ChrisC

I would speak to Oxted Trimming, they make most of the soft bits in a Caterham, and they have supplied me individual parts of a carpet kit in the past.

I looked into doing this with my 420R. The loom is separated into a number of sub looms on modern cars for a modular approach around the different engine, and dash combination (well when it was changed back in 2016ish). The chassis loom and engine looms both have a oil temp gauge wire. One is tied up in the unused wires near the starter, and the other is near the headlight/fan connections near the DS tank near the sensor blank. Unfortunately this is where the good news ends because the connection wasn't extended into the dash loom or switch loom. These are connected via a small module (or a large module if you have the 620 dash), so the connections doesn't reach the gauge. It is possible to make it work, but it will be more effort that it could have been, and there won't be any plug and play solutions. So (and assuming you want to keep your warranty) it had to wait for me as a future mod.

For reference look at this post /forum/techtalk/oil-pressure-360r

Check the lead between the round rubber plug and the sensor. There is a resistor and a diode soldered in the wire. The joints can break very easily.

If they are setup properly 150 Sigmas are great. But all to often I have seen them poorly setup. One early car (version 1 of the Caterham TBs) had never been balanced, because obviously who ever serviced it for 10 years could be bothered with removing the fuel rail, and yes that was a specialist. I have adjusted and setup ten, maybe more 150s now, only one was running well when it arrived. Lots of reasons to modify a car, don't let poorly maintained be one of them.

For reference, new out the packet they can be difficult to fit. I found getting the shoulder bolts started first worked. They get easier with time because they're shape adapts with engine heat. That previous thread the wedge was fitted by the dry sump installer when they refitted the sump after endless oil leaks.

A set of 5 puzzle bolts for prisoner wheel centre caps. I have 4 with a key, but my spare doesn't fit.

Not sure I would mix coolants, that's where the problems can start. Either get Motul, or flush and refill with an alternative. I switched from Millers (kit supplied) to Comma due to local supply issues.

It's easy without the dry sump tank. It's also easy to damage the side skins (like i did with my 360) https://caterham420detailedbuildblog.co.uk/2019/12/24/exhaust-primaries/

Can anyone point me in the direction of a early 90s assembly guide for a DeDion XFlow. Preferably with a wiring diagram as well? Many thanks Chris.

Hi All I am looking for a Xflow from the late 80s or 90s. Trying to keep as period as possible, so would prefer flares and little to no modifications, but must not be a Q plate (sorry) Project cars considered. What's out there? Chris.

I just plug my CTek into the 12v socket. Works a treat.

Yes, Friends 420R stopped firing one cylinder at a Trackday at the beginning of the year. Swapped coil packs and plugs with no change in symptoms. Loom connections all checked out ok. Eventually diagnosed as the ECU coil pack driver. MBE provided first class support, replaced the coil pack driver for a very reasonable charge.

Since it was me that made the comment, I think I should backup my statement with the evidence / observations I have made and the reason behind it. Every time my 420 with a stock locked Caterham MBE 9A4 ECU is isolated the Adaptive Map Output and the Short Term Trim is reset to 0%. This does not happen if the ignition is switch off and back on again. Normally the Adaptive Map Output is -10% (max value) and the Short Term Trim is between -7% and -11% meaning the base map is approximately 20% rich. While running with just the base map, my lambda is voltage is 1.22v, way to high(rich) for the ECU to accept the signal as valid, so it's ignored. The ECU reports it's ignoring the lambda sensor with a faulty code of "Bad AFR Reading" and assumes a value of lambda. During this time the engine is running significantly rich, with all the negative effects that brings. However eventually the coolant temperature compensation brings the lambda voltage into a range that is acceptable (1.1v which is still very rich), at approximately 12 mins after starting and a coolant temperature of 90c. The official warmup time for the lambda closed loop system is 30 seconds and 60c coolant. Therefore an isolation event effectively makes your engine artificially rich for longer, it's difficult to say how rich and for how long because it depends if your coolant is going to reach the temperature needed to bring the lambda into acceptable range. Combine this with a bit of over cooling and you may never achieve closed loop control and adapt the base map. I am happy to provide the data if anyone wants to research this further. Personally since finding this out I isolate less, and only when leaving the my car for more than a day.

