ChrisC

I have a DIY TuffTalk, it's ok and does the job. The biggest problem is it's bulky and the boom mic likes to fall off ( a lot ), hence in the end I purchased a proper TuffTalk, and yes supply is a major problem. As for the PTT, I am lucky or unlucky enough to have a few Sena product including the SR10, which means my PTT button can be almost anywhere I want it. I tend to on mine on handbrake. I have not used the TuffTalk built in PTT button. If I remember I will post a picture of the setup on Tuesday, I am using the setup while driving to an IVA so I will have other things on my mind.

Yep looks like you have found them. Black is your earth. Green 12v +ve (Ignition switched) and White Black the tach feed.

Hi Andy By 2015 the wiring diagrams published in the build manuals where way out of date, they where with my 2011 ex-academy car. Caterham uses "commonly used British car wiring colours" so a reference like this https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/page/commonly_used_british_vehicle_wiring_colours will help a lot. Obviously checking with a multi meter is the best approach. As a 2015 car, I would imagine your car is fitted with the connector for the sequential shift light option, The connector should be identifiable by the White/Black wire which is the tacho feed, and should be in the area your looking (i.e. behind the tacho, near the steering column) Hope this helps

2 year is EU law, so its 2 years on kits as well.

Or you could reverse the drop link and fit it with the old spacer, if you want to use the softest setting. https://caterhamparts.co.uk/fixings/435-mounting-boss-rear-anti-roll-bar.html

Agreed with all above. I check by wiggling the steering wheel and feeling the joints mentioned above. Normally you can feel movement if you can't see it. I suspect it's the quick release steering wheel boss, which to some extent is normal. I always apply a little grease to the splines for MOT time which helps mask the problem.

A lot will depend on the chassis age and power train combination, for example a Mazda derived gearbox won't fit is a chassis which is not designed for that gearbox, but a Type-9 (or 6 speed) will fit in either. The chassis engine mount locations should be the same, obviously the engine mounts will be different. The exhaust hole may be different, so you may need a side skin (or custom exhaust / headers), the problem is that's dependent on the EU spec, something I am not that familiar with. It's the EU spec changes that really throws the spanner into the works, I would be more confident if the cars where UK spec.

Not sure what JK has sent, but I can confirm you can recalibrate your speedo. You have to press and hold the button while the ignition is switched on. This will display a number which is essentially the number of pulses per mile. There is an official chart showing the correct setting based on the tyres used, but this only covers tyres used by CC. When I got my 2011 car I compared my sat nav speed to the speedo speed. My speedo was 5% over, so all I did was reduce the number by 5%. This resulted in a speedo that was 1mph under sat nav speed at 30mph and 2mph under sat nav speed at 70mph. I can't confirm how accurate that is, all I can say is I never got a ticket in that car.

And what I am saying is you need to take that up with your dealer. You drove that car back from the dealer to the IOM. On that drive did you only get 50miles to the tank, because the cooling system design hasn't changed since then? It is however entirely possible a £5 thermostat has failed or was poorly fitted, but that's what warranty is there for. You may not be the only owner experiencing that problem, but before the design is questioned, and you take maters into your own hands, consider your car is still under warranty. Don't give CC a "get out of jail free" card on any warranty claims made with your car. If you feel there isn't a fault and the 50miles to the tank is a design problem, I would speak / seek out the people who know, so much more about these car than the hobbiest that comment on forums and facebook (like myself). You need to speak to people who know. As an aside there is no way your car would pass IVA on emissions if lambda wasn't working properly during the test, so it makes me fell like we are talking about nothing more that a failed component, or even a batch of failed components.

18 pages about how rubbish the car is, and how rubbish CC is, and a guy complaining his 58K car has only done 650 miles, blah blah and the truth is we don't know is there is an issue or not??? Typical Blatchat. Personally If it was my car I would want to speak (yes speak) to people that designed the installation, they are on the Facebook groups, and are helpful people.

