Tiddy7

I have fitted indicator fuses that glow when they have blown, as I was so fed up with pulling all fuses to find the failed one They are pretty cheap and have had no issues with them

https://www.originalcaferacer.com/product/lotus-caterham-morgan-led-headlight-pair-5-75″-e-approved-530/ these are the lights i use, you get a 10% discount from a pop up

Many people use the original cafe racer shop LED headlights, £115 for a pair , and as good as the Caterham ones. Ive fitted 2 pairs to different cars and can vouch for how good they are

no it is not 1.48 kg, they are basing the 3 kg lighter on the original 7.2kg, so it may well have been 4.2kg , anything below about 3kg would be horrible to drive, Also remember its all about rotational inertial so a 4kg flywheel with all the weight at the edge is far worse than a 4kg flywheel with all the weight as a point mass at the centre , so not all kgs are the same !

I would go 6” all round unless you have over 200 bhp

That looks about normal for Caterham powder coating, I'm surprised that it lasted that long!

I never had any issues with vibration with a slimmed down pulley, but I never went above 8k revs

what's the second set of grooves driving from the crank pulley? , I machined my pulley down and saved about half a kilo

I’m looking for a harness to match the one below, caterham don’t sell them any more, had anyone got one available, must have black metalwork and red latch, drivers side preferred but will take either

Try charging the battery, or testing the battery voltage. my car (160s) before I bought it, apparently use to give these codes when left for a while and the battery voltage dropped, fine once reset. I fitted a master cut out switch and also ditched the ignition key, never had the problem since

Bill, I'm in just north of Bristol BS36 2SL let me know if you want any help. Dave did a very good job of fine tuning my Duratec which was running on an old standard of emerald and TBs, (I did the original mapping ) I have done many map corrections at home via my laptop, but as I have now sold that car and have a 160S I no longer need access to emerald ECUs except for helping other club members. your welcome to borrow the laptop for a few months. Simon

If you are near bristol, Dave at interpro will sort you out, he’s well versed with emeralds , I can also lend you a laptop, cable and adapter if needed

It does annoy when the answer to how expensive public charging is, is 'oh you should never use a public charger' and that you should always charge at home on your special rate from your bank of solar panels. That's all very well, but over 75% of all car users in the uk will never have the ability to charge their EVs at home due to not having off street parking, or living in a flat, or living in rented property etc . So we are basically saying that if you are rich, own your own house, have nice off street parking and charging facility then running an EV is cheap, however if your poor then you have to pay 6x more per mile....

many people say that but its really hard to find any hard detailed of what people do, I have found an 800cc stroker kit though

so from the wiring diagram we have 244 and 235 which I have confirmed to be +12v and ground but the WB207 pin is connected direct to the ECU but seems to only give a constant 2.5 Volts, I was hoping for either a switched ground or switched +ve, but may be it needs to be initiated in the ECU, Anyone have any experience of this ? I do need to check what it does if I go up to the rev limit though