Every post 2019 420 in the Essex group has had one or more replacement radiators. That includes factory and kit built cars. The real kick in the teeth is CC suppliers races with the rad and oil cooler separately and at a much lower price in comparison to the 420 road spec combined unit, even though the design is almost identical. I am not sure why they are failing, is it the minimal vibration mounts, stress from the ill fitting hoses, vibration from the fan pressing against the 7 grill or the combination of all of these factors. All I know is mine lasted 2 and a bit years, so failed outside warranty, and this is far longer than most have managed. The stack of new, unused 420 oil coolers (not available without the radiator) at the CC Easter parts sale tells you all you need to know about the current 420 radiator situation. Obviously the CC techs find it easier to undo the two bolts holding the cooler to the rad, than drain and replace the oil cooler / rad combined unit. I have never been happy with my 420 radiator design, and when it expired I realised for a minor increase in outlay I could convert to the 2008 - 2018 design, where the vibration mounts are bigger, the hoses fit, and nothing touches the grill or nose cone. This was only possible because CC at the time still supplied the oil cooler mounting brackets and fan mounting brackets in my kit even though they where redundant parts due to the new design.

Your correct, the tunnel is wider so even a metric chassis doesn't guarantee the space will be available for the Mazda gearbox to fit. I think the only real clue is the removable gearbox mounting plate in the middle of the tunnel.

When the club was invited to the Caterham Technology Centre, not long after the 160 was launched, they showed the how they had changed the values in the dampers for that model. They had a damper there where they showed the process. They also explained only mono tube dampers would work on a 7 due to the weight. Doesn't mean they haven't changed since.

It doesn't matter what positive information is posted on this thread/forum about the synter plated Titan diffs, it will be shoot down by the mistakes from the past and the price owners have paid for the lack of information at the time.

Agreed, I just purchased an ID4 (I say just, been on order for a year). It is an appliance, but at least it's not trying to accelerate 2 tones at warp speed. But it's horses for courses, it's the best family wagon I have ever had, although I have one specific concern with my dogs and the boot floor, but that's a different story. Green it is not, and I have refused to have the green flash on the number plate. Strange thing was UK Power Network increased the size my house fuse for free because it's a low carbon initiative, how dose that work??? As for the Seven, I worked out, based on 1 tank every two weeks over summer, push some tanks for the odd track day, that I could offset my carbon locally (not in Indian) with a charity that's planting trees in my county. It cost less than a tank of fuel for one year. Conn or not, playing for a tree to be planted, in the name of my years seven enjoyment is fine by me.

It seem to have been dropped as an option on the S models (from the website), but that's only a starting point anyway. After all if you want it, you can have it, hence you see non 620 with carbon interior panels, or non cup 420 with the Sadev.

I agree the fitment of the filter in the airbox is great, and the paper filter (from a fiesta I believe) is best. The interesting thing is the same filter isn't used when swapped to a K&N, it's a Nissan I believe. So check you have the correct filter, not the cross reference from the paper filter.

My 2019 kit Duratec also has tamper seals

Welcome. If the tank is bone dry (ie new build) it won't start with 5lt, a second can is needed. So not sure where the "run out" line is but at 9lt I think your pushing your luck. So your fuel gauge is sort of accurate to my experience, and that's not surprising given the pickup/fuel pump/sender is all one unit. That said they fuel pump unit can be fitted incorrectly, but this normally results in a low full reading. I think your fuel gauge action sounds normal to me. Try it on a track day and see how fast it drops

From my personal experience I am not expecting the driveshaft / bearing to be reusable if I need to dismantle them. My Oct 2019 kit (2020 registered) has been through two driveshafts and rear bearings sets. Fretting caused damage to the inner race, and the driveshaft surface. Both sides showed the same damage, and it was worse over time / distance travelled. My driveshaft where replaced at different times so I it was possible to observe. I now recommend SKF anti fretting paste during assembly, which I applied to one of the driveshafts, only time will tell if it saves the driveshaft / bearing.

I had problems with my 2019 kit's rear bearing fit on the driveshaft, and ended up with both rear bearings and driveshafts being replaced under warranty. In short the shaft seemed to be undersized, resulting in bearing fretting, damaging both the bearing and the shaft. Would be interesting to see yours one taken apart.