ChrisC

To clean the suede on the bottom of my bowling shoes I use Bilt Hamber Surfex HD, in a dialution of 10 - 20% water and wipe with a microfiber. Then leave to dry in air before using a suede brush. They come up clean, and given they are light grey suede and sometimes come home near black from unclean centres shows how good the product is. Best thing is Bilt Hamber Surflex HD has 100's of other uses for example it's my wheel cleaner (at 20%).

PM me for details, you will understand why, but not for public forum

Don't bother fitting the top steering column bush if you are going to get the IVA done by Caterham. It will be removed and refitted as part of the process, so you are wasting your and their time. The part looks quite second hand once it gets removed from its correct location.

The 360R air filter Ford part number is 1729854. I think it's from a 2001 - 2008 petrol Fiesta / Fusion but not ST150 ​Also on the packet is the number 2S619601C1A Which means according to the K&N cross reference ist the same as a K&N 33-2853

Yep that's them. It came from Derek. Chris.

Hi Marcus On my 2016 S3 it already had the extra seat belt mounting posts, When I asked CC they said they where for HANS. Looking at the pictures in your blog it's difficult to tell if the SV has the same. Chris,

The sigma one is silicone but the duratec one is rubber and cheaper

Pair of mobile axle stands with uprated nylon wheels. These are ideal for building or restoring a Caterham in a confined space, and moving it on a less than perfect surface. They also permitted my engine hoist to go under the cross bar, so there was no need to take it off the mobile stand while the engine was being installed, which meant it was possible to move the chassis as well as the engine to align it. Perfect for building in a single garage. There are few chips on the paint, but have only been used for one build. They are big and heavy so collection only please. £170

For clarity mine is a October 2015 supplied 6-speed, 10 mm would not fit but 3/8 (9.5 mm) was a prefect fit. Looks like they use two different sizes.

Its imperial, 3/8 from memory

On my metric car the rear lights (and the speedo sensor) are earthed at the front left on the brake union. Have you checked there?

Unfortunately I no longer have the part number because my paperwork went along with my 150 last year. From memory they are they are a standard ford part for an ethanol setup (blue injector). The Caterham specialist that converted my car found the part number by ordering one injector from Caterham and then tried to get the rest from the local ford dealer, unfortunately at the time ford wanted more that Caterham for that part.

I will be driving to my retest so I will have the opportunity to test the speed sensor at the speed it will be tested (up to 70 mph according to the IVA manual). But I wont know until the day if it's working or not at that speed. I might ask Caterham for a spare Speedo and Sensor, just in case, and a support car with axle stand, jack and tools might also accompany me to the test. It is going to be intresting going over the Dartford crossing twice with no number plate.

Here is the trace from my speed sensor. The noise at the top of the signal comes from the ECU, disconnect the ECU and the trace is a perfect square waveform. Looking at the noise in context to the signal I don't think it's going to influence much, but would be nice to have a clean signal. It looks like my sensor is reading all the teeth up the the speed I dare go on the axle stands. Stupidly I didn't dip the clutch while I was taking the trace, so I will be doing that tomorrow. I guess if that test is ok I will only know if the speedo is working above 30mph next time I go for a retest. https://www.dropbox.com/s/78b7i07ny1mxhdt/speedpluse.png?dl=0

I am aware of the ground wire modification, but the ground is fine, cleaner electrically than the instruments ground, which isn't clean. The problem is being introduced by the ECU, if I disconnect the ECU the problems disappear. The ECU is connected to the speed signal via a programmable pin, It looks like I have a signal coming from my ECU that is flattening the speed senor pulse causing the speedo to stop reading when the clutch is pressed. I now have a trace recording oscilloscope to help resolve the problem. I will be able to see and record the signal coming from the ECU on the speed sensor wire, so its my plan this weekend to get the recordings.

I have been doing a bit of investigation over the weekend and here are a few things I have found. Not saying any of these are problems, just observations at this stage. I have now gapped and sensor and it gives a good reading on all teeth. 1, My earth to the sensor is good and clean. The earth for the instruments is not as good, but I will sort this given time. I will investigate further any interference on the earth once I have my PC scope up and running. 2, The speedo is wired for a PNP induction sensor, based on the pin out / install instructions on the CA website. The sensor we use is a NPN, based on the sensor part number. 3, The sensor signal wire is passed to the engine wiring loom. On a sigma engine car the engine wiring loom does not pick up this connection, but on a duratec engine this wire is passed to pin 27 on the MBE ECU. On a MBE 9a4 this is a programmable input, but it's not listed on the 992 ECU fitted by Caterham. 4, My speed senor signal is lower voltage when the engine is running, to when the engine is stopped. I haven't traced the connection to the ECU yet, it is possible the wire has been put into the wrong pin in the ECU plug, and this caused the speedo to die when the clutch is pressed (and the throttle closed). Also I did notice an error the ECU was reporting on the Barometric pressure sensor, as far as I understand this is not fitted to a Caterham, but pin 28 is the 9a4 BARO connection.

