ChrisC

In 2007 you would have needed a cat to register as built from all new parts. This is the only way an 07 plate can be assigned. At the time you could pass SVA with an older engine and therefore an older emissions standard, but that would have been a Q plate or older registration mark if the engine was new old stock. Also at that time Caterham wasn't supplying starter kits. Finally the K&N filters are early 90s style with the single screw, another clue that everything is not all it seems. Regardless buyer beware, It doesn't add up for me.

I looked at that car and the MOT history is interesting, including an advisory on not needing an emissions test. This only applies to amateur builds pre SVA (1998). The car just doesn't add up to me. I can't see how it's on the road without some very friendly MOT testers. I would say buyer beware.

I was in a similar position at the beginning of the year, my car is a 93 1700 SuperSprint, that had only cover 6868 miles, and almost non since 2003. I spent the winter going over all the essentials, and replacing hoses, belts and bushes. Since then I have been building up the miles for next weekend, were the plan is Donnington followed by a few days in Wales. I know its not as far, but its still way more miles and continuous hours than it's done for years, and I am confident because I have built up the miles and trust since spring. Given your car was rebuilt in 2016, I think you have less to worry about. Parts tend to either fail quickly, or give good service life, and it sounds like your car is in that window of "good service life" since the rebuild. Obviously the cars track record isn't great in France, but I would be confident if you can get a few miles done before you go. Also there are plenty of older cars running around France and the rest of Europe, so I am sure sourcing that obscure part won't be impossible if the worst should happen.

Agreed, but the problem with the statement, "take parts that are difficult to get" probably covers most parts on the car. Whilst clutch cables and throttle cables are common to fail, they are also easy to inspect, any fraying even if it's a single strand, replace them. The same (providing you can get originals) for the dizzy cap, rotor arm, leads and plugs, they are all service items. Fuel lines and hoses, or almost anything rubber should have also been replaced along with braided brake lines as again theses are all service items. What I am trying to say is a well serviced car won't need parts carried just in case, just a backup plan (recovery cover) if the unexpected happens.

I would start with making sure the setup is correct and all components are functioning correctly before upgrading. So basically getting a flat floor setup and any bump steer issues resolved, then evaluate the need for an upgrade.

Stick to genuine parts if you can, they are poor even from Land Rover/Ford, so cheeping down is only going to lead to trouble https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-PCF000012

You should be able to remove the nyloc from the stud using two pain nuts tightened against each other, then holding one, unwind the nyloc. That is assuming things haven't escalated to far already

Just a word of caution, the expansion cap seal is very thin, and has been known to wear. You can't over tighten it either due to the ratchet. Be prepared for a potential cap leak, you will initially see signs of coolant in the expansion tank seam. Given the number of times you must have removed and refitted that cap during your cooling issues it's likely to play up on those hot stuck in traffic days. If you are looking for a replacement, avoid cheap eBay knock offs, stick to Rover (or Ford) genuine caps for some sort of quality guarantee.

The current wing stays have a different brace to yours. Yours are flat, the current ones have a small lip to increase strength (I assume). Not sure if Redline or Arch can supply original design items.

Order mine from Ford Trust, sold on eBay, £35 delivered next day.

Your see that on every modern dedion setup with 13 x 8 rear wheels. I believe it's stones, if you had massive play in the wheel bearing there would also be evidence on the disc / caliper. Also wheel bearing play would not pass IVA, I am assuming your car is relatively modern because the dedion face is clean.

You can request owner information from DVLA if you have legitimate reason to do so. https://www.gov.uk/request-information-from-dvla

Yes, a friends 420R did exactly the same. It was a faulty coil driver in the ECU, proved with the use of my ECU (our cars were of a similar age). It happened at a track day. That said wiring loom faults are also no that uncommon, so check everything if you haven't got access to a spare ECU. MBE repaired the ECU for a modest price.

There was a pin hole in the lead insulator. Hope the gaffer tape fix got you home.

Yep had them on since May this year, including driving to the 40th Anniversary in dreadful conditions. I was pleasantly surprised with the wet grip, but I was taking it easy. They also cope well on the Essex blats. Happy with my choice, but I wanted a period look, over the last word in grip and performance, and they have delivered that.

They still list the narrow buttress tube https://caterhamparts.co.uk/de-dion-tube/2588-de-dion-tube-s3-90-92-narrow-buttress.html

I believe the Narrow Buttress tube is what your looking for. It has both lower and middle mounting points for the shocks and was recommended to me by Arch for my 93 car. It's also stronger than the original being made of thicker steel. Not sure about drum brakes on a dedion car, I have never seen that.

I bought a box of disposable 3M ear plugs about 8 years ago. Still working my way through them.

Depending on spec you might have to remove the radiator supports. If it's stuck and likely to need force to remove, I might be included to remove the radiator to prevent damage. In general the front ARB can be removed without removing the rad, but working on older cars things can escalate quickly.

It's been replaced with a more reliable sensor. Part number CAT-SP-0038AK Also cheaper than the old part. https://caterhamparts.co.uk/senders/6707-rear-wheel-speed-sensor-kit-de-dion-cars.html?search_query=Speed+sensor&results=160

Based on your post, I would remove the diff bracing, on the assumption that it's not a massively involved job. The purpose being to identify the winter change that amplified the noise. That spacer is only for Mazda gearbox cars, so to relevant to your car.

I just use the isolator with caution, no longer every time I stop, but definitely when I park it way for the week. I think the lambda sensor has more of a hard time due to its positioning, and the cat suffers from the pops and bangs more than being overly rich at startup.

I found battery Isolation clears the fuel trims, and it takes a long time after isolation for the lambda values to fall into an acceptable range for closed loop control. While the lambda values are ignored the base map is used and this appears to be on the rich side. Basically every time you isolate the battery you elongate the time taken to enter closed loop control.

Not sure about that, but it looks like a remake of a Smiths heater, the core looks identical to a Triumph Spitfire heater. I think given how rare they are it might be time to look for someone who can rebuild it.

The low voltage on the brake light switch could be a sign of a bad earth, and the circuit is earthing back through the brake lights (and the other bulbs). It may be worth removing the fuse again popping the meter on the switch and seeing if you can remove that small voltage with a cleanup of the rear light earth connections.