charlie_pank

If you do that it will no longer be CAT1 (or is it 2 for immobilisers) approved :( This is fine if you chain your chassis to the floor in your garage .... Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: Map the emerald so it can drive as well as idle S5EVN

Andy you can get my map here I think there's too much fuel between 1500 and 3000 at very light throttle, there may be some more to put in at around 6000 on full throttle, and the warm up enrichments all screwed up because the temp sender is above the exhaust manifold.. oh yes and it's not a vhpd, whereas yours is! Edited by - charlie_pank on 30 Jul 2003 07:02:33

You can get "race" harness pads from halfords can't you? Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: Map the emerald so it can drive as well as idle S5EVN

I have the same problem. With enough brute force and ignorance it will go on, if you leave it in the airing cupboard or somewhere else warm beforehand it makes it easier. Then again, some people have warmed the hood and fitted it, then, as it cools it cracks the windscreen You could always try wearing a shower-hat! Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: Map the emerald so it can drive as well as idle S5EVN

Is it still a reasonable step to take if I don't want a new rad straight away? I've heard that the K-series radiator is so effective, that in the winter cars have been known to overheat because the water coming from the rad is so cold it keeps the thermostat closed! BTW how much is the rad upgrade that everyone's getting at the mo? Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: Map the emerald so it can drive as well as idle S5EVN

Anthony - are we talking 100 + VAT? Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: Map the emerald so it can drive as well as idle S5EVN

I don't know what borewash is, but as I understand it, if you have too little fuel under a lot of load (ie you'll be fine at 2-3k anyway), then you are at risk of detonation, which kills engines very quickly. I think unless you go really overboard then the only damage overfuelling does is to your wallet. Someone will be along to put me right in a minute though... Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: Map the emerald so it can drive as well as idle S5EVN

more More and MORE!! - When Peter started out he had to add masses of fuel to the map, all the flat spots I've found so far have matched up well with dips in the fuelling curve on the map, so it's been a pretty simple process so far (thanks to PC putting it in a decent state to start with). Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: Map the emerald so it can drive as well as idle S5EVN

yes mav I saw you were selling one, along with an Emerald, about 2 days after I'd bought mine and spent a LOT of time inhaling solder fumes! (curses!) Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: Map the emerald so it can drive as well as idle S5EVN

The Hayward and Scott exhaust is on my car, and they just cut off the manifold and welded their own one onto the old exhaust. Very good workmanship (thanks Arnie for the recommendation). EU3 loom CAN be used with Emerald, but you need to either: a) cut off your old loom plug and wire in the emerald one (no way back!) b) speak very nicely to Carl at Emerald or Oily to get the Rover ECU plug so that you can wire yourself an adaptor (so you are still backwards compatible) Running without an IACV, seems absolutely fine to me and the driveability is vastly improved at low revs because the ECU isn't trying to second guess you with the IACV. BTW I also have an 1.6 academy car and the standard exhaust manifold is pants. If you have worries about mapping I'm happy to donate my map - standard plenum, 4-2-1 exhaust, no IACV, standard cams if it will help. Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: Map the emerald so it can drive as well as idle S5EVN Edited by - charlie_pank on 28 Jul 2003 11:37:23

Coil and tacho are separate according to the wiring diagram, but it is around 4K that I have the problem. How did you fix it if that's how the emerald was wired with the old generation one? Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: Map the emerald so it can drive as well as idle S5EVN

Even a whole load of people saying "nope mine's always been fine" would help! Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: Map the emerald so it can drive as well as idle S5EVN

with a full cage, you tend to get in through the roof anyway, which makes it a lot easier to manoever around the steering wheel. Either way you will WANT a removable one anyway... Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: Map the emerald so it can drive as well as idle S5EVN

After Peter C very kindly came around on Tuesday night and got me set up with a very driveable map, I thought it was going to be a long time before the rev-limiter turned a blind-eye to me sloping off into the garage. However, last night was "ER" night, so I got to go for a blat :) I found a couple of little flat spots, which, when I looked at the fuel map were easy to correct, but there was something else that left me with a question: Does anyone else have a problem with the Emerald tacho output? At certain revs the rev-counter seems to go bonkers. I have yet to check all the wiring I've done etc... but I was wondering if anyone else had similar problems that weren't down to wiring problems, my gut feeling is it's something else. oooh and, does anyone know what the power is of the bulb in the tacho - do I need to put a relay in the circuit to switch it or not? (I do if it's above 3W) Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: Map the emerald so it can drive as well as idle S5EVN Edited by - charlie_pank on 24 Jul 2003 14:06:46

Anthony, if I find some cash down the back of the sofa, and you negotiate a good rate, I could well be interested.... Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: Map the emerald so it can drive as well as idle S5EVN

By the time this Map is finished we're all going to know more about the injection system of the EU3 than the guy who designed it!! Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: Map the emerald so it can drive as well as idle S5EVN

