ChrisC

Hi Bruce Not going to be an easy one to diagnose. Lack of up to date wiring diagrams and recent ECU changes are some of the hurdles you face. I would want to see if there is a signal on the white and black stripe wire to see if the problem lies with the car or the shift lights (or the configuration of the lights). I would use an oscilloscope for this, but that's not exactly a common tool to own :-( Can you checked the settings of the Ace with a know working example on a 310R? Chris,

Looked at your video of the 620R sump on YouTube, noticed you have an oil cooler for the supercharger oil. So be careful what section of the radiator you blank off, unless you are monitoring that as well.

So my new 420R build has the same radiator as yours, but can't IVA it at the moment due to the lockdown. During my testing I have often let my car get to fan switch on temperature (with Easymap connected), but the fan brings the temperature down at a rapid rate, it only runs for 10 - 15 seconds before Easymap is reading 100C. Obviously I don't have the heat soak associated with some high load, and the ambient temperatures to deal with, but the fan / radiator combination seems more than powerful enough for the job, hence my question. I suspect you may have a problem somewhere, airlock maybe?

Mark, are you saying your 420R can't reduce its temperature at idle when the fan is running below the fan cut off temperature?

The part number is on the springs, maybe thats all your supplier needs.

Since they stopped fitting R400 ARP bolts, based on the parts picking list on my kit, which includes the engine and chassis build up parts, I think I will pass.

Thankfully 8500rpm is a little beyond a 420R.

The factory wiring diagram doesn't show the battery master switch install. The obvious change is the brown loom +ve connections are relocated from the starter terminal to the master switch. Ignition switch connections remain unchanged as far as I can see.

Assuming your car isn't a very early (2015) 420R, the thermostat in the standard Ford part for a Duratec meaning it opens at 102C. Before that temperature was is circulating through the bypass circuit and not the radiator. The ECU operates the fan at 105C. To complicate things the gauge and the ECU use a different sensor, so there can be a little discrepancy between the gauge and the fan, but it sounds like yours is spot on. I am not sure why the Duratec can cool sufficiently without the thermostat being open when on the motorway, and what the effect is in reality, don't forget the coolant is circulating, the oil is being cooled (no thermostat), and the ECU would be running the fan if there was a problem. Older cars had a 82C stat and a 97C fan kick in point, but your car is maintaining that temprature without problem. So it sounds like your car is perfectly normal to me.

I couldn't find a setting for them anywhere, so I used the old caliper to upright bolt setting of 58Nm (from the 2015c manual page 213). The problem is normally removing them from the old uprights, the amount of thread lock combined with a odd shape E12 socket means stripping the head is a real possibility. I have tried three sockets, eventually finding one that can remove the bolts without damage. This might help https://caterham420detailedbuildblog.co.uk/2019/11/25/upright-inspection/

That locking nut can be tight, also make sure it's clean from rust and dirt.

There is two nuts, a locking one and the adjuster. Undo the locking first with the handbrake applied, the release the handbrake and loosen the adjuster. You are correct it's anti-clockwise to loosen.

Dependent on cost, I would be up for a set/pair.

Do you know what plates your Titan had, Sintrak or Carbon? Caterham have gone to Sintrak from Carbon due to service life, and apparently they make significantly more noise because of this. My 420R build has a Sintrak plate Titan and like you I have not been able to drive it yet due to the lockdown. I just wanted to understand if the 4 years was with Sintrak plates, to give me some idea how long my diff will last past warranty. Also how did you know you had a diff problem before seeking the advice of Steve Perks. I can't help thinking faced with the same situation a Tracksport swap, over a rebuild is the way to go, but it all depends of cost and projected life.

Yes, my mistake it should be shrinks As for the inserts, I must admit to never seeing any other colour combination other than blue metric and white imperial, and that certainly is the case for the current fixings provided by Caterham, but a simple tweak to the wording will be made.

Can't help with your question, but I can say I thought they where added to allow full movement of the spherical bearing in the wishbone, but I could be wrong. I though I would post because the cut down nut has been superseded with a Top Hat spacer and 1/2 nut. You can see the new design here https://caterham420detailedbuildblog.co.uk/2019/11/17/uprights/

My 2011 academy car had this clutch slave https://caterhamparts.co.uk/clutch-parts/3666-clutch-release-bearing-sigma.html From the picture you can see the white bung was where the hose went in, the other connection was the bleed, but it was just a plastic finger twist thing, that you gave 1/4 turn to open it. Both where on the side of the bellhousing. Obviously your car could be a long way from stock by now.

I IVA'ed my 360 as per the 2016 recommendations, i.e. tie wrapped to the A-Frame, its also how I will present my 420R (when tests are resumed). For reference wording from the PBD, checklist as follows. "Check handbrake is routed correctly and secured to A-frame" and "Check handbrake cable is not contacting the driveshafts or brake hose when on the floor"

Even still called "Hand Brake Cable Clip" on the Caterham parts website https://caterhamparts.co.uk/fixings-other/365-clip-hand-brake-cable.html

It's a moving target how the factory builds them, they tend to tie wrap to the A-Frame and used the rubber to protect the chassis (not the A-frame) at the moment. I preferred the P-clips

Hi James Late 2016, will mean Caterham branded remade (not refurbished Ford) Sierra caliper. My experience with these calipers is mixed. The first pair I had where fine, they came as a warranty replacement for a 2015 kit which has been supplied with refurbished Ford items. I have seen photos of a friends car where he had a rear caliper fire within weeks of IVA / PBC, and my recent (this week) experience of leaks from brand new item for my current build. My leaking new caliper would normally be no problem, but apparently Caterham supply chain for them has run dry due to China lockdown, and I had a choice wait of a part with no ETA or looks for an alternative. I decided to rebuild my new kit calipers with parts from BiggRed. Obviously I started with the leaking caliper, which dismantled very easy, only to find swarf in the caliper a scratched piston and what was described by BiggRed as a "slack seal". The rebuild using BiggRed parts was successful, so I decided with what I found to rebuild the other side. This time (and the point of my post) removing the piston was a pig, it took a lot of persuasion to get out, much like your piston is taking to get in. I had the luxury of working on the bench and yet it still took a good half an hour, your working under the arch, with the brake line connected. All I can say is persevere, and keep the pressure on with the backplate of the wind back tool, so its the pressure from the tool that pushes the piston in as you wind back the adjuster nut (inside the caliper). And yes clockwise is correct to wind the piston into the caliper. Can you not assemble the tool in the caliper so it fits, if not then the grinder sounds like a plan (I hate tool abuse). Chris.

Thank you, took a massive step backwards last night with an electrical problem :-( Minor, but an IVA check so needs must. Instruments out and wiring every where to find the problem. Apart from that I would have been ready for my original IVA date of the 20th, my current date is the 1st April but I am just waiting for the email / call to cancel that because of the virus.

For my wing M5 would not clear the hole drilled by Caterham, so M4 it was. The rubber backed washers are M5 to allow them to take up the angle.

I would not change anything before IVA, but fully intent to swap to nylon post, also your washer bottle is now located in that corner. The big question is how are you going to screw your rear light on, the self tapping screws bite the wing and crack the gel coat. I think I have found a way to work round it, but haven't posted it on the blog yet. I am using rubber backed domed washers and flare nyloc nuts and bolts (M4) which clear the hole that's normally drilled for the self tapper. Also helps with the new requirement to secure the wiring between the light and the skin.

Isn't there also a bypass effect with the drilling / shape of the thermostat housing, although not so much bypass, more like "stat close, low flow through the rad, and bypass via the expansion tank", "stat open, high flow through the rad"