charlie_pank

I've got Mintex pads on the front and have no problem locking up whatsoever, if you're finding it hard work then something's definitely not right. Perhaps try an ezibleed and take the rear calipers off so that you can hold them with the nipple uppermost There's been a lot of talk on here over the years about how caterham brakes are wooden and don't stop effectively etc... but I have never had a problem myself and never cease to be amazed at how quickly you can shave off speed. If you do use the Mintex pads, bear in mind that they are a little bit binary until they've warmed up a bit. Bikers sometimes use syringes to fill their brake lines when they are having trouble with air bubbles, perhaps it might be worth a try in your case? Did anyone else have a go in your car, or did you have a go in anyone else's - this would help to pin down whether or not it's normal.

Actually I meant you should have a look at the new Guzzis because they will be fuel injected and you will be able to figure out more about what you need to do, however, I think from a cost/benefit point of view, AMMO is probably right. Then again, I don't think you would be looking to convert a Guzzi to fuel injection if you were concerned about cost or benefit. As far as I can see the only benefit would be a bit of fuel economy, why do you want to bin the carbs? Edited by - charlie_pank on 6 May 2005 18:12:43

I had this problem after getting very hot in France a few years ago. It also coincided with the dreaded starter motor problem. You didn't blow the ECU fuse recently did you? If you have the same problem that I did, I suggest that you might find the car runs better if you disconnect ANY of the sensors - eg Lambda probe, Air temp sensor, coolant temp sensor etc... as it will then run in "get you home" mode. If you do have the same symptoms as me, it may well be Emerald time, it was for me ☹️ I'm glad I've done it now though

It was mounted on the horizontal part of the scuttle on the engine-bay side, where the heater would be. I don't think it would have been any better off if it had been vertically mounted. That's why I'm going to put it inside.

If you've got a problem with the IACV, try taking the valve apart and cleaning it. If you've got a problem with the ECU, you'll probably end up doing what I did and getting an emerald, I lived 300 yds from a Rover dealer, and they wouldn't help me with the ECU, on or off the car.

I reckon you ought to start by looking at the new Guzzis which are presumably injected. If it were me, I'd be making a list of the things I need - crank sensor, cam sensor, coolant temp sensor etc... then try and find an ECU - you could probably run off an emerald for example... most of the sensors are probably there on the carbed version anyway...

Just in case you were wondering, I can confirm that the unit is not watertight. I discovered this yesterday, after Kermit had been standing outside for 3 days in the Lake District. He started fine, but once we started moving, he was only firing on 2 cylinders, I put this down to water around the plugs, so persevered in the hope that warming the engine up would evaporate the water. However, when we stopped because we were having no joy, I found that the CAT was red hot (presumably down to the fuel from 2 of the cylinders burning there). Kermit refused to start again and, when I picked up the ECU and shook it, lots of water came out! After a very slow ride back from Cockermouth to Edinburgh on the back of a truck, I plugged in my laptop to find that: a) the emerald still had the correct map b) according to the emerald the air temp was 126 Deg C c) unplugging the air temp sensor made no difference to the reading d) on turning over on the starter motor the emerald read 0 rpm "Bugger" thought I and nipped down to halfords for the correct sized star key to open the silver box. When I opened it up, it wasn't dripping wet, although I think it probably was earlier, everything was fairly damp, so one session with the hairdryer later, I plugged the ECU back into the car and she fired up fine, reads 200-400 rpm when cranking on the starter and the air temp is back down to 11 degrees. I am planning to relocate the emerald to the back of the scuttle - "inside" as opposed to in the engine bay, so as to avoid this incident in future, I did think about sealing the emerald with silicone, but I think this would have led to condensation problems. I hope my recounting of this tale helps others to avoid the same situation... Charlie'n'Kermit The plan is: There is no plan S5EVN

Won't that get in the way of your knees when you're changing gear? Surely it should be LEFT underdash handbrake? Edited by - charlie_pank on 27 Apr 2005 18:10:35 Edited by - charlie_pank on 27 Apr 2005 18:11:02

I don't understand how putting it in first and rocking it helps with my starter 'click' the solenoid is not throwing, so it's not in contact with the flywheel thus it won't make any difference to move the crankshaft by rocking in gear... please explain!

