ChrisC
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Everything posted by ChrisC
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Also they talk about using a 19mm spanner on the 3/4 bolt. Thats shameful in my book, although 3/4" is very close to 19mm, but at 1/2" the difference can damage the bolt/nut.
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The lightweight jack from clarke for me as well, no need for the extra lifting weight, it just adds weight to the jack you have to lift when moving it around while working on the car. Tools are something I have built up over years, and a lot depends on your standards. I.e. I won't use a metric spanner on an imperial bolt, and yes there are imperial bolts on a metric chassis. I even found a witworth fitting on the flexible rear brake lines supplied by CC a few years ago. If you genuinely have no tools, CC do a draper tool kit. I assume this will get you a fair way, but be prepared to add when needed.
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Firstly your anti rattle spring clip doesn't look like its sitting properly, Have a look here http://caterham420r.blogspot.co.uk/2015/11/build-day-15-frame-steering-rear-brakes.html When I recently fitted the Caterham branded rear calipers to my 360R I found it possible to position the inside pad so you could not get the caliper over the pads. This isn't a problem I have ever had before, so it stumped my for a few mins, then I repoistioned the pad and caliper fitted fine. Maybe you have managed to fit the caliper while the inside pad is not fitted properly.
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Opps its inlet retarded, must be getting old. memory gone. https://www.lotus7.club/forum/how-check-sigma-125-timing Hope this helps Chris,
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Sorry I dont know exact details, but one of the cam shafts (exhaust I think) is advanced about 5 degress of its Ford timing mark for improved power reasons. I remeber reading on here of a owner that had this problem before and ended up going to a Caterham specialist to reset the timming to Caterham spec to restore performance. If you have set it to the Ford factory timing it not going to cause damage, just not produce the same power. I will try and find a link
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Are you aware the Caterham 125 cam timing is not the same as the Ford original timing marks, even though its the standard cams that are installed. It means its not possible to use the factory cam timing marking or follow the ford manual (using the locking tool on the back of the cam).
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PS These calipers are a pain in the arse, for some reason the hex on the slider pin is smaller than before, which means as you fit the caliper onto the carrier the spanner (I have always used) gets jammed before the caliper is secure. I don't like taking angle grinders to perfectly good tools, so a special slim fit spanner was ordered to complete the job.
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They used to be remanufactured, until 2016. Now they are new, branded Caterham. They look identical to the Ford remanufactured unit to me apart from additonal clearance has been added to the back of the caplier so it dosn't touch the radius arm. If you look carefully at the first photo you can see the branding. https://caterhamparts.co.uk/calipers-pads-discs/6561-caliper-lh-rear-handbrake-2016.html
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So originally you had a Sigma CRB in a Sigma Bellhousing, now you have a Duratec Type CRB in a Sigma Bellhousing which has been modified to fit that CRB. So my Sigma didnt have a spaced behind the Sigma CRB, but my Duratec CRB has a spacer behind. Are you sure your CRB is not over extending? As for a replacement I think your going to have to google part numbers off the CRB you have fitted. But looks like you have done that already :)
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Ok - As I said my experiance is with a 2011 Sigma Type 9 5 speed, using this bellhousing https://caterhamparts.co.uk/bellhousings/3660-bellhousing-die-cast-sigma.html You can see the holes for the clutch connections pointing towards the gearbox face near the bump for the starter. If you used the Duratec style CRB the bleed nipple would be impossible to access (although obviously you would be able to get the braided hose down the hole) because it point in the wrong direction. The pastic CRB has the connection and bleed nipple in the correct direction for these holes. I have only seen these two bellhousing options, Duratec and Sigma Type 9, So I assume your Mazda box?
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I would love to have an up to date wiring diagram for my 360R. The wiring diagrams in the build manuals are nearly correct, but the connectors have changed and components like the MFU have been removed from the car (not the diagram) :(
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I am confused Sigma or Duratec
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I have that one on my 2015 Duratec 6 sp car. The plastic one I had on my 2011 Sigma 150, which had a 5 speed Type 9 box, not a Mazda box, had part number Fomoco (Ford Motor Company) 7G917A564AC You can tell if you have that one if the braded hose for the clutch goes into the bellhousing at the side (near the starter motor). The Duratec one you posted a link for has the hoses entering at the top of the bellhosuing. Obvously if your bellhousing for you Sigma isn't a CC part all bets are off.
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So from the Caterham site it’s £124. https://caterhamparts.co.uk/clutch-parts/3666-clutch-release-bearing-sigma.html My original part was a FTE unit in my 2011 car.
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How about removing the starter motor and seeing it from inside the bellhousing (before you remove the engine). You would need an Borescope, but it looks like you can get them these days for about £15, which use a smartphone app to view. Got to be worth a try before you pull the engine.
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Also look at the condition of the loom. I found when I purchased a car that had been converted to lower headlamp brackets the loom had been cut in a number of places, so I replaced the headlamp loom for about £5 per side from SVC.
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The problem in my view is the way its wired and the location of the connection to the loom. All the flex needed for the suspension is applied to the thin wire coming from the sensor. A connector located on the wheel sensor bracket with a lead between the bracket connector and the loom would mean the wiring breakdown would not kill a very expensive sensor, but a much cheaper lead. But still Caterham missed a trick, locate the wheel sensor inboard near the diff and there would been no need to have the wiring move with the suspension at all.
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The connection between slave and the braided hose is only a push fit with a clip, could it have become unclipped? Its not the same slave as the duratec cars, but if its failed its the same engine out result.
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That looks like some copper grease on the wire to me (maybe from a dirty finger or glove during build), more that a chafed wire. Hope you get it sorted.
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I would say easymap could help you with this, but indirectly. I would log the injection pulse and lambda, and see if its getting to 100% duty cycle, before full throttle / max speed. If it is then maybe fuel pressure is not enough to keep up with demand. I once used this to detect a fuel supply problem on a mates car, It would die for no reason. Eventually we logged it dying, and you could see it getting leaner and leaner (from the lambda value) but you could also see the fuel pulse getting longer and longer as the ECU tried to solve the lean problem. This indicated a fuel supply problem, all be it intermittent and at idle. Thankfully it was a simple inertia switch that fixed that one, but the ECU logging pointed us to the fuel system. Good luck.
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Got a left side calliper if you want, its was removed after 1 year because the other side was replaced under warranty by Caterham, it’s like new. PM if it’s something you need.
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Where does the factor plug the ACES shift light?
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It turns out that Lawrence, and his loverly Roadsport 150 SV, live less than 15 mins from me, so we meet up this evening for a bit of tuning and testing. So first a compliment, this is the best setup 150 I have ever seen, the only thing I found was the idle was a bit low (but only a tad). ‘The noise, well it’s exactly the noise I remember (and miss) from my 150. It may be harsher/ louder with the de-cat, but it’s nothing to worry about. It’s that old school Weber noise :-) Hope to see you on the next Essex meet / blat ;-) Chris
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On my 360R and on my previous 2011 Sigma 150 there are two positions for the pedals, not the three from the imperial car. To get a perfect throttle pedal a lot of bending of the pedal is needed, more than you need to get it to fit in the first place. When i get round to that task I will purchase a new throttle pedal, bend it, then get it powder coated before fitting. Its on my to do list but way down, but i did it with my 150 eventually.
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Also get you hands on a Syncrometer, your going to need one come service time anyway and make sure the balance is spot on. The number of 150s I have seen that are out of balance is shocking.