ChrisC

All depends on your approach to the IVA. If you are going to get CC to present the car for you, then CC will remove the flexible hoses and replace them with the ridged ones supplied in the kit before they present the car (at your cost) during PBC. If you are going to present the car yourself (without PBC) then it might pass but as with all braided hoses installed inside the car you will have to cover them with rubber fuel hose, as per my post https://caterham420detailedbuildblog.co.uk/2020/01/08/de-dion-tube/ where I applied the fuel hose to the rear brake hose. Ironically I think presenting it at Gillingham with any modification from standard is more likely to reduce your odds of a pass because Gillingham are so used to the standard CC build, any deviation they instantly spot, for example during my 360R IVA test they commented that the wires where routed differently to CC builds. I prefer the flexible rear brake hoses, but they will have to wait for my first brake fluid flush. I wouldn't take the risk before IVA, its not somthing your going to be able to change during the test and there was a £90 retest charge back in 2017.

Actually its not :-( The stock 360/420 paper filter is Ford Fiesta (non ST150), which means it should be K&N 33-2853, but that didn't fit very well into the airbox. A friends 310s had a standard K&N supplied in the kit, part number 33-2036 which I believe is designed for a Nissan, it was a much better fit. Since I have already purchase (and sold on eBay) one filter, I decided next time I was going to go for this https://caterhamparts.co.uk/other/4358-air-filter-r300-race-car-33-2036.html?search_query=air+filter&results=126 There is also this one https://caterhamparts.co.uk/other/6872-air-filter-panel-race.html?search_query=air+filter&results=126 Based purely on the direction of the ridges in the filter media (and the url where you can see the K&N part number), I am going for the 310's filter the 33-2036 next time (once I have passed IVA)

If they haven't changed since the Discovery channels "How its made" episode, mostly double sided tape and some adhesive in the corners, the stuff used for the front wheel arches.

Obviously I have photos for the build blog, but genuine Ford part supplied by CC, bag opened by me. Part number remains unchanged, only difference is the packing date and the newer look to the label. It would be nice to get a same age left hand thread nut to see if that remains 41mm.

No torque change 270Nm the Ford part number remains the same so it's Fords change not CC.

Just for Information. Right hand side rear hub hut, Genuine Ford Part Number 6133688, packaged 17/11/2017, and supplied by CC is no longer 41mm but 42mm. The left hand side kit supplied rear hub nut (at the time of posting) remains the familiar 41mm, but this could just be old stock because the ford packaging / label looks older and there is no packaging date.

Caterham Workshop Notice 662A covers the change.

You use both spacer and top hat spacer. The main job of the top hat spacer is to replace the special cut down nut with the top hat spacer and a standard 1/2" UNF 1/2 nyloc nut.

I have the top-hat spacer on my 420R build, and have blogged about the change. https://caterham420detailedbuildblog.co.uk/2019/11/17/uprights/ The fit wasn't easy, I had to freeze the top hats to get them to fit the bearing. There is no special turned down nut anymore, it was replaced in November 2018.

The sidescreen bit is easy, there are mounted low down near the the front of the sidescreen so when open the sidescreen doesn't touch the scuttle paintwork. Not sure about the nosecone application.

They're all iPhone pictures, with the size dropped to 1/2 the original resolution. Some will have had engine numbers or chassis numbers removed and only a hand full are picked for the blog.

Thank you, it takes a lot of effort, and comments like that make it all work worth while. I will be making some progress this week and this weekend alone there is already 58 photos to be down sized and uploaded There is no way that engine oil is coming from the starter, it has to be coming from something above it, unfortunately almost everything above the starter on a Sigma (except the 150) is covered with the plenum. If you want to solve it yourself, I would be looking at finding a endoscope to find the problem. The plastic breather block on the side of the Sigma engine block and the breather hose connected to it is almost directly about the starter, if you can't see oil from the cam cover it has to be the prime suspect. That said I would also understand just leaving to CC for the PBC, it would be a large undertaking to remove, and would feel like a massive step backwards.

If it's a 310, then the 1.2 picture manual is not helpful. It doesn't cover the fitting of the breather pipes and catch tank at all. Page 85 of the old 2015c manual has some information on this, but this references the 140 (older engine).

