charlie_pank

I think you can get them made-to-measure. So any length you want is possible. I'd start by giving Caterham a call and asking them the same questions. If they can't supply you with the propshaft you need, they'll tell you who can...

Pardon? Above 30mph, I'd be lucky to hear Krakatoa. Perhaps you should just shift down a gear to drown it out?

I guess you have no iacv, no idea about your configuration, but on mine the TBs are joined to head by rubber sleeves. If jubilee clip worked loose, could cause air leak. Traditional method for finding is with a listening pipe.

Clear silicone, it looks less 'bathroom' than the white stuff.

Interesting - reducing the airflow through the throttle increases power output. It must be one or more of the following: 1. you have an air leak in the inlet manifold between the engine and the throttle body / bodies 2. your IACV is stuck/behaving oddly 3. your ECU map is very lumpy

That would be about a week too early...

When the rear is jacked up, if I grab the offside rear wheel and shake it, there a just-perceptible movement, I've tried tightening up the half-shaft nut so I guess I need a new wheel bearing. Is it just a case of: 1 Loosen half-shaft nut 2 Loosen wheel nuts 3 Put on axle stands 4 Remove wheel 5 Remove caliper 6 Remove de-dion ear 7 Unbolt bearing from ear 8 Bolt in new bearing 9 Re-assemble Any magic involved? The bearing kits advertised on the Caterham site don't look like they just bolt in, do I need to take it to someone with a press? (2001 De-Dion chassis) Edited by - charlie_pank on 8 Apr 2012 21:22:44

when you say it ' snorts and shunts the car forwards' I assume you mean that you are pushed forwards against the harnesses. This is simply the engine braking, yes you're right you do need to be careful with that on track, fluffing a gearchange and locking the rear wheels is how I always spin off into the scenery!

no Cadwell for me I'm afraid, too much work to do preparing for the BIG DAY!

Yeah the spring seems ok, and my in-garage eyeball tests indicate that the throttle returns to the stop fast enough. I wonder whether it's simply that when trundling along at around-town speeds, the engine is limited by the load on it rather than the fuel or air it is receiving, so as soon as the clutch frees it the engine spins up? My other thought is that the airbox pressure is different to the open-air pressure. Because I'm using a sausage filter, I assumed there would be no real difference so the MAP sensor (separate from the vacuum sensor) is just sitting in the engine bay, but maybe I DO need to put it inside the airbox again... I've always had an under-dash handbrake so I'm used to heel and toeing for hill-starts!

Spent a bit more time getting acquainted with the engine today. pulls like a train and i haven't found the rev limited yet! It may be the way I'm driving it, all still very new to me, but at the moment on (clutched) upshifts, I'm finding the revs rise when I drop the clutch. If my foot is right off the throttle and I'm slowing towards a junction and downshifting, I don't have the same problem at all. This makes me think that I might not be quite co-ordinating the lift off with the clutch-dip yet. Apart from a sticky throttle cable, are there any other issues that might result in this kind of behaviour? Thanks Charlie

Guess not then hun?

I suspect that the battery inside my tacho/speedo is dead. Normally you hold down the rotary control for a second to put it into setup mode, all it does now is reboot every time. I know you're not supposed to but has anyone taken a Stack dash apart and replaced the internal battery? I took the back and the first bit of circuitboard off, but didn't see anything that looked like a battery in there. It looked like there was more stuff under another cover, but I couldn't figure out how to get at it...

That just sounds like limp-home mode, could be anything that puts it in limp-home mode!

Where did it go?

Test the resistance between the temp sender and earth at different temperatures. If it is within spec (check on google somewhere I guess) then it's not the sender. Then continuity test the wire between the sender and the gauge with a multimeter If all is fine, then your gauge is dying - perhaps borrow a known good one from someone. Where are you based?

Would help to know what VW 1.0 is... What happens if you warm it up to temperature before releasing the throttle? Suspect wiring/sensor problem - TPS or temp sensor most likely. Perhaps also IACV?

head torch big torque wrench small torque wrench good metric sockets and driver with extensions and universal joint ratchet ring-spanners and plain ring-spanners pair of ramps pair of axle-stands deffo waterproof before construction if doing a lot of riveting (eg floor) get a rivet adaptor for your drill when fitting diff, use a long screwdriver or thin bar to hold it in position in the mounts rather than trying to get the bolts straight in take your time, if it's not working, go away and think about it/talk it over or do another task use the right tool for the right job get a whiteboard and use it to remind yourself where you left off and things you might forget to do. good luck and enjoy!

Does anyone have any suggestions for attaching a nipple to a bespoke cable? I soldered it as per the instructions and it lasted about 10 miles before giving up and leaving me stranded with no clutch. I'm open to suggestions either about where I can get one made up/soldered for me or techniques for doing it myself. Could I do it with a massive crimping tool?

Don't replace the sensor if you have tested it and it's working ok. I don't understand your two posts. In one you say the battery is brand new and turning the engine over fine, in another you say that it may have lost voltage over the winter and you're going to try it on a trickle charger. Is it new and fully charged, or has it sat doing nothing all winter? If you run it off jump leads from another car, does it start first time? If yes, then your battery is weak - do you know how to check that the alternator is charging it properly? If it doesn't behave any differently on the jump-leads, it's either an inlet air-leak causing a weak mixture, a dodgy sensor or connection meaning fueling is out, or fuel pressure is down. - Try sraying easistart in the TBs, this will confirm it's lack of fuel that's doing it. Next thing is to work through the sensors and find out what their expected resistance/behaviour is and test them accordingly. I'd start with the throttle position sensor...

Replacing them is only a matter of draining the coolant, undoing some jubilee clips and refilling. Why bother with a temporary fix - those Ks don't like to run without full coolant y'know!

paper washer is the closest thing to the chassis

Well, in a manner of speaking. It's quite ugly - as I've got a temporary bonnet and airbox, but everything works and is ready for MOT. Took it out for a test drive (on a private road, of course) and managed to accelerate, brake, use the indicators, drive in a straight line and change up and down a couple of gears. Didn't get to open it up properly or anything but it is probably one of the most adrenaline-filled drives I've ever had!

It's either that or take it to a RR that can handle your ECU to find out what's going on in there. Might be worth seeing if a Rover dealer can plug into the loom and check for fault codes for you.

It's either that or take it to a RR that can handle your ECU to find out what's going on in there. Might be worth seeing if a Rover dealer can plug into the loom and check for fault codes for you.