo 1 mph over sat nav, all the way up to 70 which was just about perfect.   Basically you need a good way to calibrate it, either a sat nav or another reading from a proper car while you follow it.

You can't go wrong, it's just a number, so take a note of it before you start and put that number back in if you don't like the adjustment you have made.

Chris.

Calibration is very simple on the current electronic speedo.   Just hold the reset button when switching on the ignition, a 5 digit number will appear.  This is the number of pulses per mile, if your speedo is reading under by 10%, reduce the number of pulses by 10%.

PM sent, another recommendation of where you can get that map changed. 

Its difficult to tell without having the old and new one side by side. 

One of the complaints is the throttle is too sensitive, especially when trying to drive slowly, it's supposed to prevent a kangaroo effect, caused by your foot being pulled of the pedal as the car starts to accelerate, hence closing the throttle.  

It does lengthen the pedal travel needed to reach full throttle, which i guess is the only down side to the revised quadrants.   

It was the last modification to the 150, but by the time it was out Caterham had already created a lot of unhappy customers, and the 140 kit was just around the corner in 2011.     

The two Steves are the original developers of the map, and can do a custom job for you.    But there is no need to feel it needs it.    Every one that was a passenger in my 150 was surprised by its smooth character, one comment said it ran smoother than a 140 he had hired from Caterham.

You need the new map that's for sure, you can get that from Caterham or I know of at least one local specialist in Kent that can flash your ECU with that.   You also need to find yourself one of these http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=3834 or is it a pair, not sure because I sold the car now.    Then get the TB's balanced and the TP set, and see how it drives.   

If you still want the custom map after that you will have at least go the car to the best it can be before for you start that process.  

Don't think there was ever a recall.   I think they where sorted via warranty work.    Do you have a problem with bogging down?

You can tell if you have a later map if the MAP sensor is connected to the throttle body, or open to air.    The connection on the throttle body where the MAP sensor was connected should be bunged up if you have a later map. 

The last update was the quadrants which I think are harder to identify if you have the latest version.

Have you got S3 doors on your SV?  Maybe build problem that was never picked up.

Yep iPhone, with the TomTom app, using a Sena bike intercom in my helmet (and my passengers).  I keep my phone is a water proof phone bag, with a power pack for an all day power source. 

This setup got me all the way to the black forest during a very wet summer, with an aeroscreen.  The Sena will also play music from the phone if you wish.  

I used Tom Tom on my phone, and a Bluetooth motorbike intercom headset in my helment, worked a treat.

I purchased this socket

https://store.snapon.com/TORX-Plus-174-with-Countersink-Socket-TORX-Plus-External-12EP-P768746.aspx

It removed them, but damaged the bolts in the process, so they can't be reused.