ChrisC

Good work CC

Ops Sorry, thought the Odysset PC680 was a Lithium, but agree is an Lead AGM.   So CTEK MX5 would be my choice. 

sorted - thanks

Had a quick look a the Aldi charger, photo shows a model number MD18559, which reading the documentation does not have any mention of Lithium batteries or even AGM batteries (which it's connected to in the photo).

I am note sure how stable the Odessy PC6800 is that's fitted to the 620S, but I am very cautious with lithium batteries after my RC model experiences with lithium polymer batteries.     If you charge then incorrectly, abuse them via pressure, rupture or even deep discharge, the resulting fire is really difficult to put out.  I have read stories of RC model destroying garages, and causing house fires when batteries are charged incorrectly, and there are plenty of YouTube footage to back this up.   These problems aren't limited to RC models, its just they have been using them for a long time now, Samsung phones and Richard Hamonds Rimac crash springs to mind.   So I wouldn't use a charger that isn't Lithium compatible on a Lithium battery, after all Odessy publish loads of information about how to charge and that rates are safe.   

It's your call obviously. 

Obviously a battery isolator is the best solution,  isolate the battery between use.  Or maybe this https://www.ctek.com/products/vehicle/lithium-xs

Take the powder coat off in the cup with a dremel, and then pack it the grease, or try to reduce the size of the ball.   The balls wear anyway, so removing the powder coat makes fitting the next set easy, and the grease stop any rust issues.  It’s all kept clean with the rubber boot.

Yes good point Jim, fitting the ARB with the original rad fitted it tight, and this looks even closer.  Makes my hex bolt idea even more important.

If that was my car, I would prefer to fit the new drop bracket to the original chassis rad bracket with a hex bolt and loc nut, instead of a cap head bolt.  There is no way you could remove the bracket without removing the radiator first with this solution using a cap head bolt.  Switching to a hex bolt you could easily remove the rad without removing the bobins.   

Sorry not yet - guess early next week

There is one advantage to the CC supplied caliper, the back has been machined to give more clearance to the radius arm, but is that worth twice the price. 

Operating the foot brake adjusts the calipers then adjusting the handbrake, plenty of post on here about that process.  I think the calipers doesn’t adjust properly if done the other way round.

Have the bleed the brakes?  Don’t pull the handbrake until you have.  If you have, wind the calipers back and start again.  Once bleed, and pressed hard an few times to adjust the calipers/pads.  Then fit and adjust the cable, once adjusted your find the cable will be a bit more balanced left and right and easier to position.

I fitted the IVA trim before fitting the wings

As far as I am aware later models have a white connector, near the rev counter, tire wrapped into the loom for the factory Aces shift light.   A clean solution would be to use this connector.    Not got access to my car at the moment, but will try and get a photo when its back. 

At 4 years old your caliper would have been a reconditioned Ford Sierra item.  You have two choices, find or have your caliper reconditioned, or track down some new units which CC now supply.  The CC price for a single caliper is about the same price you can get a pair.

One of my original reconditioned caliper didn’t last one year before it was replaced with a new unit, however the pads rattled in the new caliper, so be warned if you fit a new caliper adjust the springs for a quiet drive.

I had the CC lightweight flywheel on my Sigma150.  No problem in traffic, and pulled clean in any of the 5 gears from 1100 rpm.

As Stu said Just do it

The problem I found is a twist the leveller introduces makes getting the gearbox into the chassis more difficult, hence my third ratchet strap to level it across the engine.    The twist is introduced because the lifting eyelets are diagonal across the block, i guess that's because they are designed for transverse mounting. 

If you have a modine (oil / water) oil cooler attached to the oil filter, I didn't remove the hose off the oil cooler end, but I did disconnect the other end.   If you have a wet sump, then the engine oil does not need to be drained, only the gearbox oil if you don't have a bung

So from the pictures, 30P173B looks like the RH side, they have also updated the description to ‘Headlamp Bracket RH’. 

I remove alternator and plenum, but leave the starter and oil filter in place

I kept my kits picking sheet, which listed all the parts no’s supplied.   Have you still got that list? 

I removed mine with a engine hoist leveler, makes the process very easy, but I did fine the lifting eyes being off set on the block causes the engine to twist as the angle is increased.    To resolve that I leave left hand side engine mount on the block (not exhaust side), and use a small ratchet strip from the mount to the hoist to keep the engine from twisting.

A question for the "splitters"  when you put the engine back in do you do it joined to the gearbox?    

I assume this will be your first Caterham, because all Caterhams I have owned has always needed regular trips to the paint shop for paint repairs.  Paint is a consumable item on a seven, even with paint protection.  If the stone chips don’t get you the star cracks do.  My rear wings will be painted this year (my car was registered in March 2017) after a couple of star cracks are spoiling the look, the interesting thing is TSK (who painted my car originally) charges less to refresh a rear wheel arch than it costs to have paint protection applied, so why bother.   You just can’t get hung up on paint or your never use the car.  

As for quality I don’t think anything has changed recently, it’s a kit car and components can fail, but is that Caterham’s fault.  My car has had a number of component failures, all resolved under warranty.   All I see is quality improvements like the reduction of remanufactured parts, replacing then with new alternatives in recent years.

I used that last oil change.

Currently CC fit a Fram PH2874 oil filter, so http://www.oilfilter-crossreference.com/convert/Fram/PH2874 lists some alternatives 

I use the CC recommend 5W50 oil, but Millers 5W50 XFS is getting difficult to get, so I may switch to Motul Sport 5W50 next oil change from Opie.  

Hi 420R 

I think you shouldn't worry about the manual, given the complexity of what they are trying to archive in a single document (either style) with ever changing specifications its actually not bad.  It gets you close, and as already mentioned there is plenty of support, Caterham themselves, blogs and blatchat all are fantastic sources of information.

The real question you need to ask yourself is how practical are you?   I don't think you need to be a mechanic, or have years of experience working on cars to build a Caterham, but you must at least know your way around basic hand tools, and be happy to use them on cars, or find someone who does, and is prepared to help.   Better still get in touch with the local club meet,  there is always someone, like me, that loves working on Caterhams, and has all the tools/experience you could possibly need, and is willing to help for little more than tea and biscuits (when needed).   Given the level of support available your confidence to complete the build wont be limited to the quality of the manual. 

Chris.