Miker7

Does welding affect the heat treatment of the head at all? I'm aware we are all concerned about them over heating and warping, welding will be a much higher temperature (but more localised).

I don't think you can use a feeler gauge. They want to be tight enough to hold on the carbs, but not so tight the carbs can't move if rocked. The idea is they insulate the carb from the engine to reduce vibration and frothing of the fuel. If you can rock the carbs 10mm up or down, they're too lose. If you can rock them a few mm they're probably about right. An alternative view is the metal cups on the bolts should be squished so they're between 1 to 2mm apart.

you learn something new every day, I thought SAE R9 hose was the 'go to' but the DIN hose has a higher burst pressure. I normally buy this sort of thing from Advanced Fluid Solutions. I've heard (not saying they're true) stories when E10 came out of ebay fuel hose being lower grades that have higher grades printed on them.

triumph spitfire pads will be front pads (if that wasn't obvious) sierra is rear pad Filter is for a rover k series or montego/maestro/marina/discovery/ morgan plus 4 (we actually share parts with a morgan so we can say yes we're a morgan when asked) etc

Where abouts in the country are you? I'm wondering if there is someone local who could pop round and offer moral support & maybe help.

How much rear vision do people have. I find it's not great normally, and with these setups I'm suspecting it's almost non existent.

Id normally point you to Matt at ProComp motorsport here. He supported a lot of the 750 motor club racers and had a good reputation from most (he would get on his high horse and annoy some people - especially about roll cages for which he was on the MSA committee). One of his services was dyno testing shocks and recalibrating them. He'd happily bend your ear for an hour without selling you anything, telling you more than you ever wanted to know about shocks and racing. Unfortunately he passed away recently. The summary of my last conversation was typically him. I was asking about him supplying some Protech shocks for road use as it didn't seem cost effective to buy the adjustable collars for the existing Bilsteins. He told me to buy direct from Protech, drive them for a few months and only then if i wasn't happy to bring them to him. He'd happily revalve, change the oil and provide dyno sheets to confirm they were all the same for not a lot of money, but he didn't think it was worth it for my use so didn't try to sell to me. If you're chasing the last 0.1s then i'm sure very expensive shocks will assist. If you're trying to get to the pub or enjoy a track day I suspect the Protechs will be fine. Another member on here has just bought Protechs. It would be worth you talking to him. (and if you've got adjustable collars on your Bilsteins - i'll have them off you for 50p and a packet of crisps)

This now has me wondering when my 2002 hubs had a service ...... and i'm off out in 10 minutes, cross your fingers for me & is their somewhere with details of what you need to do / a Haynes manual i can steal the instructions from?

Additional thought - did you change any wiring to use the new headlights? Where are you checking for voltage - could it be the new wiring is at fault and if you go backwards on the loom you'll find the original wiring is ok.

Indicator relay is different to the lights, so both wouldn't fail at the same time normally. Fuses are supposed to protect the wiring so are you sure you're checking the correct fuses? The fuses (i'm deliberately saying plural) are the only logical things to fail in my mind.

"We can also supply the hubs with a Ford PCD (4 1/4" or 108mm)." - from the website, although the list of products doesn't list 108 as an option, maybe if you call them they'll offer it.

Why 2 1/4" at the rear and not 1.9" like the front?

Thank you all. I'll go back to saving the pennies for the lowered floor instead.

The rear dedion clearance looks great. What's the clearance to the drive shaft like on full droop? Please can you share what you specified (part numbers etc) and confirm you have Widetrack suspension?

I've heard these often have hard standing for the cars to rest on - no worries them getting a bad nights sleep with tickly grass between the treads or hurting their sumps on bumps in a field.