AlastairA

Not sure if they still do them but I use a CTek battery monitor that connects to your phone via Bluetooth and provides a charge status graph over time. Quite handy to keep an eye on during the off-season. Also sends a notification if a charge is required. Just straps straight across the battery.

I would suggest the grounding connections.

Looks great Ben - tidy build too! How's the induction noise?

No the reversing light switch is the one closer to the engine bay - green/white and green/black loom wires in the photo that connect to the blue wires which disappear into the gearbox.

No - not connected to the loom John. They connect via the visible blue wires to a switch within the gearbox which provides a "Neutral" indication.

Yes they are - you can just see the loom tie-wrapped to the gearbox housing and disappearing off the bottom of the picture.

Hi Jonathan - just posted the below image on another thread - mine is a 2023 supplied kit. As you can see, the switch has two terminals and I believe that when reverse is selected, it simply connects the two terminals together. Unsure if this is ground or live.

That's correct Craig - photo of my installation:

For me: 13" - pressures are 23 psi all round. Coolant temp when driving is around 95C - fan should cut in at 100C Oil pressure is rev dependent - idle is around 2.5 bar, goes up 4 bar with higher revs. Enjoy your drive!!

Thanks James - so a temperature of around 80C at that point would be good? I'm planning on wiring up the sender at the bottom of the tank and trying to get a feel for what a sensible oil temp should be for road use, and therefore decide whether to block the airflow over the oil cooler.

Mind if I ask where you're measuring the oil temp - using the sender at the bottom of the tank, or elsewhere?

Just in case it helps - I had a squeal too for a while and found the cause was the saddle clip kept coming dislodged. I had reform the spring metal to make it a tighter fit, which solved the issue.

Hi Ainsley - the wiring for the Aces is very straightforward. The Aces control box comes with spade connectors ready to plug into the loom. There is a +12V supply, earth and tacho feed terminated in spade connectors as part of the standard 420 loom. Mine were tie wrapped together just under the dash near the ingnition switch. Can't remember off the top of my head the exact colour coding but it was pretty obvious. As I mentioned in my blog, I wasnot too keen on drilling a really big hole in scuttle to pass the connector from the light box to the control box - so I opened the light box and unsoldered all the connections. This meant I only needed to drill a 5mm hole - but of course it also meant I had to resolder it all back together once the wire was threaded. The standard Aces kit comes with excessively long wires (if you plan to put the control box under the dash on the drivers side - which is a good idea so that you can reach the buttons while driving) so you can also trim them to length to make it a neater job. Have to say they are great fun and work really well once you get used to seeing them in your peripheral vision. Cheers, Alastair

Many thanks James. Since the original post, I set up the TrackAce and was measuring 0' Toe (which is what I am aiming for) then arranged my phone to record the laser position as I climbed into the car and bounced the suspension quite a bit. The results are on this video and seems to show that the toe really doesn't vary at all (you can see the laser drop as I climb in, bounce around and then rise again as I climb out - all with little variation). The steering wheel is correctly centred when I drive, so I'll check the absolute wheel position on each side using your method. Thanks!

And a second question - I use the TrackAce alignment system which of course provides a Toe measurement of the angular difference between the two front wheels (rather than an absolute measurement of each wheel like the string method). Consequently the steering central position needs to be set before any adjustment - so, is a vernier measurement of the visible track rod thread length an accurate way of making sure that both sides are set equally? (And if not, what is the best way to make sure?)