ChrisC

Looking at your pedals Steve, and this is only an observation, but it looks like your clutch pedal misses the bulkhead stop, is it possible your clutch and brake pedal are reversed. Could they be swapped?

I think the problem could stem from the throttle pedal bending step during the build. The build manual recommends doing this on the car, which is ok I guess, but I found the mounting plate/hole for the throttle pedal to be to weak for the forces involved in bending the pedal. This means it's easy to bend the pivot point result in a pedal that doesn't move as expected. In addition for some strange reason my brake and clutch used the forward holes and my throttle was mounted in the rear hole. I haven't even investigated the pedals on my current build, but know I will be bending off the car, which is a time consuming process due to the access available. In your situation I would be inclined to purchase a new throttle pedal and start again. Install the pedal, check the stop on the throttle pedal holds it in the desired position when the throttle is closed in comparison to the brake, then bend the cable arm so that its in the correct place for the throttle cable at idle and clears the pedal box when pressed. Finally adjust the throttle stop on the bulkhead for full throttle. (Sorry for clarification this is for later cars)

Personally I think new builders no longer need to worry about wheel bearing grease from my personal experience. My current build had what I would consider sufficient wheel bearing grease applied, unlike my previous build (at the beginning of this thread). Pictures https://caterham420detailedbuildblog.co.uk/2019/11/25/upright-inspection

Ok so I have removed my calipers this weekend from my new build. As you can see from my previous photos the Snapon Torx Plus EP12 I used last time did the job, but at the cost of destroying the bolts. Since I visited the Snapon rep last Friday I decided to take a new caliper bolt with me to see what they could offer. The problem seems to be the dome, apparently the Bluepoint sockets have a deeper dish to the Snapon sockets. So we tried a Bluepoint E12 Torx, which was a perfect fit. It remove the bolts with no damage at all. They could be reused (but I won't). So from my persecutive, its a E12 Torx (as confirmed in post #68 by Mark w), but the socket must have a deep dish to fit properly. If you have access to a Snapon rep (or can stomach the postage cost), look for a BLPTE3812, which is only £2.34 +vat for the prefect socket.

Look where the rear brake caliper is fitted

Try this one https://cms.caterhamcars.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/A4%20Assembly%20Guide_Edition%201.2_Spreads.pdf

I have nothing more recent than 02.2015c for Duratec cars. it's just no longer fitted and the drop link is moved to the other side. I had a photo sent to me during my 2016 build, but it is shown in 1.2 of the new manual.

Also item 3 is no longer fitted.

So they are EP12 or 12EP what I used last time (back in 2016). I am sure they will get them out, but I am not convinced its the correct tool for the job. I kept the bolts from 2016, and you can see the damage on the head. Also they don't exactly fit perfectly.

I know this is a bit of thread resurrection (pun intended), but does anyone know the best fit for these bolts yet? I have tried EP12 and E12 and damaged the bolt heads on removal. I am about to remove another set, so hence the question. Has anyone tried RIBE sockets?

You could try and advertise and reach out to an Academy kit builder. I am sure they would sell you their new doors, for a small cash incentive and your doors with mirrors fitted. Assuming your new car is an S3.

Actually thats by design, the Hazards have to light up, its an IVA requirement, you also need a warning light for the fog light. The heated windscreen would be difficult to tell if its on or off without the warning light. The wipers and washer on the other hand can be seen working from the driver seat, so there is no need for the warning light, so they light up with the lights. I guess the fan also falls into that category.

And it's standard fit now

Have you tried https://workshop-manuals.com/ford Pick a 2007 Mondeo

I always assumed the problem with the water temp reading using the sensor in the submarine was the earth connection, Not sure how good the earth connection is on the dry sump tank, maybe its better :-) Can't remember where I read that about the gauges, so don't take it as gospel.

Is it the Sterling Excel unit? I just checked the owners manual for that unit, and there is nothing about a battery in the fob. Any chance the antenna in the tunnel cover has become disconnected?

John as you sure you gauge is correct. The only temperature I trust is the one from the Ford sensor used by the ECU. My 360R was an early example so still had the 1/4 sweep gauge of the Sigma engined cars, but the reading was always lower than the ECU. Another problem I had (but this could be an early model thing) was the ECU switched the fan on at 97C, but the thermostat didn't open until 102, which meant my fan ran constantly. I swapped to an 82 which solved all my problems. I always assumed that this meant the ECU settings and stat combination must have changed during the introduction of the 420/360R in 2015(ish), but I know a 2010 build that had the same problem and was solved with the same solution. I still think the sender orientation may be the problem, if the float is bottoming out on the slope in the tank. I seem to remember reading somewhere the 3/4 sweep gauges learn the lowest and highest reading, and display based on that, but could be wrong on that one.

Oh and I think Mark is the man when it comes to fuel gauge accuracy. His blog reports on what I think is the main cause, and that is the tank pump / sender not being correctly oriented. More info here https://www.caterham7diaries.com/post/fuel-gauge-sorted-the-tank-sender-needed-rotating

Thanks Stewart, I have only got the chassis delivered today so the build and the blog will get some detail over the weekend.

A 2016 420R should have a 100C+ stat, from the factory. If the temperature is fluctuating like that I would suspect either an airlock or, and in my opinion more likely, a poor connection to the gauge temp sensor in the submarine hose. The gauge and the ECU use a different temperature sensor, if you can find a local club member with Easymap you will be able to confirm if the ECU matches the gauge. If they are the same then an airlock is more likely. If they are different then connections to the gauge sensor would be where I would look.

Its not in the MOT manual, but it is in the IVA manual and I had it checked during my IVA. Obviously IVA doesn't matter on a retrofit discussion. I have only used mine for late evening drives home from club nights, early morning drives to track days and one "summer" day in the black forest where the mist and clouds was hanging in the trees.

The new smaller sensor does light up, but its not easy to see, its more of a glow around the wire going into the sensor. The new sensor has to be much closer to the trigger when than the old sensor.

There is a check list used for the PBC, I don't have a blank copy, only the result of someone else's PBC, so its not mine to forward onto you. I can confirm there was no headlight alignment done if the PBC was done by CC South (circa Jan 2017) because they didn't have the machine then. It wasn't a problem for the IVA because there was plenty of time given for me to adjust them during the test (I presented the car myself). I did however pay for a flat floor setup by CC, so my suspension and tracking was adjusted as part of that at extra cost to the PBC. I can't remember needing any paperwork at the IVA, although I had everything with me, the examiner said all the paperwork was on the system, all he checked was the VIN and engine number. Sorry, can't remember the rest of the forms :-(

I was under the impression, that tack day tyres like the ZZR are not legal to sell for road use, but are legal to use on the road. I think its the same as tractor tyres. They are legal to sell for track use, and then if they are used on the road that is legal also, but the seller must be selling them for the track