😬

I've had the starter motor problems for a while, and have cleaned up the solenoid a couple of times, and I've done the relay mod, both which keep the wolf from the door for a while, but it always returns. Clearly I need to make a heat-shield and get a new s/motor. But until then, I've found that if i get the dreaded 'click' I can often overcome it by repeatedly pressing the red button very rapidly - it seems to 'dislodge' the solenoid piston in its shaft, and I get to drive away. I fix the underlying problem and get a new s/motor but I need to get a job first. Is there anything really bad about my rapid button pressing solution in the meantime?

Bill it's a Wintec2 - he showed me the software on his work PC - it made me so happy to have an Emerald. To the untrained eye, the Wintec looked feindishly complicated. It seems to be driven off a target AFR rather than one being able to directly determine fuelling at each load/speed site. Therefore I struggle to see how it can operate effectively without a wideband 02 sensor (perhaps that's what they mean in the documentation by an "HEGO"?).

It's a start, as I wasn't sure what the effect of the supercharger would be on the MAP, and wondered whether there are some weird interactions going on in the inlet manifold meaning that maximum MAP is not actually at WOT...

My friend has a supercharged system in his car and is trying to sort out the fuelling. The system he has works off MAP rather than throttle pos, as I've been sorting out the fuelling on Kermit recently (in case you hadn't noticed), he asked me about his set up. Thing is I don't know how "load" is related to MAP in a forced induction system - can anyone shed light on this?

Thanks martin, the seller posted them to me and paid the postage! I really appreciate the offer though :)

Lol at this - 😬 😬 😬

I think the ign map I've got is pretty good (I've been using it for 2 years), as I have been sorting out the fuelling and while it is fresh in my mind I thought I'd see if the ign timing map could be improved on too. It's not the end of the world if I don't get it done tomorrow or anything and the car's already a million times more driveable thanks to the WB lambda logging and Chris Good's excellent software. When I do get around to it it will be as you have suggested Oily, on a rolling road, increasing the advance at each point until the power drops, then backing off. Sounds pretty simple really, once you've got it on the RR. C

Strangely, I will do that tonight, I've been chatting with a few on there about all this mapping stuff. I can't do it while I'm at work though because work's blocked access to webmail providers :( - glad I'm leaving on Friday then !

Thanks Mike you're not the first person to have said this, so I'm beginnning to believe it (unfortunately)! BTW - just got off the phone with the "Car Tuning Clinic" in Edinburgh. I was hoping that they'd let me use their RR to hold throttle & engine speed constant and stick some of the points in. They assured me that it couldn't be done because mapping one point would affect the other points (on the curve) - I tried to explain that I had a 3D map and one point had no bearing on the next, but he was having none of it. Told me he'd been mapping engines for 30 years and that it couldn't be done! Grrrrrrrrr - told me it would be £500 to map it!

By all means use some washers, but don't use steel ones!

I had similar problems when I moved to an Emerald (had to make an adaptor to go from EU2 (emerald) to EU3(legacy loom). After speaking to Carl, I switched off the rev-counter 'telltale' in the Emerald and it went away.

Cheers oily, I've just been reading it actually :) Reading this I understand the principles of partial filling etc... and why advance is necessary. I also read that the way that the ignition is mapped on a RR is to increase the advance at each site as much as possible without pinking (detonation/pre-ignition). Thing is, I'm not sure I can recognise pinking at WOT, 6000 rpm on the road! Not convinced I'd recognise it when stationary actually, I know it's a pinging sound, but apart from that what makes it stand apart from all the other rattles and bumps a 7 makes? Is it a regular ping (ie the cylinder pings on every compression cycle)?

Also - how on earth do you map ignition? What are you looking for to tell you whether to advance or retard?

Right, getting on well with injection mapping. And I've got the idle sorted out in terms of advance and throttle stop. I'm a bit concerned that my advance is quite high in some areas of the map - eg. 6000 rpm TP4 = 40 Degrees 4500 rpm TP6 = 27 Degrees Does this look reasonable? Is there a base map I can use for everything except idle (which is sorted)? - It's a 1.6k with standard cams and the standard (big) ally plenum. Edited by - charlie_pank on 13 Apr 2005 09:36:16

Now there's some useful info - cheers oily - I'll go back and adjust the airflow so I can run a hot idle at 0adv and work from there. That's fantastic - I just needed 1 reference point - now I've got it *wink* [1.6k with std ally plenum and 4-2-1 exhaust] Edited by - charlie_pank on 12 Apr 2005 11:05:12