I guess not

So no shorting in the pedal box, the cover is not fitted during the IVA inspection. I am aware of the lengthy gap discussions, hence my attempts to get it working, but its the clutch down speedo dies that throw me. I have sources an oscilloscope so I will be testing the speed sensors signal quality at source and at the speedo to see if I can diagnose it myself.

Hi All What a stupid thing to fail on, but not having a working speedo above 30 mph is fair justification, and its not as if they didn't give me enough time and attempt to get it working. In fact the IVA guy bent over backwards to help, but eventually time bet me. So I know that the sensor has to be 1 - 1.2mm away from the sensor ring, but I didn't have any reliable way the measure this during the time given to fix it during the test. Before this turns into a Caterham bashing thread, they didn't road test my car, under my instructions because of the salt on the roads, and it wasn't driven to the test. The next time it wil be driven is for the retest, and it would be nice to have some confidence that my £90 retest fee is going to be worth it. So the symptoms Test 1 : Sensor very close, no visible air gap but no contact with the ring (as adjusted during PBC). The speedo would get to 10-15 mph and refuse in increase. Test 2 : Sensor gap adjusted by me, but to far to ready any speed. Test 3 : Sensor gas adjusted between the two, this time I could get the speed to 20mph driving around the test centre, and up to 30mph on the rollers before the examiner jumped in to perform the test. All was fine up to 35 mph, the speedo then died to 0 mph. I did observe during my limited time driving around the test centre, when the clutch was pressed the speedo died to 0 mph, very strange given the clutch its not connected electrically in any way, I also want to point out I an not ruling out wiring faults because my car was wired incorrectly from the factory on initial startup. However the manuals wiring diagram it a little out of date I feel. I know I am going to adjust the sensor again, this time with more tools and potential for accuracy. I am going to check the signal at the speedo and the other point I have found in the loom, hopefully with an oscilloscope, if I can find one. I just can't explain the clutch / speedo connection, and nor could the Caterham mechanics I spoke to post IVA. And yes they would rectify it if I left it with them, but I am not doing that until the weather is better. So this is just about working out what the problem is/might be before a retest. Hope someone can add any perls of wisdom or other areas to test. Chris.

Not sure if the IVA test is stricter, but I had my 360R IVA tested yesterday. I was 1/2 db under, so that was 98.5, and therefore over the 98db static limit for Donington. The last time I was there I can't remember having a static test, instead they relied on the drive by, but things like that change.

Hi Jason My paperwork was sent first week in October, and my test is this Thursday. I am not sure how much the Christmas break effected my timelines, but what I am trying to say is don't set deadlines unless you like the sound they make as they rush by. Speak to Caterham, each centre has it's own quirks and you will need their help with presenting the car, depending on your cars spec. My car for example is having the brake pedal, exhaust and steering column / wheel changed tomorrow in readiness for my local centre. Also some of the trims I put on based on build blogs where removed because they are not needed at my local centre during my PBC. IVA appears to be a black art, one which I don't think is passable without Caterhams help. Chris.

This is how mine was, the PBC re located the connector to the loom. My concern is where the wire enters the sensor, its just looks like a wire held with epoxy. The sensor is moving with the suspension and the unsupported wire is free to move where it likes, which makes me think its likely to break where the wire enters the sensor. I think given the design it is inevitable that the sensor wire will break, its just a shame the break will happen close to the sensor making repair virtually impossible. I would like to see the sensor moved to the inner CV joint near the handbrake cable adjuster, that way its less exposed to the elements and not moving with the suspension travel, but given that is a little extreme for my modification skills. The option that is running through my mind it a connector closer to the sensor, attached to anti roll bar bracket, so the sensor its wire and connector all remain stationary in comparison to the suspension travel. A second sacrificial wiring loom for the three wires is created with a connector each end, one for the now secured sensor connector and one for the secured main loom on the chassis. This would at least make the inevitable failure cheaper.

Looking at the way my sensor wiring was rerouted for the IVA test (next week) during the Post Build Check, it puts a lot of load on the wire joint between the sensor which is unsupported. No wonder this leads the sensor failure. Post IVA I am going to give this wire a little thought.

FYI Caterham do sell the link on its own (not as an assembly) which is much cheaper https://caterhamparts.co.uk/anti-roll-bars/3334-ball-droplink-anti-roll-bar.html Chris.

Yes, but the tensioner is lower on the exhaust side