ChrisC

No woodruff keys or hydraulic lifters on Duratec’s (or Sigmas). Friction fit for the cam pulleys as well as the crank drive. Have you had any work done recently?

The front pulley bolt holds the timing chain drive and oil pump / dry sump drive, all are friction fit. That bolt comes loose and valves will meet pistons.

Store Lipos half charged, they are dangerous empty and charging, but I bet you didn’t know it had a Lipo in there in the first place. Have a quick look at the YouTube vids on Lipo fires, and your see why people charge them in amo boxes or special fire proof bags.

That was close, where was it stored? Seen a few LiPo fires from my days flying radio controlled helicopters and that sized LiPo would create a fairly big fire/flame. I would say you have been lucky.

D cars yes, it won’t make any difference if the chassis is metric or imperial, it fits to the lower bolt holes of the bell housing. you can just about see it in Daniel’s R500 build blog. http://www.caterhamr500.co.uk/2014/03/build-day-sixteen-engine-and-gearbox-in.html

So it’s still available, Miles car has the plastic wedge, which replaced this part.

Replied, just check your car does not have the plastic wedge already fitted

Dry Sump Guard, never fitted, has a minor scratch where is has been in my tool box over winter, https://caterhamparts.co.uk/oil-system/4344-dry-sump-guard-r3-4-500.html?search_query=r500+sump+&results=231 Free to good home, all I ask is you cover the postage (or collect form the Essex Meet)

Free to good home, Cams from my 360, removed for 420 upgrade and stock oil pump removed for dry sump upgrade. My 360 covered 2800 road miles and one track day. All I ask is you cover postage (or collect from the Essex Meet)

I can answer why a MAP based car needs a TPS, The TPS acts a bit like a accelerator pump on carbs. It tells the ECU whats required before the MAP sensor. Obviously in the electronic world it also acts in the opposite direction (unlike an accelerator pump) identifying over run. I have never seen my 420 at throttle site 0 during idle, worst was 6 (before disconnecting the battery) and more normally 1. This is the exact opposite to my Sigma 150 where 0 was the target for the idle. I have said before a good vacuum in the plenum seems to create a better idle to on throttle transition, and this has been my focus on improving the drivability of my 420, BUT take it to far and the 900 rpm idle can't be maintained.

Thanks James, That’s why it hunts if you close the butterfly to far at idle, it can’t maintain the ECU set idle speed. I have seen it the over way as well, where the idle speed is higher because the butterfly was to far open at idle, but it didn’t hunt.

Reading some build blogs, if you do that before PBC, CC bend the pedal, replace the throttle cable, and charge you for the pleasure.

The rev counter in the R is the problem, 6 o’clock is 1100 rpm, hence I think it’s all to do with the angle of the dangle.

I bend mine out of the car, in a workmate bench, covered in ducted tape to protect the paint. I also use the position level with the pedals. It means I have to bend it so far the bolt can’t be removed, and I have to make sure it lines up with a slot pre cut in the pedal box.

Anything wrong with these guys (apart from the name of course) https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/BZP-10.9_ScrewBolt_HexHd_M10_THRpart.html

So picture stolen from the internet, but I have highlighted where the idle screw and locking nut is. Providing the throttle cable isn't pulling on the butterfly for some reason the idle will be set by that screw. If the throttle cable was unattached the spring will close the throttle to the idle screw stop. The threaded block holding the throttle cable is for fine adjustment of the throttle cable tension. Don't believe the instruments, mine always displayed a steady 1100 rpm, but actually the ECU reported 850 - 900 rpm, so your 900 is fine. Making the idle lower made my cars ECU hunt making the idle very erratic. A 420 has a modified cam, so a 500 rpm smooth idle is probably to much to ask, couple that with the lightened flywheel and I bet it would almost be undriveable at slow speed. I can see why you think that way, after all its how all modern production cars get their CO2 emissions on tests. Don't forget to make any adjustment with the battery disconnected. Bending the throttle pedal and adjusting the throttle pedal stop is the way to get fully wide open throttle (or that lovely solution above)

New manual is nice and clear on this M10 x 65 Grade 10.9 Rear hub through ear to front DeDion M10 x 55 Grade 10.9 Front hub through ear and Caliper Carrier Bolt M10 x 40 Grade 10.9 Through rear of ear into threaded Dedion holes Think I would stick to grade 10.9, my local fastener place gets them with a couple of days lead time. Not sure how close to tolerance they are, but don't fancy my rear wheel falling off.

Good point the push button switches have a controller / relay board https://caterhamparts.co.uk/other/3751-instrumentation-circuit-board-r500-seven-485-duratec.html I always wondered if that's a RS232 connector, so is it programmable.

Has it just started doing that, or have you just noticed it’s doing it? A guess would be a wire going to the wrong connection (fuse or relay box maybe) more than a broken wire or worn insulation etc.

Can you cross thread an oil filter? I suspect that’s possible if your using an equivalent that’s not that close a match. What filter are you trying to fit?

So you want full open butterfly at full throttle and a butterfly closed enough to pull a good vacuum at idle, but open enough for the idle to be smooth. The stop on the butterfly adjusts the idle, and the combination of bending the throttle pedal and the adjustment of the pedal stop permits the full throttle. Since you don’t have a battery isolator disconnect your battery during the adjust, because the ECU is permanently powered and gets confused if the TPS idle setting changes. Apart from that your good to go. To read settings from the ECU you need Easymap and the appropriate lead but that’s only to read not change. Only people with the Caterham unlocked software can change the ECU, but that’s a different discussion.

Much smaller rad bobbings

Yep that’s what I spotted as well. Looks like the rad spec has changed. Call Derek on this one.

Considering it's a new build, and any deviation from Caterham standard spec will be rectified during PBC at the builders cost I would ignore that option (for now). Get the PBC and IVA done first.

Sorry for being thick here, but any chance of posting a picture? I bet CC will have sorted this by the time you read this post, i.e. it's a wrong/faulty part or something, but for comparison have you checked out Marcus' 420 SV build blog. Lots of pictures of the rad and oil cooler setup, although I believe the cowling is no longer supplied. https://caterham420rbuild.com/2016/07/