ChrisC

These documents aren't great, the VIN is altered on the invoice and the word Component looks corrected on the build sheet. It looks fishy. Have you got the amateur build confirmation certificate. If no I think I would ask Caterham for a letter on headed paper. Good luck.

Mine leaked after two and a half years, my solution was to convert back the pre 2018 spec. It was used for 10 year previous without requiring a £700+ radiator replacement every 6 months (as I know some have had). The vibration mounts are significantly large. The top hose isn't stressed. The cooling fan doesn't touch the rad or the grill. The radiator itself is more than half the price of the post 2018 spec. But it's a more expensive route for the initial conversation.

I know of two recent MBE ECUs where the coil driver failed. If you haven't already, it's worth moving the coil to see if the problem moves with the coil.

My 420 had no noise problems at Bedford, side exit with or without cat, standard plenum and airbox.

I remember my first Caterham, a 40th Anniversary with a VX XE on DCOEs with a 6 Speed and a Raceco. Static noise was never a problem but drive by always caused problems. There were so many factors beyond the car itself the most memorable one was humidity. If it was a cold misty morning there was no point going out for a track session, I knew I was going to be black flagged. Waiting until the day warmed up was the only option. Don't think I can give a number, but I will "play my cards right" and say higher than your static.

Thank you

Polishing aluminium is an art, you need a combination of heat pressure and speed to be right for a good result. Unfortunately I am still learning and have made mistakes including adding swirls where I have over done the speed. The dual head polisher is called a cyclone, that may help your Google searches. I prefer the rotary over the DA, it get the heat into the process which the DA can't. If I was polishing paint it would be DA all the way.

In your situation I would follow Ford Australia's recommendation for coolant in a Duratec engine.

I believe Team Leos is in Suffolk, near the Essex boarder. They will be able to sort the suspension and also find the reason for the running issue.

Found it /guides/avon-tyre-information

Best advice I have ever seen was published by Avon, I am sure someone will post a link faster than I can find it.

Could the tin can driveshafts have not been refurbished?

They are captive, I have a new tray minus top bar, you can have if you cover postage.

I am going for some new retro Yokohama A008s, for my SuperSprint on 15", they are also available in 195/60R14. Re released in 2019 they are not going to be the best in the wet, but they are going to look the part on a 90s car. Although I am a fan of ZZRs and R888R etc, they just look wrong to my eye on older cars. These grip levels are for modern track focused cars.

I sent mine to Arch, they re-powder coat and replace all the bushes. They also crack test and true the ends of the dedion tube if your going to include that.

About to make a similar decision. I recently purchased a 1993 1700 SuperSprint with 6000 miles mostly in the 90s and early 00s with no miles since 2008. It on its original Goodyear NCT 5000 15" tyres. I looked at the TR1s and the NS2R and all seem wrong for the car, almost to modern. Then I discovered Yokohama where remaking modern A008s, which are a period tyre (stopped production in 1995) in the correct size. There isn't much on blatchat about these tyres apart from comments when they had already been disconnected. I am choosing them because of their period look and relatively higher grip than the original Goodyears.

I have seen the Tacho read incorrectly before, it was a US kit builder with a 360R. That was solved by correcting the dip switches on the Tacho. In that case the Tacho was under reading. OBD is present on on some models, EU spec cars and UK SuperSport 1600 example, but I haven't seen it on 420R. Your speedo flicker will depend on the age, either pre 2016 where the sensor is a little unreliable, or post 2016 where the sensor needs to run closer to the trigger wheel than the previous version. Both sound simple DIY fixes, but if Team Leo's is near maybe drop it into them for assistance.

Crank sensor connection was your no start, you need to trace the wire and make sure it's not physically damaged near the starter.

Having suffered catastrophic timing failure (20 miles after an engine builder forgot to torque a Duratec crank main pulley), I suspect you would have noticed. The sudden bang and then the lack of noise, and assumed you would have mentioned it on the initial post. Just remember the ECU effect, if a timing light isn't triggering and therefore you have no spark doesn't mean you have an ignition problem. The ECU decides to run the engine, by controlling the ignition and fuel.

I would have thought the ECU will spark a pair of plugs from the coil pack using a switched neutral, not a switched live, so you would see 12v all the time. You need to know if the ECU is trying to start the engine or not. Without that information loading the parts cannon gets very expensive. Is there anyone local to you that can help, and has EasyMap?

It's a same your not closer because it sounds an interesting problem. Your MOT emissions I suspect are caused by a all to common lambda sensor failure. It's happened before and will happen again, but I don't suspect it's the reason for the no start. Can you check the fuses, unrelated shorts on seemingly unrelated circuits have caused no starts in the past. Example, speed sensor failure (also common) and indicator earth problems (that one is even on video). What is interesting is you say the plugs are wet. Normally fuel and spark are not triggered by the ECU if it's not happy to run. I work on a Sigma that died on track, months after the last mechanic trapped the crank position sensor wire between the starter and the block. This car didn't spark or fire the injectors because it couldn't see the crank position sensor feed. So with wet plugs I am assuming the ECU is happy, which makes me think about checking the wiring to the coil pack. The coil pack is less likely because it will normally fail for just two cylinders. Ultimately I think your going to need the assistance of someone with the Easymap lead to learn what's going on. But check your fuses first ;-)

Not sure you can compare routing of the connections between an SV and S3, the airbox is a different part.

They are both the same but and you need two. The plastic insert can be put round the "wrong" way, not that it alters the functionality, but makes it easy to push into the bracket shown during install, and making it impossible to remove without removing the bush.

I have the same dampers on my 93, although they have only covered 6800 miles. Can I ask how you measured the spring rates, because my new to me car has been sitting a long time.

Did you also hit it with the rear? If you did it might be worth checking the dedion tube for cracking.