Also have you forgotten a breather hose. I am just checking version 1.2 of the build manual for the steps (if it's in there)

So looking at the photo I am guessing its a Sigma build, based on the starter motor bolt location. I would be shocked if it's a crankshaft seal problem, when they leak you normally see it first at the bottom on the bellhousing. Spilt clutch fluid from bleeding would be my first guess, but only you can tell from the consistency of the oil if its engine oil or dot 4. Also if the slave cylinder was leaking again I would expect that to appear at the bottom of the bellhousing not on the starter motor. Therefore I suspect it's engine oil coming from above the starter, which leads me to think it might be from the breather or dipstick tube. This can happen for a couple of reasons, but the obvious easy mistake to make is over filling the engine with oil. This would lead to oil in the breather. Over filling is easy to do given how clean everything is and the tendency for the oil to be pushed away from the dipstick when the level is checked quickly. Obviously check the black plastic cam cover, this was removed during the kit preparation by CC, but I would expect that to be more obvious. I think beyond that your photography skill are going to be tested because you need a picture from above the starter motor.

Even the LED headlights aren't used for IVA, apparently certificates are needed if presented with them fitted so its easier to swap them to halogen units for the test if you don't have the paperwork.

Thanks to Daniel French's wiper motor removal blog post you can see the earth connection I am talking about and the behind that in the background you can see the immobiliser box http://www.caterhamr500.co.uk/2016/03/wiper-motor-removal-with-guide.html

So being a September 2019 build your 420 will be using the latest earth lead configuration, as far as I can tell its been a know problem since 2016. I still suspect the earth connection behind knee panel on the LHS, where the wiper motor is located. The immobiliser box is located there as well so I assume it uses the same earth connection. I am at a loss to explain why its only a problem when hot, unless the connection poor but not non existent and is getting hot and increasing resistance when an increased current is flowing.

Hi John This "When a car had a misfire when the indicators where used" was a comment made by a respected CC factory member of staff, when he showed me around the factory two months ago. I was asking all the technical questions I could throw at him, and the change to earth lead location was one. I spotted at the CC open day this year on the yellow 420R with the new cage, so wanted to find the reason why. I don't know specifics about the car that had the original fault. Chris.

Also your misfire, I spoke to the factory about the changes to the engine earth and was advised that the spec was changed when a car had a misfire when the indicators where used, that took days to resolve. They changed the earth cable default locations, so where do your battery / engine earth cables run from / to? Build manual recommended Battery to Chassis and Chassis (near LHS engine mount) to Engine, Factory now just go Battery to Chassis and Battery to Engine. Worth a check I guess, but Oakmere should be all other that one.

Hi Richard Having owned two post 2015 Duratec cars, I can tell you any published wiring diagrams are way way out of date, so are nearly useless. The Immobiliser isn't on the wiring diagram for obvious reasons. My late 2015 360R kit, didn't have a "MFU" and didn't have multiple connections between he Engine and Chassis loom, as depicted in the wiring diagram, later models (from 2016) had updated instruments and a newer ECU, and still the wiring diagram isn't updated. That said I believe the wiper wiring to be accurate. What age is you 420R? I think the earth connection near the wiper motor would be a good place to start. That earth is connected to a lot of components and is near the immobiliser location. I don't think its the cause of your speedo problems. For that check your car has the earth mod fitted, and check the version of the sensor you have. If you need any pictures, I don't have any knee panels fitted to my new build at the moment so it will be simple to get them for you.

Maybe, maybe not. It was in the car

When I fitted my decat pipe I purchased another lambda sensor. It makes the swap back at MOT time a simple 5 min task.

I think the problem is the mounting bracket of a 620 https://caterhamparts.co.uk/brackets/5899-number-plate-bracket.html is designed to hold the quick release mounts. The quick release studs are to short to go through the Isle of Man plate. So I would do either, A, Recess the holes in the Isle of Man number plate, so the head of the quick release mount stud is flush with the plate. Much like counter sinking the hole. It would take some research to find the correct tool, I router bit maybe or if you have access to someone with a milling machine. B, Cut a couple bits of sheet carbon fibre, say 100 mm x 30mm, to make mount plates. These mounting plated will have a hole in the centre so you can mount them to the mounting bracket using the quick release studs. Then use the 3M Dual Lock tape recommended above to secure the Isle of Man plate onto the carbon fibre mount plated.

356DNA first observation is no pedal rubber on the brake pedal, failed an MOT years ago on that, assume is still checked. Bet it was present at the IVA. Spacing looks ok, but its a top down shoot that will give the true picture. Have you taken the pedal box cover off yet?