ChrisC

No 100% sure, but can’t see why not.

They changed the mounting of the drop link between 2011 and 2015 (my last two cars). This is the 2015 car build spec

No. A standard auto electrical will be used to getting codes telling them the sensor is not working. The lead will show you live data coming from the sensor, so you have to determine if the sensor is working or not. You also get a trace (think f1 style telemetry) which you can use for diagnosis. For example a mate had a problem where the engine died for no reason. I could see via the lead when the engine died the lamda voltage showed a mixture getting leaner, but the fuel pulse getting longer pointing to a fuel supply problem. A deeper dive into the data showed just before that the battery voltage increased as the fuel pump switched off. The problem was traced to an intermittent inertia switch. basically good diagnostic skills are needed. Glad you went for a good quality part ;-)

You need someone with the MBE lead and the knowledge to diagnose the problem. Even if you purchase the lead yourself it will save you money in the long run (and it can be sold when you sell the car). It’s possible you have a new faulty lamda sensor, if the wiring was causing the problem it wouldn’t matter if it was connected or not. Was it a Bosch or Ford part?

My cap showed no signs, I think the seal just got week. Wasn’t expensive to replace, and I would do it just because you keep having to break the seal to top up.

Mine liked to lose through the plastic rad, and the expansion cap. Rad and cap replaced sorted it.

Could also be the angle of your steering rack / column. Rotating the rack in the clamps just a little bit alters the column location, this could be all that’s needed to clear the belt.

Yes a repair is possible, but I question the thinking behind repairing such a poor quality part. My switch failed with less than 1500 miles on the clock, thankfully I had fellow club members following me when it went, even thought we had a day of driving still to go to get home. Failure with normal traffic would have left me very exposed. The original switch is £5 from Caterham, I think this says it all. I would replace at minimum, and recommend an upgrade.

I don't blame the sensor, but it's location. Why is it bounced around near the rear wheel, when it could have as easily been on the over end of the drive shaft near the diff, not exposed to as many elements and wire fatigue.

Sorry 420R is dry sump as standard 360 (R or S) and 420 S is wet

Hi Tom I think there are a lot of factors here to consider. From Scotts comments he would have you think it's essential, however I have never owned a dry sump car, and have done plenty of tack days and so far not blown anything up (yep). The factors I think are 1. The track, some tracks are going to cause you more problems than others. I guess long high G corners are the things to avoid. 2. Tyres, more grip mean more G 3. Your ability to exploit the limits and high G. Can you push the limits of your car in the corners. 4, Oil system design. I have spoke to a few Caterham techs, and they where of the opinion the 420 had the dry sump for packaging reasons, i.e. it's fitted to justify the price increase over the 360 more than the owners need for it. If that's true (or not) what we could be saying is the SuperSport R and the 360 R are cars that shouldn't be driven on the track, and I don't think that's the case, because your car would have already expired given your track activity. Finally how much faster will you be cornering given the extra power? I suspect not much, after all "adding power makes you faster on the straights, subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere" is quote Colin Chapman quote. I am sure Raceline has the answer ;-)

Thanks Mike

I know 150 are Blue and 125 Green. I have the Ford part number for the Blue injectors somewhere because they where hard to identify, in the end they turned out to be the ethanol injectors for a 1.6 Sigma for reference SMPE FI1237 or Ford 1222359 2S4U-9F593-AB . But I might be trying to teach grandma how to suck eggs here

Wow that's a little harsh, for a bit of TADTS on the fuel level, and a bit of adjustment of a sensor (prob less that .5mm). Still some people's expectations are set by price not by research into the product they are buying.

The scope didn't pick up any earth problem before or after the earth mod. The interface on the trace you can see is from the ECU. If you remove the ECU the trace is perfect.

Yup, the usual gap & earth mod sorted my problem. I will say, this is not 100% perfect at non-legal speeds over 100 mph, but for now it will do.

13s work better as you can tell from the comments Can't see why you would want an R pack, a pack which according to Caterham is track focused, be compromised with wheels (and lack of tyre choice) for looks, after all the tyre is actually the only thing touching the ground without it nothing makes scene.

My vote ZZS, seem to work ok.

Get yourself to a local meeting, This time of year I bet you will be able to find someone that will let you sit in a car with the combination of chassis, floors and seat that best suits you, and your needs.

My car needed them for IVA this year.

Beats me, but I would want to know what the logged faults mean. I think thats going to be a call to SBD, unless you can find them on their website (which I can't). It would be where I would look next. They start at 44s into the run, and are logged at 2m32s, and another fault at 3m12s.

Err - you haven't got an air filter ? The standard air filter is a Pipercross panel which is a very tight fit under the bonnet. The standard filter is https://caterhamparts.co.uk/other/2802-air-filter-sigma-150hp.html?search_query=150+filter&results=2 and the back plate is https://caterhamparts.co.uk/other/3708-air-filter-back-plate-150hp-sigma.html?search_query=150+filter&results=2 Note the offset on the holes for the trumpets, without this the panel filter won't fit under the bonnet. Looks like CC are out of stock of the filter, but it's just a very shallow Pipercross PX600, I guess "Box 40mm C6001", but your going to need to confirm that. I wouldn't run any engine of mine without an air filter.

Can you check the reset count, it's a random number when the ECU starts, and it increases when the ECU has a power supply problem.

The 150 is the most old school because you need to balance the throttle bodies, just like the 45's. The bit that's not so old school is setting the TPS, which has to be spot on 1.04v. The only way to set this is pluging it into a PC with easymap running, but the adjustment is just a case of loosening a couple of screws and giving it a tweak. So your going to need to beg, borrow or buy a MBE Can lead to do it. Think of the 140 as the same upgrade as the 150, but without the hassel of balancing and setup, and without the nice noise.