charlie_pank

You wouldn't have seen me, I was in the shopping-barge Nice to almost meet you at last :)

You have a physical problem causing the low compression. This could be anything: loose spark-plug, head-gasket (well it is a K-series!), rings, piston, warped head or even cracked liner. Did you confirm that the other 3 cylinders are running at the right AFR? If they are then I guess you've got a duff/different injector on #4 Edited by - charlie_pank on 24 Apr 2012 15:35:34

I THINK there are some criteria you can set to tell the ECU that you're trying to start the engine (RPM below x, temp below y, etc... ) then you can tell it you need more fuel at that point. I suggest you try the easistart test, as that will confirm that you need more fuel when cranking...

If you disconnected the rev-counter, reconnected it and now it doesn't work, then I'm almost certain that you haven't reconnected it correctly. How many connections are there, what is each one for?

my guess is you need more fuel when it's cold and speed < 600 rpm as it only fires after it has been cranking for a while and enough fuel has accumulated around the intake. have you tried cranking while spraying easistart on the throttle body?

Remove that half a degree of toe-in

Hi Myles, AFR should be 14.7:1 at idle. I wonder if you've got that issue where the HT leads interfere with one of the sensor signals when you start to rev it up. Are you EU2 or EU3? If you're fouling the plugs then you must be running too rich - perhaps the coolant sensor thinks it's colder than it really is? Or perhaps the TPS has been nudged so it thinks the throttle is open wider than it really is? Didn't you make some MAP mod for touring in the alps?

Anyone got anything they want moved?

+I just had a quick look in my parts bin. here is the one I found. You can make me an offer if it is of use. I note that it's a 3 pin plug and a quick go with the multimeter tells me it requires + and - feeds and then the 3rd pin will give a voltage reading back to the ecu.

Surely if you unplug the tps and nothing changes, then your tps is failing? Try measuring the tps resistance at different positions and compare with manufacturers spec (ask Caterham cars what it should be)

I've always wondered about those things, does it really add 10bhp? Surely it causes a problem at partial throttle openings because the roller/slider thing is opening from one side rather than both?

When 'a friend' of mine forgot to re-attach the alternator leads and conked out, simply waiting for half an hour did allow the battery enough time to recover and then start the engine without assistance.

Anyone know the expected resistances for those two sensors at various temps?

I take it the engine never cuts out at anything above an idle? You can log the emerald output to a laptop if I remember correctly. Perhaps then playing back the data would tell you what events lead up to a stall? Once it has stalled the emerald thinks it's not turning over fast enough - so this MUST be one of a few things: 1) Engine isn't turning over fast enough - dead battery, alternator (might charge ok at speed but not idle) dodgy connection(s), starter motor 2) Emerald getting wrong message from crank/cam sensor on engine speed - problem with sensor(s), problem with sensor wiring/contacts/interference from HT leads, increased resistance with temperature? 3) Emerald is misinterpreting data - send back to Emerald I guess you could pull out the cam-sensor and crank sensor and test them - perhaps swap with known good ones? I'd lend you mine if I still had the K. Or could you turn the engine over by hand and check that the sensor is registering the 'pings' at the right points? Here suggests they're both Hall-effect sensors, so you should be able to test them with something ferrous. I don't know what the tolerances are on those particular sensors are, but you might find that during the rebuild one of them was mounted ever so slightly too far away from its target... Edited by - charlie_pank on 16 Apr 2012 13:21:29

Awesome, the response is that you need to give it more beans :) :) :)

Leaking fuel tank won't blacken the plugs! Are there any club members near you who have read an MBE before? I seem to recall that someone on here has done it, perhaps it was 'EFA', he might have been posting as 'Fat Arnie' back then...

Definitely an earth problem.

I used to take the bolt off the top and fill the apollo separately with a funnel.

no idea, but I'm sure an r300 owner can tell you

apollo has a separate drain plug. Your missing oil is in there

On our expedition vehicle every job required a breaker bar, blowtorch and 1lb lump hammer, this is sounding similar. Lots of heat will wreck the brake seals and fluid, but it'll get the drum off!

Yes you're running rich. In my experience, anything other than a proper mapping session or a wired in wideband lambda probe and a self-mapping ecu is just fumbling around in the dark. Do you have the ability to plug your pc into the ecu? If you're lucky it might be a duff sensor (eg coolant temp) and you'll see it instantly when reading what the ecu is seeing.

sounds like battery or alternator to me. Perhaps watching the voltage across the battery terminals while it warms up to the point the fan kicks in would tell you what you need to know. Does the battery have enough oomph to turn the fan after the engine has died? Is the fan triggered by the emerald or by the rad thermo-switch?

I really wouldn't worry about it until it's a rolling chassis and you can use the brakes. whatever you can tighten it to at the moment will be fine

There are lots of places I've seen that will fix old radiators for you, perhaps you could try one of them?