ChrisC

It's more a question if anyone has presented a car with the trackday roll bar fitted recently and had problems. There was talk in the club forum not so long ago about needing a road bar to pass IVA, but this all depends on the tester I guess.

Does the trackday roll bar pass IVA? I thought the X might obscure the rear view mirror to much for a pass. Maybe someone can advise.

Comma EP75w80 Plus Mineral, but was recommended MTL (as above) last year by Phil at Road and Race, after a rebuild.

I put the locking nut closest to the serrated disc, if the nut comes loose at the wire end it won't go anywhere ;-). I did find it difficult to adjust the sensor in the adaptor once the adaptor was tight, I assume its because it misshapes the tread just a little bit. So tighten the adaptor to the bracket last. Its a little more of a pain in the arse than the old design but works way better.

Simple for me - I posted the question when I got my new wheel speed sensor, so I knew a good answer had been posted.

Have you got the adaptor https://caterhamparts.co.uk/senders/6707-wheel-speed-sensor-kit.html?search_query=wheel+speed&results=237 or https://caterhamparts.co.uk/senders/6706-insulating-top-hat-wheel-speed.html and look here for fitting https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/2017-speed-sensor-fitting

This is back to my comments on the stock map / setup / ECU used by CC thread. CC need an ECU that will work with all component tolerances involved, but the ECU used does not learn these components, so as a compromise they use a combination of manifold vacuum and throttle position determine the need for the engine to idle. If the throttle position is approximately closed and a vacuum is being pulled in the manifold idle is assumed. This leads to a hesitation around idle part / light throttle openings, making it east to stall or have hesitation, i.e. idle is assumed incorrectly by the ECU. Giving the ECU clear instruction (i.e. use more throttle) and all is fine, the ECU knows what to do. I did all my research on yellow Blatchat for my 150 before it was upgraded, and read the story where CC abandoned this setup for the 150 Sigma in favor of a pure throttle pot voltage setup, but this means there is only one setup that works (well). I have had a fair few fellow members come to me to setup Sigma 150's, all have been amazed by the result. The advantage the 150 Sigma has is the throttle pot has adjustment, sadly the 360/420 has no adjustment in this component. So CC can't use this where the components have no adjustment, only a small percentage would work well, and the rest would have running problems so they stick with the compromised setup, which is fine. There are plenty of Duratec owners who have posted that Track and Road have transformed the drivability of their cars without the need for any ECU upgrade. I understand why other rolling roads can't offer this service because of the locked ECU, meaning they are at a disadvantage here. Personally I will have this done in the near future, but I have more pressing issues to resolve first. I have observed the hesitation on Easymap and as much as possible reduced it on my car, but its still there to a lesser extent. But a word of caution, if you have it done the setup is specific to the components you have fitted, change a faulty throttle position sensor will need the map adjusting again.

Also there is a way to make a 420 more urgent and have less hesitation. Get the map converted from manifold pressure to throttle position sensor and have the map custom tuned at the same time. It can only be done using the locked Caterham ECU by a company with the software/keys, i.e. Track and Road, or a using replacement unlocked ECU. Again this is something that has to wait for your warranty period to expire

I think your right to try before you buy, I had a 150 Sigma with a 5 speed before my current 420R 6 speed, however it was built as a 360R 6 speed kit. Instantly I missing the 150 Sigma character, the noise from the TBs was amazing and the car felt more balanced. The 360R engine felt bigger/heavier had more vibration, and yet some how lacked character. I spent plenty of time tracking down my cars vibrations, and miles also made the experience smoother, but there was still this something lacking. For me the upgrade to the 420R has replaced most of that character, but I would say not to the same level as the 150 Sigma engines character. I assume this is the difference between a stock and upgraded cams. For me the gearbox thing was easy, my first Caterham was a 6 speed, and I missed it. To add more character to a 420R what about the Roller Barrel TB upgrade, you might struggle to find one to test drive, however there are more R400D's out there with this upgrade, so a test drive or ride form a fellow member might be possible. If I was making your decision it would be more about build or upgrade? I would not build a 310 and then upgrade it, if I already owned a perfectly good 310. Upgrading a new build would void your warranty (unless CC approved upgrades) so you would be stuck for 2 years post registration before you could upgrade a 310. Only the 270, 360 and 420 provide an official upgrade path which can be done during the warranty period. I had significant issues with unrelated components during my warranty period, so I wouldn't dismiss this lightly. If your heart is not set on building, then Premier Power would be my next phone call. For me building was the itch I needed to scratch.

