charlie_pank

Do you have the same rolling circumference as the original spec? Actually it doesn't matter anyway, give Venhill cables a call and they'll get you sorted.

Do you have the same rolling circumference as the original spec?

Well, yes there is that

If you don't want it there, why not just bypass the switch all together so it'll run without it? Personally, I find it's a great way to make sure that EVERYTHING is off before working on the car, or leaving it for a while and not worrying about parasitic drain from immobiliser ECU etc.. Edited by - charlie_pank on 2 Apr 2013 12:36:19

What do you need it for anyway?

You buy a car from the people that make them, and part of it doesn't work. Yet people are shrugging and living with it! That's serious customer 'loyalty'

If the rev counter is flickering, does it make you wonder whether there's a weak spark, or if the ECU is receiving (and acting upon) the same dud information that the instruments are getting?

Chop up the K outer to give you the boss you want, get a kit from Venhill and use their outer sleeve to make the rest of the outer the length you want, then solder the correct shaped nipple onto the end to slot into the pedal. This last bit takes some skill, more info available on request. (More difficult and important for clutch cable, as it takes a lot more load.)

I have had similarly poor experiences from CC, but have not posted about them on here because I want to support their product. How many more are hiding in the woodwork?

Wow, I wouldn't buy a car from a salesman who told me that. It certainly sounds like an earthing problem, but either the seller: 1. Noticed the problem and couldn't be bothered to fix it 2. Didn't notice the car had no oil pressure Would you want to buy a car from anyone who did either of these things? What else had they not noticed or not bothered to fix?

I'm not so sure. If there's a short that just killed his brand new battery, it might well also kill bits of the jumper's electrics. If there may be a fault with the 7's Electrics better to just try again with a battery that is successfully working in another car to prove it's the batt at fault, not the wiring...

Ditto, share the info so we all might learn from it.

original post To cut a long story short, he got a local garage to diagnose a fault with the IACV. He got a new one from somewhere, it didn't fix it. If it is truly a problem with the IACV, you can run without it. What you need to do is remove the motor and block up any holes that leaves in the manifold, warm the car up (yes you'll have to sit with your foot on partial throttle to stop it stalling), then adjust the stop screw on the throttle butterfly until the engine will idle happily. If you want to fix the original problem, given that the garage diagnosed an IACV fault and you've replaced the IACV, my next port of call would be the wiring - you could start by continuity testing the 'extension' that Stu mentions above. When you turn the ignition on (without turning the starter motor) do can you see the IACV doing anything at all? Does the throttle butterfly move or make any nose? Edited by - charlie_pank on 16 Mar 2013 14:45:05

If you want remote help, you're going to have to supply more information. Eg. How doesn't it start? Does the fuel pump prime? (Whine for a couple of secs when you turn ignition to position 1), does the engine turn over and never catch? Etc...

Good luck, I think you're going to learn a lot!

I think I have a spare one kicking about...

Here here, I'd like some soundproofing so I can hear myself think, a stereo, air con, a heated rear window and an ashtray.

From wikipedia here The viscous type is generally simpler because it relies on hydrodynamic friction from fluids with high viscosity. Silicone-based oils are often used. Here, a cylindrical chamber of fluid filled with a stack of perforated discs rotates with the normal motion of the output shafts. The inside surface of the chamber is coupled to one of the driveshafts, and the outside coupled to the differential carrier. Half of the discs are connected to the inner, the other half to the outer, alternating inner/outer in the stack. Differential motion forces the interleaved discs to move through the fluid against each other. In some viscous couplings when speed is maintained the fluid will accumulate heat due to friction. This heat will cause the fluid to expand, and expand the coupler causing the discs to be pulled together resulting in a non-viscous plate to plate friction and a dramatic drop in speed difference. This is known as the hump phenomenon and it allows the side of the coupler to gently lock. In contrast to the mechanical type, the limiting action is much softer and more proportional to the slip, and so is easier to cope with for the average driver. New Process Gear used a viscous coupling of the Ferguson style in several of their transfer cases including those used in the AMC Eagle. Viscous LSDs are less efficient than mechanical types, that is, they "lose" some power. In particular, any sustained load which overheats the silicone results in sudden permanent loss of the differential effect.[7] They do have the virtue of failing gracefully, reverting to semi-open differential behavior. Typically a visco-differential that has covered 60,000 miles (97,000 km) or more will be functioning largely as an open differential;[citation needed] this is a known weakness of the original Mazda MX-5 (a.k.a. Miata) sports car. The silicone oil is factory sealed in a separate chamber from the gear oil surrounding the rest of the differential. This is not serviceable; when the differential's behavior deteriorates, the VLSD center must be replaced.

To be more specific, ATB is a torque bias system so it doesn't need to have the ramps set as the more a wheel spins the less torque it gets. It is also progressive. The plate system won't get upset/damaged by skipping curbs on track in the same way that an atb will, but it is more binary in its operation and really does need to be correctly set up for the car in question. You should completely dismiss the viscous option.

Viscosity must be set up correctly for weight & torque of car. Very unlikely to find someone able to do that for you - which is why viscous LSDs are much cheaper than the other types! Stick with plate or ATB type.

When I fill my system, I unbolt the expansion bottle and hang it up above the engine bay so that it is the highest point. Then loosen all the hose clamps and wiggle the hose connections about until coolant starts coming out instead of air, then tighten. Work your way from the bottom to the top. Then run the engine for a bit with the expansion bottle open, refill the expansion bottle as necessary. Once the expansion bottle level stops dropping, try running the engine up to temp with the lid on but still suspended above the car. Check hoses for temperature... let it cool overnight, open expansion bottle and top up as necessary... repeat parts of the process as necessary.

I think Biggred do it for about £35 on an exchange basis...

Could be an over-specced boiler as we don't use all the radiators most of the time. I'll turn down the boiler thermostat...

What is the normal behaviour for a boiler, how often should it cut in and out?

The cycling was happening AFTER I fixed the stuck valve. Agreed, the cylinder will be at the temp of the CH system, that's fine with me. The cylinder stat is still in use, it just can't close the HW valve - it should have the same effect as having the CH and HW always come on and off together on the timer. Having the cylinder always in the circuit means that the circulating water will take longer to heat up and longer to cool down, thus reducing the on/off behaviour of the boiler.