Thanks oily. From what I can see the Emerald doesn't use the MAP sensor at all. It's got a screen for MAP adjustments but they're all set to 0 in the map I'm using. (1600 SS). I'm surprised to learn that the injectors are the same size as I needed to add a lot of fuel to the map at idle to get the engine to run. The next load/engine speed point we get to has a much lower value for fuel and it immediately gets upset and runs lean enough to splutter a lot. Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: Map the emerald so it can drive as well as idle S5EVN

BTTT - surely someone knows the answer! Got a very kind person coming round to help me sort out the rest of the map this evening and this info would be invaluable... Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: Map the emerald so it can drive as well as idle S5EVN

EU2 and EU3? So far I know this: 1. distributor vs. wasted spark 2. sensible loom plug vs. 70+ pin plug from hell (well Siemens actually) Does anyone know if the injectors are the same size, I have suspicion they may be smaller on the EU3, but by how much?.... Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: Map the emerald so it can drive as well as idle S5EVN

Thanks very much for your help guys, I've found the problem... the IACV. The emerald is incapable of controlling it (which I knew when I bought it) but I had assumed that when I removed the rover mems it was fully closed (and would stay like that as long as the emerald was plugged in). This was a MISTAKE!! The IACV was open so providing a reasonable amount of air-flow at load site 0, this meant that it was running very lean as the ECU was expecting no air from the closed throttle. I figured this out after I saw that removing the coolant sensor changed the injection compensation from 70% to 170, thus allowing it to run with the increased airflow. Peter, having taken an hour or so to map the emerald at idle and seeing as it's way too lean as soon as any throttle is applied, I would really appreciate your help if you don't mind. I can provide beer/coffee/pizza/curry if they are adequate incentives... besides, how could you possibly resist the opportunity to learn all about the EU3? - (I don't actually think it's any different apart from the loom and wasted spark). Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: Map the emerald so it can drive as well as idle S5EVN

Aha! Yes Simon, I do have the plastic plenum. This is sounding more promising, I wouldn't be at all surprised to learn that the MAP sensor was broken. I'll have a look at the MAP readings when I get home and see if that makes sense. - that would also explain why the air temp sensor is so ******* expensive ~ £50 !! C Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: get a new engine 'cos I'm bu$$ered if I know why this ones not working S5EVN Edited by - charlie_pank on 21 Jul 2003 15:25:19

I'll have a look for a vacuum tube coming out of the manifold, but there's definately no vacuum tube going into the Rover EU3 Mems or the emerald, so the sensor must be somewhere else. BTW. Would I be right in thinking you're the kind of person who fixes this kind of stuff for a living (albeit on much more powerful engines)? If I can't figure it out, would you have a look at it for me (in professional capacity of course), or can you suggest anyone close to SE London who would? Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: get a new engine 'cos I'm bu$$ered if I know why this ones not working S5EVN Edited by - charlie_pank on 21 Jul 2003 13:57:56

If it's not the coolant sensor (under investigation) and it's not the air temp sensor (doesn't make enough of a difference when defaulted) what else could it be - is there a MAP sensor, if so - where? Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: Fit an emerald so I can find out why Kermit's overfuelling S5EVN

Thanks Peter, I was beginning to worry no-one would reply! The original problem was with the Rover Mems, a very rough idle and coking of lambda probe and spark plugs. I replaced lambda probe which fixed it for about 100 miles, til that one got coked up too! I have now got an emerald so that I can see the temp sensor readings. Although the air temp sensor seems to be reading too high, and the coolant temp sensor seems to be reading true (judging by the dashboard temp readout, compared with the Emerald - PC readout). The behaviour does suggest that the coolant sensor is the one telling porkies, this is backed up by your statement that coolant adjustments are much larger than air temp adjustments. I'm going to try plugging in the coolant sensor once the engine is running to see what difference it makes, and also try running it with no coolant sensor AND no air temp sensor. If this works then I will just have to accept that the coolant sensor is the one at fault, even though it doesn't look like it in the Emerald readout. Maybe it's only out by about 10 degrees - could that be enough to cause the symptoms? Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: Fit an emerald so I can find out why Kermit's overfuelling S5EVN

My friend and I have made me an adaptor so the my Emerald can use my EU3 wiring loom, so I can finally try and figure out which sensor's playing up and causing a very rough idle /occasional stall on idle when using the rover mems... These are the symptoms: Coolant sensor reading appears to be correct Air manifold temp sensor appears to be at least 15 degrees C too high (ie reading 40 yesterday when in open air outside manifold) However, I've tried to start the engine in 3 different ways: 1. With both sensors plugged in - result = coughs splutters and dies fairly quickly 2. With air temp sensor unplugged - result = same as 1 above 3. With coolant temp sensor unplugged - result = starts first time If it is a problem with the reading of the AIR temp sensor (given that it seems to be reading much too high) why is it that the engine refuses to run until I unplug the COOLANT sensor? Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: Fit an emerald so I can find out why Kermit's overfuelling S5EVN Edited by - charlie_pank on 21 Jul 2003 11:42:08