ChrisC

Just for reference, all current Sigma and Duratec cars use coolant with OAT additives.

PS to answer your question, I would want the PPF applied before the decals, the decals with pin stripes are already two layers so I can’t see how a good finish can be obtained if PPF is applied after.

Take a good hard look at older cars before you order, PPF works to a point, but it does not stop damage from the underside, so it’s actual value is limited. If you want perfection maybe a Caterham (or a painted one) isn’t for you, they consume paint. My last kit didn’t have PPF, just as the rear arches started to look like they could do with a paint next year I got a massive star crack from underneath, meaning a repaint during the winter. Both were done by TSK, at half the cost of PPF for the two wings.

Never had a problem with the rear calipers (apart from pad rattle) but I have always followed the advice of getting the bakes working before touching the handbrake to give the adjusters chance to work. I wonder how many kit builders attach the handbrake cable (and thus pull the handbrake) before doing the brake fluid fill. It you have handbrake problems on one caliper have you tried resetting the adjusters in the calipers by winding them back, then pressing with the brakes a few had time before adjusting the handbrake cable?

Perfect example John, and best way to test if you have the problem.

"Been there done that" with this one. My problems started when my original kit supplied reconditioned ford calipers where replaced under warranty with Caterham branded new items after a leak. I tried everything, new pads (replacing 100 mile old pads), new anti rattle shims, and even hand brake cable adjustment (which I know is a bad idea), but it didn't stop the Delphi pad rattling in the Caterham branded rear calipers. The solution was to bend the anti rattle spring on the pad so it actually made contact with the caliper anti rattle shim. If you compare the Delphi pads and the AP pads on the Caterham parts website you will see the AP pads have a different profile to the anti rattle sping, so the problem is limited to Delphi pads in Caterham branded rear calipers. AP https://caterhamparts.co.uk/calipers-pads-discs/593-rear-brake-pads-set-of-4.html?search_query=rear+pad&results=175 Delphi https://caterhamparts.co.uk/calipers-pads-discs/668-brake-pads-rear-use-with-4-pot-front-brakes.html?search_query=rear+pad&results=175 You don't need to create the same shape, just make them less quarter to three and more ten to two for the rattle to go. Obviously if your car was built by caterham get them to do it under warranty, or if you built it yourself then its a simple job but you will need a caliper wind back tool.

My 420 would leak from the expansion tank because the hose is 19mm ID, but the expansion tank is 16mm. It would only happen when the car cooled down. It’s worth a check.

To test this problem, you don't event need to remove anything, just park without the handbrake, and through the wheel check to see if the pads are loose, if you can move the pad with you finger then it might be the source of your rattle. Only do this when the pads are cold

Had the same problem with the Delpi rear pads. A simple tweak to the anti rattle spring on the pads solved my rattle.

It's this https://caterhamparts.co.uk/throttle-cables/4056-throttle-potentiometer-csr260-a-sigma-150.html

Good point - Follow James guidance, and then disconnect the battery for a few seconds before you test again. I found the ECU was permanently powered while adjusting my throttle cable / TPS which resulted in very strange map site readings i.e. an idle at throttle site 4.5, but a disconnect of the battery resolved it. Later a review of the wiring diagram confirmed the permanent power connection to the ECU. The comment about the little or no adjustment relates to the TPS and throttle body, both Ford components, which I assume don't need fine adjustment because they are connected to a more sophisticated ECU in their Ford application that learns the idle position. Compared to the TPS used on ITBs where the mounting holes are slots.

There is little or no adjustment with the TPS of the standard Duratec plastic throttle body, Remeber the ECU is permantly powered, so after you have made the throttle adjustments disconnect the power (battery or master switch if you have one) so the ECU can adjust to the new idle position.

My favorite is the fact its no longer possible to remove the font pads on the 4 pot setup without removing the caliper, because the pins holding the pads hit the wing stays.

I stand corrected the purplemeanie diagram is correct, the “Recirculating Hose” does exist - please disregard my previous comment.

Your car sounds fine

Agreed, must have been a Ford change for improved emissions. Swapping my car to an 82 stat stopped my fan from running constantly, and massively improved access in the area being a smaller stat housing and a S3 car, before that space in that area was at a premium.

Scott based on your comments sometime in 2015, my kit was October 2015 delivered, so a very early 360R, hence I had an ECU that was expecting an 82C stat and a fan that came on at 100, but a stat that didn't open until 105, so the fan run constantly.

So my gut feeling is you car is perfectly normal. I had a different problem with my 360 when it was originally first on the road. The fan would cut in before the thermostat opened, therefore the fan was trying to cool a radiator that didn’t have hot water passing through it. During my investigation of this issue I discovered a couple of things that might be relevant to your car. 1, The gauge isn’t accurate, I.e if it reads 90, the ECU won’t be reading 90, they use different sensors. My gauge tends to over read the temperature. 2, There are two thermostats for Duratec engines a 82C stat and a 105C stat. My car had a 105C, which is the norm for 360/420 cars, therefore I bet your running temp is 105C If you want to check for my cars problem, just check it the bottom hose is cold when the fan starts, if it is then the fan is over acting. I fixed my problem by fitting the 82C stat, but I could have got CC to adjust the ECU fan settings. However as I said I suspect your car is working normally.

Rob I have owned both, although in 420 form only briefly. For me it's 420 all day long because the 360 engine character is missing something. I suspect it's the difference between stock road cams, and upgraded cams. Somehow all the characteristics people want in their tin top road cars seem out of place in a Caterham. I would actual pick the 310 over the 360, assuming I had no intension of upgrading, I think the Sigma cars suit my driving style, or to put that another way, I haven't got used to my duratec car yet.

In that case I would be tempted to just replace the coolant section, given that's all that's leaking, it would save the mess and haste of dealing with an oil change / top up. Assuming CC warranty department are happy with that.

Is it both sections they are sending. It looks like the oil cooler and rad are just bolted together, but I could be wrong on that.

Joys of a home mechanic, a water tank, an air line (with the correct pressure) and connectors to blank the rad outlets off would be needed to test the rad for leaks before fitting. That type of equipment I just don’t have. So I would be left with fitting, and assume the testing had been done by the CC supplier.

I read a few weeks ago here on blatchat a comment along the lines of "when sprinting, upgrading the shocks gave not time improvement", so I am shocked that shocks are wining at the moment. Assuming you have good setup with your current shocks, I would go LSD first. It transformed my 150, I hatted the spinning the unloaded wheel feeling.

No expert but looking at this link it seems the ECU reset is likely to be the cause of the cam sensor fault. http://www.sbdev.co.uk/FAQs/General_running.html

Yer must admit there seems to be a trend at the moment with build blogs, “If I doubt grind it out”. I don’t remember using the dremel on anything significant, apart from a few minor fibreglass adjustments during my build in 2016. But my new kit is due in September so lets see how that goes.