ChrisC

The IKEA build manuals are not all they are cracked up to be. Having just built two kits in four years, and worked on several others, the latest Duratec IKEA manual leaves a lot to be desired. When it was released I raised over 30 mistakes / observations with CC, from the manual not covering changes to front suspension, missing build steps, to swapping half way through the manual to a Sigma build and back again. I listed all of these on a blog post. Which has proven to be very popular.

They are 2019 diagrams from CC sent to me during my build to help resolve electrical issues I had. Unfortunately I don't have a full set, and they are not public domain so not mine to share. The diagrams in the 2015 (b and c) build manuals are only good for the first generation on Duratec / Sigma cars, that said in most instances that's fine. Lets face it the lights and wipers haven't changed much over the year. The problem comes with the new modules added, dash control module for example, and where the looms have been adapted to simplify production of the different models and options. Even my "standard" (non 620) dash car has a dash control module, which I have no clue what its doing.

Instrument 5v reference power supply resistor is my guess. The isolator resistor is much larger and located on the back of the isolator switch. The wiring diagram is well out of date because your 2016 car will have three looms, engine, chassis and dash, where as that diagram is based on a car with just two looms (engine and chassis) and a MFU. I don't actually know when they stopped fitting MFUs but my 2011 car didn't have one. On the old diagram there used to be Resistor A and Resistor B on the chassis loom, Resistor A is 68 Ohm, and connected to the Tacho and Resistor B is 1KOhm as is the speed pulse (connected to the Speedo). The resistor in your photo is 68R so that's why I assume its the Tacho reference power supply to the auxiliary instruments. With it removed does your temperature gauge and oil pressure still work correctly? I only have the current chassis and engine wiring diagrams, and these resistors have been moved to the dash loom, so can't be 100% sure.

I am posting this here just in case someone is looking for fun car (loud when you want it to be), or if a member knows someone looking, If you have seen my blog, you will know how I keep my cars and this JCW is no exception, It's a 2018 MINI F56 JCW. It‘s one of the last pre gas particulate filter cars, i.e. built before the WLTP changes, so can and therefore has a dealer-fitted JCW Pro Exhaust, all under warranty. The spec is: White Silver with Red roof, Tech Pack (Navigation Plus, Head up display, Harmon Kardon, Cruise Control) Chilly Pack (18” Wheels, JCW Sports Seats, Climate Control, Rain Sensor and Automatic lights) Sun Protection Glass, Heated seats, Mini Yours Fibre Alloy (Including extended door mood lighting), Cooper Stripes Accessories included: JCW Pro Exhaust (and the original) Genuine Rubber Floor Mats (and Original Carpet Floor Mats, unused) Genuine Boot liner Genuine Luggage net Genuine Sports Antenna (Original available) It’s done 8754 miles. It has a TLC pack and the next service is due in 16,000 miles or 09/2021. There is still 3 months of MINI warranty remaining. I am looking for £18750.

From the Caterham Parts website, it appears heated screens have a dark blue and either black or light blue wires. It looks like your screen has a light blue wire. The chassis loom connections for the heated screen are a black wire (B22) near the wiper motor connection and a green pink wire (GK97) near the diagnostic port.

Hope we can meet soon at the club night (restrictions permitting). Building a car is a journey, not always one that follows the expected path. I am sure you and your son will have a fantastic experience and the sense of pride a joy you get when your car passes IVA is fantastic. Oh and nice car choices, can't wait to see it :-)

Every 150 I have ever worked on, I have always put a small piece of hose (open one end) onto the barometric sensor, to stop direct water strike hits from above, damaging the sensor. The other "open end" of the hose I tuck down so that it points to the ground. I have no evidence this would or would not protect the sensor, but always made me feel better.

A pin punch set is about £6 -10, one will fit perfectly. However you might need two sets, depending on how tight the locking ring is.