I don’t think there is anything wrong with the ECU or the map that CC provide, it’s just a one size fits all (nearly) without any learning features approach. You can’t compare that to the custom work Premier Power produces, or getting a custom map done at Road and Race using the original ECU.

The adjustment I have did on a couple of cars now, didn’t effect the warm running, but basically helps the ECU know when to idle, by increasing the vacuum. On my car I did try to see how I far I could go, and eventually the throttle is so closed the idle can’t be maintained. It’s only a single screw so you might as well have a play, just remember where the original position is, and disconnect the battery as you do it.

I think it’s normal behaviour for a lot of the current Caterham models, but I don’t think it’s by design. From what I can tell Caterham use manifold pressure over throttle position sensor (TPS) to maintain idle because the ECU does not learn TPS position, which for the most part works, and all cars run using one setting. However I have found sometimes it’s not prefect and the odd tweak can really help, the strange thing is closing the throttle slightly and drawing more vacuum helped the ECU detect idle easier on the two cars I have had with this problem. However make sure your ECU isn’t powered when you make throttle position changes, easy to do if you have an isolator fitted, if not you will need to disconnect the battery each time because the ECU is permanently powered.

I found if you put the white plastic bush one way round it would easily be pushed through the bush, but put it the other way round it stays in position while the column is inserted. Unfortunately it’s trial and error to find out which way.

I think Nextbase is the market leader because they are available from Halfords. I prefer my dash cams to be a inconspicuous device, one you can fit and forget its there. I have been using BlackVue for a few years and its been perfect in the regard, with a few tweaks in the settings using the app my dash cam makes no sound and only has one power light. The biggest trick is making sure the sd card is the correct specification. You need a card that's fast enough, and robust enough for the number of times its overwritten. Basically some cards are overwritten every 4 hours of driving in a dash cam, if you compare that to digital camera use, where it might take months before the card is full you can see why a cheap card is not going to cut the mustard. Look for a class 10 MLC SD card (not TLC) and you should be fine.

They are a massive pain in the a**s, in reality it’s only possible before the upper suspension arms are fitted, obviously you only learn that lesson after its to late. I put top hat grommets in, CC didn’t like it, but it passed IVA.

That's already been posted in correspondence with CC on the other thread. The new rad/oil cooler combination is more efficient than the old design, and hence the reason for the swap. Has anyone had overheating problems with their 420R / R400D? Normally I read about uses blanking off the oil coolers over winter, but I might have missed something, maybe a problem in hotter climates?

Oh and just to say I have a wet sump, used but no damage or scratches for sale, which will offset the costs a little.

At the moment the dry sump upgrade is proving to be problematic, but I have not doubt it will be resolved. Its not as if the parts begin used are unproven. I actual think the dry sump is an essential part of the upgrade, given how low the wet sump (see the Monkey video). I have also had the flat floor adjusted for this and the stance is so much better. As for the additional parts, well, the picture of the kits on the parts website didn't show them, so I had assumed they wouldn't be fitted, but the information was a bit difficult to extract from them at the time. It seems there aren't a lot of cars upgraded from 360R to 420R spec (at the moment), given it cost £2000 more than doing the same at purchase time. However I think upgrading my car was cheaper than selling and trying to buy an equivalent spec car. I actually like the water/oil cooler idea, apparently they also have the benefit of warming the oil faster, so it's loss is not without sadness, however I might be able to see/fill the screen wash bottle now ;-) Obviously the cams are then thing that's adding the character that was missing from my 360R, but I actually wanted the dry sump upgrade first, because I want to use ZZRs during track days, and started to get worried about oil supply. I figured, and this is how it was sold to SWMBO, adding a dry sump to a 360R would not add value to the car, where as converting it to a official 420R will add value, offsetting the cost should I sell it. As you can tell I am glad I did, because its added an X factor.

