ChrisC

One of those glasses listed on eBay was £21, £2 more than a complete replacement from CC.

Given you didn't have a problem with the components before you started bleeding apart from the soft pedal, I assume it's a problem with the bleed. Are you still getting air out? Any local members you know have any pressure bleeders or vacuum bleeders. I use a bleeder that attaches to my airline, and finish off we a few manual pumps on the rear calipers. Even that takes a few attempts before all the air has gone.

My previous car has a wheel speed sensor which was a set and forget affair. My current 7 the sensor was a pain from build, it failed the first IVA with it not working above 30, even after being permitted time to try and adjust it and retry a few time. Finally after installing the earth mod and a few hours testing in the garage on axle stand using an oscilloscope, I managed to get a speedo working up to the IVA test speed of 70. But above 90 it would wiggle, bounce and die, until the speed is reduced again. So that's how its been until my last track day, where at some stage in a session it died for good, but I continued on. After the session I discovered the sensor has come lose and had been dragged around, damaging the threads making refitting the nuts a pain, and as it turned out damaged the sensor in some way. Once I had refitted the sensor, it would wiggle and bounce around at 30 and wiggle and die above 90. After fitting the new sensor the speedo is well, normal, somehow smoother than all my previous cars with the wheel speed sensor, but this could be just because I have been used to bouncing and wiggling for a while. The speedo is now like the Tin Top. CC have been crafty with this part, you can buy all the bits for about £55 including the mount, or the sensor on its own for £50. The mount on its own is £20, which is a rip off. You may be able to source the sensor for £30, but without the mount your not saving anything. The mount would be simple to manufacture, if you had the facilities, but as a one off its going to cost you more that CC are asking, so your best bet it the £55 with all the bits

Its no longer a distinct lamp, more of a faint glow from the plastic around the wire, but good enough to get the job done.

Just remember the timing used by Caterham is not necessarily the timing used by Fords, so you might not be able to use the locking tool at the back on the cams etc. I know this is the case for the 125, it's been discussed on here before. Not 100% sure about the 140 / 150 / 310 etc. The 125 used a standard ford cam with timing adjusted, the 140/150/310 us a different cam, so that might mean the timing marks are still relevant.

Replacing that sorted all my speed sensor problems (self inflicted). If you have speed sensor problems I can recommend the swap to the new sensor.

Lithium batteries are everywhere in our daily lives, most have protection to prevent damaging discharge level, like phone and laptop batteries, but the lightest of them all the lithium polymer or lipo used in radio controlled models has no discharge protection. They puff up and become very dangerous to charge if abused with discharge beyond the safe limit. I have see a few lipo fires and the aftermath of a lipo fire in a house, all not good. Just look on YouTube for lipo fires to see the type of damage a small battery can do. As for putting on in my car, well I would, providing it lion based and has protection circuits to prevent over or under charge, after all these batteries are the basis of EV cars at the moment.

I love these. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F171269222696.The quality is exceptional, and not that expensive either.

Another thing to check. i am going to look at a couple of new seven at club night this week. I will see how much play the outer pad has. If it’s not the same as mine time for a call to CC.

It’s still factory spec 360R so the line are sold. The anti rattle springs are fitted with the outer lugs sitting on the caliper body. I did a fair bit of web research on that, after finding the same photos. I found a ford workshop manual online which showed it that way, but it was only a line diagram so assume that’s ok. Any clue on what is acceptable float on the caliper and how I can measure it? One thing crossed my mind, maybe the new caliper isn’t self adjusting properly.

Hi All My 2015 360R had a rear calliper replaced under warranty due to leaks. The kit was originally supplied with reconditioned rear calipers but the replacement item was a new Caterham branded item. Problem is since it’s replacement my outside pad rattles. I have so far tried new pads (originals had done just over 2000 miles) and new anti rattle springs with no effect. I can see on the bottom of the anti rattle sprint the witness marks where the inside pads spring touches the anti rattle sprint, but no marks from the outside pad. It’s as if the anti rattle sprint is to short or the lug on the calliper that locates the anti rattle sprint has been cast to far back pulling the anti rattle spring off the outside pad. I can pull the anti rattle spring into the correct position to hold both pads but it won’t stay at that location. Any suggestions, apart from drive faster or wear ear plugs would be helpful? I do wear ear plug and I can hear it over them, and I have to drive at least 20 min (often more) to get to a decent road where it doesn’t matter any more.

