ChrisC

Well done

It doesn’t need remapping. If it’s dies as you pull away get it back to CC so they can fix it. It well documented that the standard map uses manifold pressure over throttle position to determine the need to idle. My 360R had similar flat spot and since I have easymap I connected it up to see what was happening. I made my car 100% more drivable by increasing the vacuum pulled at idle. I did this by slightly closing the throttle body at idle, and improving the rubber bungs used to cover the unused manifold holes (although I don’t think that did much). The other must, if you don’t have an isolator for the battery is to disconnect the battery before any adjustment, the ECU is permanently powered, so need a power off reset to make the adjustment work. if you do decide to remap, get the map changed to throttle position from manifold pressure, and your flat spot will be gone.

Yep, your only ever going to use half of them but at £22 it's not a big outlay to do it right. Just hope their isn't to much damage to the bolts/nut from using metric tools.

I would look for a combination A/F spanner set, not just ring. On amazon looks like you can get a Draper set for £22 1/4 all the way to 7/8. The only specialist A/F tool you need these days on a Metric chassis is a deep thin wall 3/4 socket for the A-Frame to Dedion bolts nut.

There are some seemingly unrelated fuses that can cause a non starter. I remember a video of Daniel French's first break down in his R500, which was caused by an indicator short, killing a fuse, which caused the engine to die. Not sure how the indicators are connected, but they are. After watching this video I swapped all of my fuses to the LED type that light up when they blown. Personally I would want all the mechanical components in place before starting, but I suppose if the gearbox has oil it should be ok.

The 150 Sigma in its final UK spec left the MAP sensor open to the atmosphere with the hole facing upwards. I am not sure a direct hit with water from standing outside would be good for it, but only Easymap could tell you if its working or not. It you have a 150 Sigma and the MAP sensor is open to the atmosphere with the hole facing upwards, do yourself a favor and fit a small piece of rubber hose and bend it over to face the ground, to prevent water/rain damage.

I had a similar experience with an ex academy car, which had the side impact protection removed. The wrong number of spacing washer and a over long bolt caused the A frame to snap, thankfully at low speed and within 100 yards of my house. If it was my car I would check the following 1, With the handbrake on get someone to rock the car with the roll bar while you check each joint and bush of the suspension (both front and rear). Try and feel for excess play, movement that should not be there. If you detect any and are not sure post a youtube link here. For example this is a dedion bush that needs replacing 2, Check the diff bolts, and spanner check all the suspension (front and rear). Remember even a metric car is a mix of metric and imperial sizes 3, Check for cracks in the dedion tube especially around the rear shock mounting points, and A Frame cracks. 4, Balance and check the tyres, they could have a flat spot from sitting to long, they could be old, cracked side walls. Check the wear pattern for signs of the problem. I can't help thinking a prop shaft doesn't go out of balance without some additional factor, so short of checking the joint have been greased recently (although my 2017 prop has no grease nipples) I would assume that's not the problem, unless a visual inspection reviles some damage. You could also check how central your gearbox mount is to help the prop run as true as possible (assuming its not a Mazda gearbox). Beyond that I would seek professional help.

If you look at the Ikea style manual you can get all the bolt sizes and grades. I found it difficult to locally source 10.9 grade stuff, only having 8.8 on the shelf so had to wait a few days. Or PM me and I can send you a PDF of any bolt pack from my 2015 metric car.

John we all know whats going on here

Yer I remove the cat to remove an old lambda sensor in case I slip and hit the side. (from memory) I think they are 22mm, there are special sockets out there for the job, but a good old ring spanner will be fine if you have disconnected it first. My 420R has a MG Rover box with part number MHK10006, that was supplied under same part number from CC. You can still get genuine Rover parts from Rimmer Bros.

