charlie_pank

--removed-- thanks a lot chris :) Edited by - charlie_pank on 29 Oct 2004 18:50:27

I'm after a soft-copy of the one about resistors and how they are used in the circuit with a potentiometer to provide a reading eg. fuel gauge. Does anyone have a soft copy? Thanks Charlie

When this happens to me I put the roof on (but don't tell anyone!). I guess you can't do this in your series... Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: There is no plan S5EVN

Last time I had this problem it was cos the previous owner of the car I had just bought didn't have the key for them. Took them down to local tyre place, where they have special sockets that are "use once and bin" jobbies. I think you can buy them in Halfords now, they have a kind of thread on them that cut into the nuts when you turn them to undo. You could either have a go yourself with some of these sockets, or take it down to a tyre place (I personally wouldn't choose kwikfit though).

I always add my 2p's worth when this question comes up: When my 1.6 EU3 K did this on the way to Le Mans '03, in conjunction with the usual starter motor problems, the ECU was never the same again - rough running, even stalling when idling occasionally, down on power at the top end. Tried all sorts of sensor changes to fix (even found that it actually ran better when ANY sensor was removed - ie it was in 'get you home mode'). Finally remedied when I got an Emerald, when looking at the sensor outputs it is clear that there are no problems with any of them, my conclusion was that the ECU itself had been damaged when the fuse blew in France...

Neil, Paul (Thinfourth) comes South to Knockhill when we meet up there. I don't think Middlesbrough is Norf enuff!

Bricol - you may be right, and I'll try it in another 80,000 miles when they start to squeak again, but they do look pretty corroded and perished. Also, having done it once now, I know I can do it again and I know what the bits look like and exactly where they are, which will help me to aim the fairy liquid in future!

I am so pleased with myself I wanted to share it with fellow car-geeks. After having it hanging over me for months I finally got around to figuring out what the horrible lurching creak was from the rear of Helen's Pug 306. I replaced the rear rear axle mounting bushes (can be done with axle in-situ) and took it for a test, only to discover it had made little or no difference. So on the way home from the test, I went past the motor factors where they were holding the front rear axle bushes for me in case I needed them. Took them home and spent the next 10 hrs removing the whole rear subframe in order to put the new bushes on. I was particularly amused by the "point of no return" where the last bolt comes out and the axle drops with a "clunk" onto the waiting trolley jack and you think - "well, I'm going to HAVE to learn how to put it back now!" When I finally got it all back together, brake unions re-attached and system bled etc... I took it for another (victorious) test drive to find the horrible creaking gone, and the handling a lot more sure-footed in the corners. No point really except to say that I am still pleased with myself for having managed this alone, when I don't have any prior experience of any sort of suspension adjustment or dismantling. Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: There is no plan S5EVN

nverona do I have the wrong end of the stick, or are you running 30 amps through your red button?

here

I agree it sounds like fuel starvation. Just thought it might be worth mentioning, that my open diff has a tendency to make the outside wheel spin up when exiting corners. Depending on your level of experience it may be possible that the symptoms you are describing are down to this rather than fuelling issues.

Ta Oily, I've often wondered how the distributor systems work for advance and retard. Is the spark "stored" somewhere for a configurable amount of time?

Wasted spark supposedly gives a better spark as there are two coils, with twice as long to recover between each sparking. I don't know a huge amount about the specifics of the various distributors that EU2 Ks use, but on my old cars, it's always struck me that there's a couple of degrees leeway in advance/retard caused by at what precise position you put the cap and arm on at. Also, I've often wondered how accurate the vacuum controlled advance really is (does the EU2 have a vacuum controlled advance?). EU2 plugs straight into Emerald, EU3 requires building of adaptor or chopping the plug off the loom and wiring another one. ISTR there is also a difference re: IACV, does the EU2 have one?

Does the GSX-R not have an immobiliser as standard?

Tacho is fed off supply for coils, so if you're only firing on 2 cylinders, it may be confused. I wouldn't expect the ECU/MFU to mind getting a bit wet given that the bonnet is not waterproof anyway. Just let it all dry out naturally and then give it another try in a couple of days... Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: There is no plan S5EVN

Seriously though, if you can heel and toe, then you really don't need one. Regardless of how steep the hill is. All academy cars have passed SVA already, so it's not something you need to worry about if you're considering buying one. Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: There is no plan S5EVN

I had exactly the same symptoms, fixed by the ole garnet paper trick. BTW the best place I found to buy this was toy modelling shops.

Ah ok, that makes more sense. I went to Hayward & Scott in Basildon in Essex. They were recommended to me by (Less Fat?) Arnie. You can see them here. It wasn't cheap, but the manifold is a real work of art and really widened the torque curve, even without changing anything else. Do you have the Rover ECU or something else? Assuming that you adjusted the map as part of the DVA treatment, you'll probably want to do so again after fitting the new manifold...

Riggsbie, a "4 to 2 to 1" is not standard, I'd stick with it if I were you, it's what I upgraded to from the nasty "4-1" with the collector inside the engine bay. (I have a 1.6K too). Edited by - charlie_pank on 30 Sep 2004 10:30:50

Nog, sorry I haven't read EVERYTHING in this thread, so if you've already been over this, just ignore me, but I was wondering... If you use a dry sump, is there any reason why the engine can't be canted over as far as you like (ie up to about 60 Degrees) without worrying about the oil? Why did you go for the 1000 instead of the 1300?

Try sliding the seat back on the runners.

Surely it's very easy with an Emerald to take the air temp sensor out and test it next to a thermometer?

Did you put bike oil or car oil in it? Bike engines are very sensitive to having the right type of oil as the engine, gearbox and clutch are all bathed in it.

2002 620 Monster ie. Thanks for the info. I think it might be the air temp sensor playing up. As it seems to have a tickover that varies between 700 and 2000 rpm depending on the ambient temperature and the temp in the area immediately surrounding the engine (ie I think that the air temp sensor is too close to the fins of the air-cooled engine). If there was a workshop manual available it would be an easy job to take it off, clean it up, test it and refit or relocate it.

I had one of those Motorolla ones (it's an EU3) and the plug is not directly compatible with the Emerald. In order to link an Emerald up to it you have to either wire in a new plug to the loom or get hold of a plug and make an adaptor (which I did). IMHO - having had some ECU problems myself, I think it will be extremely difficult to diagnose this fault without attaching a PC and looking at all the readings the ECU is seeing, it was (partly) for this reason that I chose to bin the old ECU and get an Emerald. If you don't want the expense of doing this (and I don't blame you) then you are really at the mercy of Caterham/Rover to have a look at it for you and run the ECU diagnostics... (good luck, I got really fed up with the Rover garage at the end of my road making a big song and dance about it not being a Rover, so them not being able to do anything with it.)