ChrisC
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Everything posted by ChrisC
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I am worried about the damage this thread does. I have been running Titan diffs since my return to Caterham ownership in 2012, with no failures or problems. I was quoting others that have posted, but you seem to be suggesting I personally attacking your decision to upgrade. I am not.
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I am glad all you Tracsport owners are so passionate about your upgrade, but remember you are at the same time stirring needless worry in the minds of new and potential owners. The life blood of Caterham and this club. I have had a number of new builders contact me directly, worried about something being wrong with their car after these threads. I see no new information here, only rehashing old well-known issues. I am not worried about my Titan diff, nor should any owner of a car post 2018.
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Steve WAS recommending Titan for BMW. https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/bmw-open-diff-swap-lsd And it seems BIASSED posting Tracsport Ford information when Titan Ford references are dismissed. Tracsport BMW only released sometime in 2018, I stand corrected on this date, but at the time your post didn't seem to generate any interest. https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/bmw-final-drives-lsd The fact remains, Tracsport BMW products released to the market are only as old as the Titan reworked units fitted to ALL Caterham R models (except 620) since 2018, and so far there has been no reported premature failure since this update.
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WOW before Caterham released the BMW diff in the Seven, that's impressive. So he had worked out the fitment of the 168 BMW diff to a Caterham, which even after release took a few redesigns before the cage and back plate where finally sorted.
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Yep - You can't post Titan and Diff on a Caterham forum without the Tracsportati hijacking the post. After all the BMW Tracsport was only released last year, and its creator this time last year would have been recommending a Titan, FYI other things to avoid, Best Engine, SV vs S3, Tyres etc etc, oh and actually being positive about anything Caterham does (with the exception of keeping the car alive for 48 years) .
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If you have two bleed nipples on you front calipers, do outside then inside. Assuming its a DeDion car, the biggest problem is the rears, which love to retain air because of the mounting location (i.e. not as per the host Ford Sierra), its not so much of a problem with a fluid change assuming there is no air in there already. So don't let the reservoir run low during the bleed. If you suspect air in the rear calipers, get your helper to vigorously apply and release the hand brake a few times each time they press the pedal down.
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Agreed. It's like we have a new splinter group, the Tracsportati.
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No, I think because I pressed the reply button you get an email ;-). And I missed your PM :-)
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I fear your right, and we both know where this is going. The only benefit of a preload check would be to give a quantifiable number which you can used to pursue your warranty claim with. Obviously if you don't have the socket or torque wrench don't worry about it, but if you do then it could be valuable information for your claim. I have to ask, who (names not needed) are you intending to pursue the warranty claim with? 5000 miles isn't a lot, but age wise its long left CC manufacturers warranty. Thank you for you kind words on the blog. I hope you get your diff sorted.
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Jeff have you done a pre load check? But agree it does sound like a rebuild is required. What age is your supersport R.
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I would recommend purchasing the lead (from SBD Motorsport) and downloading EasyMap from their website. Assuming you have a PC, if you are a Mac users things become a little more complicated. As the ECU is locked, you can't do any damage or make changes plugging into the ECU with EasyMap, so it's totally safe to play and discover what the ECU is doing. You will be able to data log and see live data from the ECU, which is perfect for fault diagnostics. You can always sell your lead if you see no value owning it.
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Error from the Lambda sensor status, sounds like you have found your problem. The Lambda sensor closed loop idle won't start until the Lambda timer has completed (30 seconds from memory) and the coolant is above 60c. Each time the car is switched off and started again the lambda timer starts again. So with a warm engine you only have to wait for the lambda timer, but a cold engine needs the coolant to warm up. You can look at the lambda voltage, which once working closed loop should oscillate, showing its controlling the fuelling. only Error I have ever seen meant a replacement was needed. beware of cheap alternatives and fake parts from eBay and Amazon.
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Ok, happy to help get your car running correctly, assuming it's a standard Duratec Caterham, but I am based in Essex so it's a fair trek for you.
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Has it failed? It's just a push fit once the screw has been removed, so it should pull off, unless someone has glued it in place.
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Has any owner reported a problem with the late 2018 synter plate BMW Titan yet? The only hard evidence pre load numbers published where from mine (i.e. <1000 miles) and Mark's 1 year old car, and both where identical. I haven't seen any reports of failures. Obviously I have seen and observed plenty of carbon plate failures. Just for reference, I currently have a driveshaft warranty claim in progress, I am waiting for parts. I suspect they would have rejected my claim if I had an aftermarket diff fitted. Has anyone had any experience of Drexler LSDs? They are made to order, and offer a 168 BMW unit. Just don't know how tuneable they are.
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Provided your start motor and alternator connections are covered you will be fine. I know these are Duratec photos, but it illustrates the point Starter Motor https://caterham420detailedbuildblog.files.wordpress.com/2019/12/img_3227.jpg Alternator below
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Academy cars are R (my 2011 one was anyway), and they have to be road registered to race.
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Academy cars are R (my 2011 one was anyway), and they have to be road registered to race.
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IKEA manual doesn't even tell you to fit the gearstick which I think is needed for IVA :-)
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Brett where is it booked in? If it's Gillingham I would say no, but I suspect other locations is a maybe. Might be worth downloading and reading the IVA testers manual from M1 class.
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My first thought would be to check the Throttle Bodies balance. If that's out the ECU can't control the emissions. Then I would be looking at the ECU live data to check for errors or figures outside normal. A resistance reading from a sensor is not a great way to test for faults because what's important is how the ECU is seeing a value. Ie a perfect sensor won't work if there is a broken wire. Another assumption is your cat is warm, and the lambda startup cycle is complete before the test was carried out. Finally you did replace the lambda sensor with a genuine Rover or Bosch part, not an eBay cheap special?
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I have no evidence of the coil packs touching the coil cover. I would expect some witnesses marks if it was. It took a fair bit of effort altering the coil pack wiring, and adjusting the fit of the cover, to make clearance happen. Don't forget the nose cone foam, make sure it's in good condition and supports the bonnet fold lip to lift the bonnet a tiny bit, and foam under the side edges of the bonnet also lifts it a bit. I would hate a painted coil cover because things are that tight any mistake would ruin the effect.
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The coil pack cover is the most likely candidate for touching the bonnet. The spacer is 3mm, so no where near 27mm.
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I got the details from another kit builder, including all the dimensions. I spoke to CC after sales about it to see if was a possible cause of my vibration, who initially where unaware of the enhancement. They later confirmed after checking with the factory the enhancement was for gearbox clearance and not prop working angle. Adding that spacer would be way cheaper fix for my car, so it would have been in CC's benefit to do so, but its not even being considered. At the moment is doesn't even have a part number (or one that has been published), so you can't even get it from CC parts, but when you can, I will be adding one to my car (at my cost).
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This is the new spacer that's been added to the Mazda gearbox mount. It's my understanding the spacer was introduced sometime 2020 / 2021 to increase clearance around the Mazda gearbox. I wondered if it had been added to alter the prop working angle, but apparently not, so it's not on my priority list at the moment, because I am currently looking at a road speed vibration issue with my car. That said, if you raise the gearbox tail it must lower the front of the engine in front of the mounts. I will add one next time I have to remove the gearbox mount.