What a pain, I tightened mine before I fitted my shocks, positioning the bushes by jacking the wishbone until it was level with the chassis. Way before the engine was fitted. Given your situation a pit might be useful, do you know anyone local? Even then it’s tight down there with the alternator in position :-(

My early 360 kits bracket was fine (Oct 2015), strange. The resistor is located near the speedo. Caerbont publish wiring instructions on their website, but it’s on the assumption that Caterham doesn’t have anything special. It also fits the wiring diagram, the caerbont instructions and the need for the resistor.

The sensor is NPN, strangely wired to the PNP connection on the speedo, meaning they have to install a 1K pull up resistor. The 5.5 mm sensor is way more stable than the old 8, cheaper and if purchased from CC they will include the adapter, so swapping over is simple. I suspect they have deliberately made the adapter stupidly expensive for what it is to encourage purchasing on the complete kit.

Without doubt that’s the wrong washer, if no one posts the correct washer I will at the weekend when under my car

oh just seen the photo, yep that looks wrong

My bet is the connection between the ECU and relay. I suspect the software / ECU is fine, or we would have 420s over heating all over the place. It's been know for the pins not to be seated properly in the ECU connector, I wonder if that the case for your fan control wire from the ECU. If you have tested the relay, fan, fuse and the continuity between the fan and the relay, the continuity with the fan and earth, then it would be next on my list.

That will work and some self amalgamating loom tape to cover the join for now https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/self-amalgamating-tape-10-metre

Sorry can't help on the wire gauge, a trip to halfords with an off cut before you order the correct colour would sort that.

I would not replace the loom for that damage, but understand you want the best (as those that know me and my cars know I want). This is a bit from memory because my car is not with me at the moment, but the loom running down the tunnel is combined (all the wires), and splits into separate lines for the rear light, fuel pump ect near the diff. Obviously only the reverse light split is damaged and in need of replacement. You could purchase some econoseal connectors and the tool to crimp them. Cut the reverse light line as it comes down the diagonal behind the seat from the tunnel to the ARB, and put an econoseal connector on. Then make a lead with the correct wires, length and colour, loom tape etc, and two new econoseal connectors one for the reverse light and one to join it back to the original loom. Done correctly all you would end up with is one extra male and female econseal connectors, something that's all over the loom anyway. You could even match the position on the diagonal where the speed sensor connection is made on the other side. If you do purchase an econoseal tool, get some extra crimps to try a few before you start on the loom, its not hard but you will want the practice before crimping onto your loom.

I agree with James on this, a local repair is all that needed. Heatshrink and solder will sort in no time, making a repair as good as new. If your not sure I would contact a local auto electrician to help. Good find by the way.

It’s only the Green Brown wire that’s the problem. The black wire should be earthed. You can dismantle the eco seal connector, pull out the ‘broken’ Green Brown wire, and put in the replacement. You remove the yellow locking insert, then lift the tiny tag that holds the pin, and out comes the wire. But speak to CC first and float that plan.

I don’t think so, the wire only goes front the reverse switch, along the tunnel, down the back panel, along the tube below the dedion tube and round into the light, and the damage should be obvious, if there is no visible damage then it’s CC’s problem, unfortunately this will ruin your schedule, but CC will fix it, if it’s not damaged. Option B make a lead and that will replace the faulty wire, tie wrap it to the loom so you can pass IOM IVA, then get CC to fix when it goes to PBC. CC will make you that lead I am sure given the situation.

That’s bad news, time to put your findings into an email to CC. Can you trace the reverse light wire back from the light and back into the tunnel and check for damage or trapping. Example the dedion tube or rear anti roll bar trapping the wiring, or even the diff mount.

With the switch and light disconnected?

You said before, 1, Fuse blows if you select reverse, with the reverse lamp unit disconnected. AND 2, The fuse does not blow until you select reverse. This only leave two options 1 The reverse switch is faulty once reverse is selected 2 The Green Brown wire is shorted to earth in the loom. Disconnect the wires from the reverse switch and leave the reverse light disconnect, then check if the green brown wire or the switch wires have connection to earth. I hope for your builds sake it’s the switch wires that are the problem.