charlie_pank
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Everything posted by charlie_pank
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Cheers guys, I'll try investigating the plug holes :)
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Angus, I had wondered about that, but I would have expected the heat from the engine to prevent that. When I had the original (showstopper, trailered home) problem, I drove it for 3 miles on 2 cylinders because I thought it was this and the heat would deal with it... it didn't. After (carefully) dismantling the ECU and haidryering it, all was well. When I had the problem last weekend, I had already covered about 20 miles (admittedly mostly through standing water) so I have assumed that it can't be water in the spark plug holes... am happy to be corrected though. What do you think?
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Got a good drenching last weekend and had 2 misfire moments where it felt (and sounded) like the engine (1600k) was running on 2 cylinders. Similar to how it was running all the time when it got a good 2 day drenching in the lake district and we had to be trailered home. Fortunately this time it only happened for a fraction of a second (twice within a 2 hr period). Has anyone else had similar problems? I'm wondering whether anything else other than the Emerald might be to blame, as I have repositioned to a more water-resistant location since the first incident. I'm also considering thoroughly drying out the Emerald and then sealing with silicone - will this cause condensation issues inside it? Thanks C
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depends on tyre AO2Rs have a non-directional tread pattern, but have directional strength ribbing on the inside (have a look next time you see them off a wheel). Therefore you want them to be in the direction of rotation on the driving wheels (ie rears) and reversed on the front (braking) wheels.
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Have found the problem to exist: 1. Cyclops with external GPS antenna stuck to top of roll cage (normally perfect) 2. Cyclops In Tin-top stuck on dashboard under non-heated windscreen (normally virtually perfect) drove from Edinburgh to Surrey on Jul 22nd and return journey on 26th and had no reception at least 50% of the time. 3. Handheld Garmin Etrex wandering around Holyrood park in Edinburgh on the Sunday just gone.
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1. As you removed the injector cable on #2 to find no difference - might you have a dodgy injector or a dodgy cable? 2. Have you tried actually testing the spark on #2 outside the cylinder - does it look any different to one of the good ones?
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My Cyclops has been having similar problems. I also noticed it using my Garmin when I went for a run (wanted to see how far the circuit was). It was fine around Arthur's seat, but no reception anywhere near Holyrood house or the Scottish Parliament building - wonder if it's a security thing.
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A friend of mine is trying to do his first startup of a BEC. The engine has been sitting for 2 years. He's checked that the fuel rail is pressurised, and that he's got a spark. The only thing which seems to be missing is fuel in the cylinder. The signal to the injectors fluctuates as it should when the engine is turned over. We have drawn the conclusion that the injectors are stuck because they haven't been used for so long. Does anyone have any suggestions for freeing them up?
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Has anyone else found it to be rubbish recently?
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My guess that this is just because they couldn't be arsed to figure out what each switch was supposed to do.
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Sorry to hear that Ben 🙆🏻
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No worries, I've read the directions about jacking up and supporting on the chassis rather than the de-dion :) BTW gearbox oil smells REALLY bad Edited by - charlie_pank on 24 Jun 2005 09:58:20
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Even with the hole cut in the pax footwell, it was still a scrabbling around under the car 2 man (well 1 man and his wife) job. In case anyone is interested, I can now confirm that it is a square 11mm key, found in Halfrauds under the title of drain plug spanner. Frustratingly, after doing all of this, I jacked the back up to do the same with the diff, to find that the plug there is a large hex one (I'm guessing 10mm, from all the other postings) and there's only about 1" of clearance between the diff and the de-dion tube. At this point I gave up and started packing for my holiday, I'll do it when I come back. Any tips about how to get at the diff plug? Is there ANY other way apart from cutting down a 10mm allen key?
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Cheers Steve - glad to see we're talking the same language. --ooh and they're all sparkly and gold coloured too!
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It's this here isn't it? Edited by - charlie_pank on 23 Jun 2005 09:45:27
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Cheers stuart - nice to know I'm not going crazy! 1/2" seems too big and 1/4" seems too small, guess I'll be making that trip to halfrauds!
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I guess part of the trouble is that I can't see the damn thing except from at an angle. The mouth of the plug is definitely square, but i can't see into it. Does everyone else's look hex-shaped at the mouth or square at the mouth?
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yeah, ok filler plug, but you knew what I meant. See how I've edited my original post so that no-one will know what you're on about now! Anyway... - any answers? Edited by - charlie_pank on 22 Jun 2005 23:38:59
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OK so I've cut the hole in the passenger footwell, and I can stick anything in the plug that you like, but from what I can see, it's some sort of square allen key plug. I see that in the archives people talk about using a 10mm allen key - does this mean that I've got a different type of plug, or does the 10mm hexagonal allen key fit in the square plug? If not where on earth can I get the right tool for this plug (and what size is it?) Edited by - charlie_pank on 22 Jun 2005 23:38:01
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only time I've ever had something like that was when I was running on 2 cylinders and the fuel from the non-sparking cylinders was burning in the cat. It turned out to be due to a soggy emerald, which, due to its soggy status, thought that the ambient air-temperature was 127 deg C. Not sure this is any help at all, but I often find that people imparting information that they thing is relevant but possibly not helpful can end up being useful to the recipient in ways the imparter hadn't thought of IYSWIM (I'll shut up now...)
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Cover anything even vaguely close to the appertures in masking tape before you start. You will save yourself some heartache.
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Loads of stuff on this in the archives. The upshot of the arguments is that some people say EG is ok and some would only use PPG. I use PPG because it reduces localised boiling - which is important in an ally head. You'll have to search the archives and make up your own mind, cos there's plenty who will argue either way til you're blue in the face.
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ummm ... turn it off? ;)
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Given the price of hardware these days, there really is no excuse for the delay while the ECU thinks up some numbers, I reckon it's got to be a deliberate 'detune'.
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Perhaps we should club [sic] together, and buy Oily membership so he can continue to contribute?!