If you look at Daniel's blog photo, which shows the rubber bung from the original Tillet seat fitting holes. You can see the 620R seat holes are drilled about 2 - 3 cm back, assuming the photo is taken from the passenger side. I think the photo is taken from the passenger side because the exhaust isn't present, and I think you can see a rear wheel blurred in the background. I have no other evidence other than this photo from 2016, but I suspect it shows the 620R seats have the runners fitted further back in the floor plan, and this is the cause of your problem. Personally I would contact CC to gain advice about fitting a crutch straps with 620R seats and lowered floors, but understand this may be complex. I have found photos of 620R seats with crutch straps from google image searches, so it must be possible.

They are 100% different, the standard Tillet doesn't have the captive nuts holding them to the floor. What the dimensional differences are, I don't know because I have never seen the two parts side by side, What I do know is when I spoke to the factory about my build, and spoke about the runners and the possibility to using the 620 runners on the standard Tillets they said it wasn't possible.

What we do know is the holes for the 620 seat are drilled in a different location to the standard Tillet seat, so even if the runner is the same dimensions it's in a different location. http://www.caterhamr500.co.uk/2016/03/620r-countersunk-seat-fasteners.html Daniel French posted about it on his blog in 2016.

Also, the assembly guide doesn't cover your seat or runners. The runners and seats illustrated are the standard (or R500) Tillets. You have the Tillets introduced with the 620R which have different runners fitted with captive nuts. Has anyone installed the crutch strap with the 620R seats? I installed them on standard Tillets years ago with no problem, then again the amount of movement you get on a Tillet is limited at best.

So just for reference, to use a BaoFeng UV-5R in the UK you would need a Amateur Radio license (Ham Radio). A BaoFeng UV-5R isn't a PMR radio, it's too powerful and has a removable antenna, features which mean it can't be classed as a PMR. Search "PMR 446 License free" to find a vast range of radios you can use without a license.

I am using the DPR single screw mounts for the SPA mirrors. Very neat solution and no drilling.

It can also rattle against the hole in the foot well and eat through the grommet. Once it does the noise is horrendous. The solution is as above, rotate the rack a bit. If it was my car I think I would look to borrow a chassis ear to pinpoint where the noise is coming from. I still suspect brakes.

Agreed, this I would only attempt it with a lift (which I don't have). I just couldn't get the car high enough to make working in that confined space possible without mistakes. For me it would be engine out.

Alex official parts for your car Heater https://caterhamparts.co.uk/heater/5380-heater-assembly-s3-sv-csr.html?search_query=Heater&results=33 Heater Valve https://caterhamparts.co.uk/heater/333-heater-bypass-valve.html?search_query=Heater&results=33 Valve pull cable https://caterhamparts.co.uk/heater/2397-heater-control-cable.html?search_query=Heater&results=33 You will also need a hand full of hose clips, a right angle hose (and some off cut) to connect the submarine to the heater and then back down to the modine oil cooler. The blanking panel will need to be removed, which will be riveted under the scuttle, Once removed the scuttle will need to be re-riveted. Alternatively 12v heater jacket liner plugged into the car. Hope this helps

Hi Andy If it runs for a few seconds, there should be some data coming from the MBE which shows the reason. If you connect the EasyMap software, add all the data panels so everything possible is being logged, try and start it, then save the data. The data files could then be shared. I still have some data files from my 150 which I could compare your car with, happy to look at the data to see if there is anything obvious. Chris.

I can't help think the immobiliser is fine if it primes and runs for a few seconds. The fuel pump is controlled by the ECU, it wont run is the engine isn't running. So it makes me think the MBE isn't happy the engine is running. Have you connected it to EasyMap to see whats going on? I could be wrong about the immobiliser. I owned a 2011 150 Sigma, and I remember a fault which would cause the engine to die, which was caused by the speed sensor. The sensor would fail, kill a fuse and that would take the permanent supply out from the engine and tacho. Check your fuses, if you one blown and it keeps blowing disconnect your speed sensor and try again.

