ChrisC

I am 100% sure I could do a better job, problem is the oil leak, which the company that fitted the dry sump has already had one attempt to stop, but it still continues. So it’s got to go back to them, but I will use your photos for how it should’ve been done.

Opps forgot to say thank you Mike for the photos.

The shoulder bolts where included, but have since gone missing, not fitted or returned. :-( What about the gap, I assume fitted correctly there isn’t as much as I have? I still think it’s all got to be redone again anyway.

Hi All I am looking for some example photos of help the 420R plastic wedge sump protection should be fitted. I suspect mine is fitted incorrectly, as a result of a poorly fitted dry sump, which has leaked oil from the rear near the flywheel since fitting. Photos from a kit or a recent factory build with the same spec would be prefect. So here is my sump protection. The bolt from the bell housing into the protection block (marked with the red arrow) does not align with the threaded. whole in the plastic block. There are no fixings through the hole on the bottom (blue arrow), Green arrow shows the only set screws fixings fitted. Orange arrow shows a gap between the sump and the protection. Yellow arrow the oil. Does this look right? Can you confirm blue arrow holes don't have fixings, and a bolt through from the bell housing, and do you have the orange gap? Chris.

I remember that bit of my build. I used a right angle air drill. I purchased it a few years ago when i needed to drill out a seat cap head bolt from under the car, been a very useful tool since.

Obvious stuff first, is it under warranty? If it is then get CC to look at it. If not, and you can reproduce the problem at will (on the right road ), then try and find someone with the MBE lead and see what the ECU thinks its doing. It wont give you an error code, but with the data logger, you should be able to tell what the problem is from the data captured. So in the example above you would see the battery voltage drop, or even the ECU reset count increase. I diagnosed a friends car which stalled for no reason at random times, we eventually captured the data needed and could see the injection pulse increasing and increasing, with the lambda getting leaner and leaner, as if it was running out of fuel, caused by the faulty inertia switch. Final option take your car to Track n Road in Rainham Essex, they have the Caterham software so can deal with your locked ECU. According to reviews on here you won't regret the result.

Just an FYI, CC now fit new calipers, not remanufactured. Obviously they are based on a copy of the Ford unit, but they also have the back of the caliper machined for clearance with the radius arm. Worth £130 a side, i.e. double Big Redd? I don't know.

Yep - had the misfortune to need a rebuild of my 6sp last year under warranty, where he recommended MTL, so that was Jan 2018 info.

Redline MTL recommended to me by Road and Race.

If you have a 12v built into a fuse cover under the dash (as per later Caterham models) its permanently live, so you can plug a Ctex directly into that socket, no additional cable required. I assume your car has a 12v socket (based on your profile picture) I use a CTEK 56-870

For IVA in 2017 I had to remove my quick release column and wheel and fit a Euro spec fixed column and wheel. It was a simple swap, only problem was you have to remove the top bush if you are removing a column with a steering column.

I had a new 6 speed supplied with my kit, which was always difficult to get into 2nd when cold, and would lock you out of all gears if you attempted an up change at 7.5 rpm, but was fine at lower rpm. After a few seconds you will then be able to select a gear as normal. I lived with the could not get 2nd when cold, and didn't realise I had a problem until it was run in, so it wasn't until the car was 6 months before the gearbox was rebuilt under warranty. When it was rebuilt 3rd gear was replaced and all bulk rings where replaced, its been fine since.

Can the pump/sender unit be fitted in a different orientations to the tank, i.e. if the sender arm isn't pointing towards the front of the car, then it would be effected by the angled shape of the tank bottom. In the pointing forward direction it would get the most movement potential in the tank. Obviously this would only applied if the pump/sender can rotate as the securing ring is tightened.

