ChrisC

I think it would be ok to replace/upgrade to a Caterham part. Thankfully the R pack already includes a lighted flywheel so that box is ticked.

So metric tools for the imperial fixings, not in my garage.

Didn't Caterham purchase them ?

For reference my part numbers are from 2015 360R build - My 2011 Sigma used a Ford (Bosch) Lambda Sensor.

Water Temp Sensor ECU is Ford standard (in plastic housing at the back of the engine) Lambda Sensor is a Rover Item (MHK10006)

I want to keep the spec stock given I still have over a year to go of the warranty. So far it looks like there is nothing on the “Must Replace” list.

It's more a question about service parts, like engine mounting rubbers and CRBs. I am not looking for upgrades. The engine is out due to a gearbox warranty issue which CC is dealing with, given it was a kit build the engine removal is down to me hence the question. Everything looks fine, and worked fine up until the removal. Its now about planning the reinstall. That said, I have had a rear shock let go (oil all over the garage floor) since the engine was removed. I have had no problems with cooling (since I fitted a 82 degree stat at the first service).

Hi All Simple question, If you had your engine out after 1700 road miles, what would you change, if anything?

In my car the cooling fan was running when the ECU (via the MBE lead) was reading 99C, but the lower hose was still cold, no water was flowing around the rad so switching the fan on was pointless. The temp climbed to 107/8ish before levelling out. The fan basically ran all the time, regardless even driving at a steady 30mph. Wearing the fan our for no reason. There is no adjustment from a consumer point of view, so the swap to 82C stat pulls all the temps into line, I.e. the stat opens before the fan switches on, giving the cooling system chance to do its job.

Got to say, I didn't like bending the pedal either, but knew it was coming after doing the same with my previous car sigma car. Given all that the powder coat held up and the pedal didn't kink, and I didn't use a pipe bender, just force applied with a trolley handle. I didn't bend it on the car, it was removed wrapped to prevent paint scratches and bent repeatedly until the perfect fit and position was found.

The manual says bend the pedal to adjust the cable at the pedal end, then you can do you fine adjustment at the throttle body end. On my S3 duratec and sigma metric cars you have to bend the pedal a long way to take the slack out of the cable. That said the cable end fixings above look far better solution, I wonder if they would pass IVA ?

Think I would use clay to remove that overspray, Bilthamber stuff would be the clay of choice for me because the lube is water, and that cheap enough ;-) Good thing about clay is it won't damage the paint where you do want it.

Someone posted on here a few days ago the manufacture of the headlights for Caterham. They are much cheaper because you can get the lens only, and they don't have the "Caterham" logo on them, but had a £200 saving per side. I think they where HIGHSIDER JACKSON units.

It is still being recommended by one well know specialist, well it was a week ago.

Most of the time a google numbers off the part finds you all you need to know. For example you can just see 8h22-8101-aa on the cap on the Caterham Parts site (not for CSR). That leads to FORD : 1W138101AA FORD : 8H228101AA LAND ROVER : PCD000090 LAND ROVER : PCD500030

Yep that's it - I am 100% sure its not needed because there is no oil to seal in that area bell hosing. Its just part of the original parts design, and not needed on a Caterham. I must have caught it when I fitted the gearbox initially. Must be more careful next time. Many thanks guys Chris.

The seal is on the CRB slave cylinder, on the back (if you like) of this https://caterhamparts.co.uk/clutch-parts/2221-clutch-bearing-assembly-ford-r400.html. its not on the spacer. I have this spacer https://caterhamparts.co.uk/clutch-parts/4615-spacer-clutch-slave-cylinder-duratec-08-2010.html The seal must be redundant on the Caterham, the Type 9 gearbox just doesn't have a machined surface on the input shaft for the seal to run on, and holds its own oil. But as a precaution I have come up with a cunning plan, I have purchased an oil seal of the same size 26mm internal 42mm external, when it arrives I am going to take the garter spring from my £2 purchase and put it on my CRB's oil seal.

While my gearbox is out I noticed the oil seal on the back of the CRB has lost its spring round the circumference. Its the hydraulic concentric bearing (from a Mondeo V6). I had no clutch problems, or CRB problems in uses, and the car has only covered 1500 miles since new. I am not sure why the seal is even there, it’s not like there is any oils from either the gearbox or engine there, I assume the seal has a function in a mondeo, but not a Caterham. Is this seal needed in a Caterham? Can I ignore it and reuse the CRB.

I think the Apollo wheels have a different offset, because they don't bother with the spacers anymore. They are still in the manual, but not included in a 2015 kit.

I would sacrifice reliability for the 6sp, for me it’s so much better with it. My 5sp cars just didn’t feel as good, as electric to drive.

I had two 6 sped gearboxes from Caterham, one in a 40th anniversary from about that time, which was perfect for the 5 years I owned the car, My 2015 360R 6sp lasted 1300 miles before it needs a rebuild.

Are you presenting yourself? I did, and I went to Gillingham. I think the reputation isn't fair, yes they know the cars, so they know where they fail and where to look, but they also don't get bogged down with other areas on the car. Caterham South also know how Gillingham likes to see the car presented, and provided they don't miss anything in the PBC and you follow their instruction you should be fine. My tester started with the question "how do you like your tea?", he bent over backwards to try and pass my car, but we ran out of time, leaving me two minor things to fix before a retest (anything within a 6 month window). One of my minor faults was the steering rack boot rubbed on the bodywork hole at full lock. The holes needed enlarging something not mentioned in the build manual, also not spotted during PBC or flat floor setup. So should I blame Gillingham for spotting that. My other problem was the speedo liked to die at speeds above 30. Given my car was trailered to the test and not test driven I just didn't know I had that problem, but tried during the test to adjust the sensor with various level of success but not enough success to pass. So my vote would be Gillingham, and present the car yourself. Also I did my paperwork about this time last year, but my IVA test was January (just an FYI).

I found if you reserved the nylon liner it would stay in place as the column is put in. The other way round it would fall out very easy as the column is put in.

Thanks for the kind words guys. As any Caterham owner who has meet me knows I love working on Caterhams and enjoy helping where I can. I will gladly help any fellow owner where I can, especially the SIgma 150s because they got such bad press for such a simple issue to resolve. Just PM me, and arrange a time and place.

The locked ECU can be mapped, providing you have the code/software. That said I wouldn’t mind an unlocked ECU so I could make change myself.