Hi Simon At the moment that’s a bit of a loaded question. My car has a persistent oil leak, which has rather spoiled the last few driving days before the salt came, and the SORN was applied. My comments are based on the assumption that this will be fixed and I have no reason to assume otherwise. Caterham sell two kits which officially turn a 360R into a 420R and they change their records, the badges and stamp the service records, however there are a couple of additional items you might like to consider if your doing the upgrade. First is sump protection, the plastic wedge is the correct spec for a 420, but a cheaper R500 version is also available. Next is the oil filter housing, replacing the oil water unit cooler, it seems to me the 420R oil is over cooled, and having two oil coolers has to be over kill. Finally the crank case breather is blanked on the 420, but they just cap the original plastic breather during the upgrade, this was one of the areas my car leaked from. If you do all that the only difference will be a digit in the VIN code. So the burning question, is it worth it. For me I knew I had made the correct decision as soon as the engine started. It’s difficult to explain unless you have had old school cars which have had cams changed. There is a urgency/aggression even at idle that just isn't there with normal product car engines. Don’t get me wrong I would not want it in my tin top, but in the Caterham it just feels right. The power is definitely a step up, I found myself thinking that’s fast, then realising I wasn’t flat. Using it to the fullest is not going to happen that often, and I am looking forward to a set of ZZRs on my next track days. Don’t get me wrong the 360R is great, but the engine does last a little character. hope this helps Chris

Yep should about what mine does. So looks like Sigmas should also be including as well. I will add mine only does it when parked up for a couple of days.

My 360R suffered a minor persistent leak from the expansion tank connection to the T piece hose. It was only a few drips but was very annoying. The problem was the difference is size between the T piece, which was 19mm and the expansion tank at 15mm, the 19mm silicon hose just would not seal on the expansion tank. I solved that it a straight silicon reducer 13mm to 19mm, so the hose was snug on the expansion tank, almost didn't need a hose clamp. Recently I had my 360R upgraded to a 420R, which relocates the expansion tank, and guess what, the leak returned, problem is there is no space for a straight reducer this time. So after a lot of searching I have found a solution. A 13mm to 19mm 135 degree reducer from do88 https://www.do88.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=1272_1285_1287_1366&products_id=9987&osCsid=34e994116b6c21d0edfe42238b5dc6f2 So if you have this annoying problem, try one of these. I hope it helps Chris.

Don't put that in your google search The steering rack is lower on older cars, which if raised reduces bump steer. CC sells spacers to help with this. Later cars have steering rack clams which are thicker at the bottom to raise the steering rack. Its one of the setup tweaks owners do. Suspension and setup is a real dark art, and well worth investigating little quick wins if you have the time.

Also there are other factors like geometry and tyres in include your comparison. I agree get the front end off the ground and check from lock to lock to see how it feels. If it's binding while off the ground my diagnostic method would be to start disconnecting bit by bit until is free again.

Thanks, come to think of it the bolts above are through the bell housing into the sump, so you are 100% right.

This is my concern - I have one of these as well, and there is just no way it would fit my car. The sump is to low, covering the bolt holes in the bell housing, preventing the protection (either version) from being fitted properly. Given the wet sump did line up with the bell housing, and had all bolts fitted, I am assuming my bell housing is ok, therefore I suspect the dry sump fitting is the problem (just not sure how) and this is the reason for my oil leak also from the rear of the sump.