Based on you original post, you sound like you have three problems runs rough until warm stalling at each traffic light stop lack of power I can't help with the lack of power, your going to need to see if you actual have a lack of power or have just got used to the R400. There was a thread on here not so long ago about a R400D lacking top speed, which I assume is the same thing, which was resolved with a trip to Track N Road rolling road. They have the Caterham Software, so can change the values/map in the locked MBE and apparently transformed the car for the owner. Without that facility I guess the only option is a replacement unlocked MBE, if you find a lack of power, or a trip to the UK :-( I found with my 360R stalling and rough running until warm was cured with an adjustment to the throttle body, and not the way you would expect. I ended up closing the throttle body (from its original position) using the throttle stop adjustment on the body. I am no expert, but I suspect the map is driven more by manifold pressure than TPS position at idle, given the lack of adjustment in the TPS. Closing the throttle butterfly at idle increased the manifold vacuum (you can see that with Easymap), but the strange thing was this improved the idle without any drop off in revs. Once I discovered this, I also did it to my friends car that had the inertia switch problem, it also made the idle much smother and more consistent. In an attempt to go one further I replaced all the rubber bungs and blanking plugs on my plenum, the originals where just simple rubber, with much more substantial silicon items. This didn't make any difference, but they didn't flex as much. Worth a check if you have any perished rubber blanking plugs. Finally has you car got a battery isolator? If not then you will have to disconnect the battery to reset your MBE. The MBE is permanently powered on the two duratec cars I have looked at. Resetting the MBE has never cured anything for me, but its worth a try.

The car I worked on had it on the other side, that was a 2010, so worth a check. The only ex-racer I have owned had the switched moved inside the car. If you don’t have an inertia switch I would fit one, on safety grounds once you have it sorted ;-)

Hi Peter I don’t remember a fuel pressure sensor on the two duratec cars I have worked on with Easymap. One had a fuel related problem which would cause it to die without warning. Eventually Easymap captured real time information showing a lean mixture, and an increased injector duty cycle. We eventually tracked that to the inertia switch, killing the power to the fuel pump. That diagnosis would have been so much easier with a fuel pressure sensor, hence the reason I can’t remember seeing one. You could test if one is present by connecting Easymap, engine running, pull the plug on the inertia switch and seeing if your fuel pressure drops, if it does not, then you know the fuel pressure sensor is running on a default setting not an actual reading. Chris.

Try https://workshop-manuals.com/ford/mondeo_2007.5_02.2007/mechanical_repairs/3_powertrain/303_engine/303-03b_engine_cooling_2.0l_duratec-he_(mi4)-2.3l_duratec-he_(mi4)/description_and_operation/diagnosis_and_testing/general_procedures/removal_and_installation/coolant_pump/ Hope this helps

I think that Metric bolt is wrong, let me check. Edit - Sorry my mistake, I was think of the A frame, to Dedion tube, which is imperial, on metric cars.

The upper diff bolt (the long one) in my S3 metric kit was a imperial 1/2” x 11” therefore it’s a 3/4 socket you need

Anyone ever tried this with a BMW diff? 120d automatic is a 3.15, maybe better than the 3.64 for a 6 speed.

Yep - that's how the pads where fitted, and the replacement caliper in the first place. But each time after 100 miles or so, the handbrake slackens off and the pad rattle. Since its a replacement part supplied in January by CC, I think its time for a phone call.

I think its the auto adjuster not working on the off side. I adjusted my handbrake to three clicks as the maximum I could pull, two weeks ago, I have done a couple of hundred miles, now I can pull five clicks. I suspect this is the cause of the pad being loose. Going to check tonight if the pad closet to the piston is also loose.

Yes I know the 150 can be problematic, I have seen a few examples now and only one had balanced throttle bodies, so poor understanding of how to setup the 150 doesn't helps it cause. BUT I suspect the 150 was dropped because CC could obtain the same power (and charge the same money) with the 140 setup and retain the stock plenum, thus reducing the cost to them. The 150 kit over states the actual headline hp produced, so in reality the 140 and 150 are much the same product, but the 150 sounds better.

I had a seat runner rivnut spin, I found the easiest why to remove the bolt / runner was to drill it out, but had to buy a decent drill bit to get through the bolt head.

Looks like CC are listening (at a price) http://caterhamparts.co.uk/oil-system/6968-dipstick-duratec-dry-sump-tank.html