The last 310 I worked on had a catch tank at the front under the nose cone. Sigmas are well know to breath while on track, mine did. I would want to fit a catch tank.

Both my 360R and 420R are wired as you describe. If I wanted to have an override switch I would look to control the Fan Relay (or add a second Fan Relay). But I would want to know why you feel the need for the override in the first place. Is the ECU not doing a good job?

Thanks, that's simple enough

Any pointers for the testing process?

You have two options for PMR, the simplest is a lead which plug into the Tufftalk and then into the PMR. PMR support is built into the TuffTalk (unlike any other Sena). Or you can use the SR10, which allows the PMR to be accessed by any Sena via Bluetooth. I have a SR10 because I owned it before I purchased my TuffTalk.

Basically if I was starting again, Two Sena Tufftalks, no wires job done.

I have a Sena Tufftalk, a Sena SPH10 and a pair of Sena SMH5 and a Sena SR10 I started with the pair of SMH5, attached to a helmet, my car was aero at the time. I still used earplug, but the volume was more than enough to listen to music, hold conversations between driver and passenger and talk on the PMR radio (via the SR10) with other blaters. The only downside was the volume I was using because of the earplugs which meant your conversation was easily overheard by passers by, so you had to be careful of your comments ;-). When I switched to a windscreen I purchased the SPH10. The SPH10 was the most disappointing, even with all the firmware updates it has a hiss noise during use, I actual think the unit is faulty given how good the rest of my Sena stuff is. It almost prevented me from purchasing what in my opinion is the best unit, the Tufftalk. I tried fitting an SMH5 to a Peltor Optime III, it does work, but the resulting unit was a bit cumbersome. The Tufftalk has all the advantages of the other units but also includes active and passive noise cancellation. Now I can listen to music and hear real quality in the sound while driving (the boring bits) my 7. All the Sena units have batteries that last all day, but the Tufftalk comes with an interchangeable spare (and space for AAs in an emergency). The Tufftalk is expensive, so I only have one. If I have a passenger I will use the SPH10, and I will give the passenger the Tufftalk, mainly because I know how to fit earplugs.

So just fired my brain read about SAE grades. If I have this right, a 75w140 is the same when cold, but thicker when hot, than 75w85. In comparison to a straight 90, which is only measured when hot, 75w140 is thicker when hot, but the 90 would be thicker cold. This might explain why, a, The 90 is quieter for road use b. Why the Motul 75w140 is described as competition gear oil, i.e. get it hot. Knowing 75w140 is BMW's spec for M cars, and Motul 75w140 is Titans recommend diff oil I suppose I will be sticking with that for now. Every time I think that diff sounds loud I will have to remind myself its because I am not pushing it on hard enough.

Interesting. I just looked up a 1 Series (E82 120i assumption) diff oil on realoem.com and got the BMW part number 83222295532. 83222295532 is Hypoid Axle Oil G1 SAE 75W-85. Genuine £20 per 0.5 liter, but you need 0.8 liter, so a £40 experiment plus LSD additive (which I already have). Surely that will make it as quiet as possible.

In general yes, the noise is normal. Each car seems to be different, so some are quieter than others.

Yes plastic on a S3. I noted the SV version and their price.

https://caterhamparts.co.uk/fittings/599-pin-wind-deflectors.html?search_query=Pin&results=50 CC would be My source, at £1.88 and £0.88p for the plastic base I would replace all. Obviously I am sure Redline would also be able to help

Yer what 7 wonders said.

Every days a school day :-) Based on that information there is a load more things to which could introduce driveline noise, like gearbox mounts and engine mounts. If It was my car, I would remove the diff in the carrier, torque the diff in the carrier (off the car), refit the diff in carrier, replacing the spacing washers. replace the engine and gearbox mounts. Basically a full reset.

It might be worth doing a quick spanner check on the diff and the diff carrier, if you haven't already, because it's not uncommon for the bolts to work a little lose over time.