Before the hares are set running again, its fair to say preload is part of diff setup/setting, choose by CC and Titan. It appear my lat 2019 kit, with 1000 miles on the clock and Marks 2019 car with 3900 miles share the same preload setting. My preload was first tested (with the same reading) post IVA, which was at 200 miles so as close to new OOTB as you can get. Basically what's now being questioned is CC's setup.

Since my 1000 mile diff read exactly the same reading on the same brand torque wrench. I was being to suspect the reason my diff is noisier than other sintered plate diffs I have heard (even with RRT Oil) is maybe my preload is on the high side. I might try adding an extra dose of LSD additive, I have some in my spares collection, worst case I do another diff oil change.

Unfortunately not, it was a 2017 car.

My last car had a Titan BMW Carbon diff, and I feel dodged a bullet. but, and its a big BUT the noise difference between the two plates is excessive. If I had my previous car, and knowing what I know now, at rebuild time, sintered plates wouldn't be at the top of my list. The only saving grace would be increased life expectancy.

I know this doesn't help, but my diff is exactly the same, I was advised to would be, while I was at the Factory back in 2019. Its the same as recent YouTube vids of the Caterham 420R demo car, and my cars diff noises where present and heard (you can't miss them) during PBC at Gatwick. So I can't call TADT, but I know three cars that do. The reason I feel Marks car is important is the mileage and use are known. He can give a clear indication of potential life expectancy increase (or not). If we had a 2018 car, again with known usage even better. My "X" statement is ambiguous because apart from the quoted life of the Titan parts website, we don't know a life expectancy for the sintered plates. The 10,000 miles quoted by Titan looks achievable, with the carbon plates based on road only and lower power, but its not specific. Is it best case, worst case, average, Sintered or Carbon???? The text doesn't change based on your selection. Moly plates comment comes from a reason to upgrade. This thread has obviously impacted a large number of owners, who will have choices to make. Hopefully it gets the information out there to prevent the catastrophic failures we are seeing at the moment, and brings them more in line with scheduled rebuilds. My hope is the owner (member) gets to make an informed choice. They can chose the Sintered route, knowing a life expectancy of X years, knowing about the bangs and clonks whenever they try to drive in normal traffic flow. Or they seek a Moly plate option, I believe SP Component Tracsport has Moly plates (happy to be correct on that one), but there are others for the BMW 168, Drexler for example, not sure what Cusco uses. Who knows CC/Titan could be working on such a change, it can't be good having demonstrations cars sounding like a bag of bolts are loose behind your ears.

Sorry for not being specific, it was for Mark. I know Titan LSD are failing at the moment, and must have been for sometime because CC changed the spec in 2018, this must have been prompted by something. Marks car is Titan BMW with Sintered plates, and posts about impending failure. We know from this thread so far 1, Titan Sierra Carbon diff can give long service life. (2009 example on the verge of rebuild needed) 2, Titan BMW Carbon diff can give short service life, plenty of examples of 2015-2017 cars failing based on mileage and use. What's unclear from the experience on here is the life of Titan BMW Sintered diffs, as fitted post 2018. Mine only has 1000 miles, so doesn't count. Marks 420 on the other hand has more known miles and is an early indicator of the expected real world experience owners can expect. We need 2018 cars with known history, to report their experiences. I totally understand the anger and frustration of owning a Titan BMW with Carbon plates, and the choices members have made. Do we have to wait until Sintered plates start failing before seeing the bigger picture or can we as a collected group get some data together on wear rates for the current solution. I would like to think we could, although this might not be the agenda. Imagine the 2017 owner reading this thread, testing their diff, finding a reading in the low 20's, and having a choice to make. Knowing X years is a realistically achievable, but at the expense of increased noise, over replacement with better quality molybdenum plates, will be a personal choice, but an informed one.