My 2011 Sigma rev counter used to bounce a lot until I reseated the connection, pushing it firmly into the rev counter which resolved it. Worth a check all your connections are good.

My last order from Pro-Bolt for my 360R was for Air Filter, Pedal box cover and Plug cover, I reduced the length of the air box screws a little, and increased the length of a few of the pedal box cover screws to make it easier to fit. There are a few spares in the this list. ALUMINIUM DOME HEAD BOLT M5 X (0.8MM) X 20MM PK X 5 (for Pedel Box cover) ALUMINIUM DOME HEAD BOLT M5 X (0.8MM) X 12MM PACK X 5 (for Pedal Box cover) ALUMINIUM DOME HEAD BOLT M5 (0.8MM) X 25MM PK X 10 (for Air Filter) ALUMINIUM DOME HEAD BOLT M6 X (1.00MM) X 16MM PACK X 5. (for Plug Cover) Hope this helps

I think all my warranty claims took a couple of days to approve, once the part arrived before the confirmation email. Agree with trying to get it on the road, not running back and forth to CC,, obviously given the expense of my gearbox failure and the time involved the round trips to CC South was the least of my concerns.

I find it cheeky of CC to ask you to change the seal. The warranty is on the part supplied, that being a complete diff with seals installed. I think I would be taking the diff out as a complete unit and getting them to install the seal. I had a gearbox problem during IVA, they did not supply me with 3rd, 4th and a complete set of bulk rings, but I had to remove the gearbox and refit it. Also had shock and rear calliper failures under kit warranty, all removed and refitted by me.

Not that expensive from CC https://caterhamparts.co.uk/anti-roll-bars/3334-ball-droplink-anti-roll-bar.html

Perfect, thanks :-) Rob

Due to my speed sensor coming loose at a track day and becoming damaged, I have just received a replacement, however it’s obviously been redesigned since my 2011 and 2015 cars. It now has a plastic boss and single nut, and the sensor is much smaller diameter, my question is has anyone got a photo of the new sensor fitted? I wan’t to know if the boss or m8 nut is closest to the drive shaft ring, and if one or two m5 nuts are fitted and again at which end. I suspect you will no longer be able to see the light on the sensor, depending on the fitting order.

The hole for the mirrors are not drilled in the side screen, but the hole is drilled in the metal structure of the side screen, so its easy to do post IVA. If it was my car I would ask CC not to move the mirrors to the side screens post IVA.

Years ago, when I had a habit of fitting turbos to (proper) minis I holed a piston driving to the rolling road. The fuel return line was under sized at the first attempt which meant the fuel pressure was to high, causing over fueling everywhere, once that was sorted the drive to the rolling road killed a piston because it ran lean :-(. It also melted the plugs.

LEB K91 L

Yep these https://caterhamparts.co.uk/other/3665-engine-upgrade-kit-r300-175bhp-to-195bhp.html

In comparison to pre 2015 black plastic plenum, the distortion is almost none ;-) Apparently the cast plenum can suffer with heat soaks, seems there is no perfect solution.

Mine squeals from the airbox, on light throttle around 2000 rpm. The plenum distortion is much better with the post 2015 plenum, there is almost none.

Depends. My tacho on mine always reads 1000 rpm, but the laptop via Easymap is showing 900 rpm. Mine also increased its idle speed over the first 200 miles, and I had to adjust it down a couple of time to bring it back down. I haven't had to adjust it since. There is an adjustment bolt on the throttle body, don't forget to remove any slack from the throttle cable and ensure you can get full throttle (without the engine running) to complete the job.