charlie_pank

It turns out there's a hall-effect sensor in the bike gearbox already. So, I'm wondering if I can use that. I have identified which wire that comes out of it is the reading, so presumably I can just stick that in to right wire of the stack. I still have some questions though: 1. Will it matter that I haven't attached the + and - wires of the stack to the sensor as the sensor already has a + and - feed? 2. Will the fact that the stack is reading from the sensor stop the ECU from reading from it at the same time?

I've got an oil/water heat exchanger and everything's up to running temp within a couple of mins.

This is Angus' info on it. He doesn't cover Ford viscous ones though

that wasn't what i was thinking. just thought that if you lost some coolant then it looked fine, it was probably boiling inside the head creating steam that pushed the water into the expansion tank, when it cools down again the steam condenses and the bubble contacts and the tank is empty again.

Did the coolant 'disappear' from the header tank once it had cooled down 🤔

Oh well, good luck then! I'm a bit suspicious about the 'LSD' that I've got lying about at the back of the garage. I suspect it might be a Ford Viscous one. How do I tell?

Hmm, sounds like you have an electrical gremlin somewhere. I normally operate under the assumption that if it's affecting more than one thing, that shouldn't be related then it's an earthing problem. What do you mean by the 'cut off switch'? Do you mean the one that used to be on the right handlebar of the bike? This isn't a 'cut-off' as such, it's an engine-stop switch - perhaps that's the source of the confusion. When you say 'helicopter switch' I'm assuming you mean the one that is supposed to isolate everything from the battery. Normally both the + and the - terminals of the battery should run through this - your description sounds like it only isolates the starter motor - or perhaps you mean that it is earthed on the engine at the starter motor? Either way, your wiring sounds rather bespoke (it is a BEC after all!), without quite a lot more info it's going to be difficult to help!

Hi Gary, I wanted to do this too. The problem is that the motion of the inner CV joint and the outer tripod are different when your bespoke half-shafts aren't dead straight, so they shake themselves apart. Having taken both apart I can see how this would be the case. The best you can do is scavenge the lsd unit from inside the diff and use it to rebuild a unit based on the push-in half-shafts.

Ok, so the next thing to check is the relay and the wiring to it. You need to figure out which of the leads to it is the +feed from the ECU (via the 'engine harness' you mention. Disconnect that lead from the relay, then use a spare bit of wire to connect it to the + of the battery while the ignition is on. The fuel pump should prime, if not, the relay or its wiring is bust.

oh dear, if he breaks down in sighthill, the car will be a bare chassis by the time I get across town to him!!

Myles, if the car won't start from the battery, but then is fine when you jump it, either the battery is not holding charge (but it's brand-new you say) or the alternator is not charging it. Let me know if you want a tow, or a jump-start this evening.

Paul D, if, by moving the disc you're able to induce movement in the CV joint, the bearing is shot. The DeDion ear holds the bearing carrier and it should allow no lateral movement of the shaft. Jason, Was it a bad batch of bearings or bearing housings? Edited by - charlie_pank on 15 May 2012 06:04:21

I think you need to be a bit more methodical with this, for example, we know that the FIA switch works ok because when big red key is removed, s/motor does not turn, but with big red key in, it does. We can also stop worrying about the battery because jump-starting doesn't work either. I'm not sure where you're getting 4 wires on the fuel pump. The test I was suggesting was to take a the +wire out of the inertia switch and brush it on the +terminal of the battery. If this gets the fuel-pump priming then the problem is upstream of the inertia switch, If it doesn't then your problem is downstream of the inertia switch... PS just been to garage and done a little test for you, the inertia switch has 12v across it when the ECU is priming the fuel line. Edited by - charlie_pank on 14 May 2012 21:10:58

Yep OEM fuel injected yamaha R1

as an aside to this, my engine has 2 barometric pressure sensors, one attached to the vacuum system between the throttle plenums and the inlet valves, and one that just sits in the engine bay. It also has a TPS. Can anyone explain how this combination of info is used to determine fueling and spark?

If you've got other random symptoms (ie flickering rev counter) then you've either got a bad earth connection, or something is earthing where it shouldn't.

It's not very clear from your post, but I think you're saying you want to know if the ECU is password protected. Are you expecting the rolling road people to change your fueling/spark maps? What engine do you have - (does it even have an ECU, and if so what is it?)

use a bit of silicone sealant

Ok, so the starter turns the engine over. Thus it's unlikely to be a problem with the FIA key. Check the operation of your fuel pump by brushing the positive feed to the pump on the + terminal of the battery. If you hear it prime, you have an immobiliser problem, if you don't your problem is somewhere in the wiring to the fuel pump, the fuel pump itself or the fuel line/fuel rail (blockage?) If you have an immobiliser problem, you've probably got no spark either - the appropriate manual will tell you how to check this. Does the immobiliser unit have any lights on it? Is there a sequence for resetting it? Does the air intake smell of petrol (is it flooded?) Is there a method for clearing a flooded sigma (eg. Crank for 1 min with throttle floored)?

Strange that you also don't hear the fuel pump priming. Do you have ANY power to the car at all? Can you turn the headlights on? If not then you have some basic electrical problem: 1. Dead battery 2. Wiring to/from FIA switch 3. FIA switch itself 4. Blown fuse Given that the fuel pump's not priming, my guess is it'll be one of these If you DO have power to the lights then mobilise the car, turn the ignition on, make sure it's in neutral and then short the terminals on the solenoid to see if it the starter will turn. Anyone know what the immobiliser does in this installation? IIRC the Rover one would allow the starter-motor to turn but wouldn't give you spark or fuel so you could turn the starter til the battery was flat and it wouldn't ever fire up. I have to assume that yours is the same... (there's no point in immobilising the starter motor as you can always just short the terminals).

Instructions are in the FAQ section of this website.

If you had a longer throttle cable/shorter sheath, you could move the throttle stop back accordingly and give yourself the extra room. Is there any adjustment to be had on the cable? Have you had other 7s in the past that 'fitted' better? Have you sat in other people's 7s to see how they fit you? - I've got tiny feet and I always have to wear very narrow shoes to be able to drive mine properly. When you say 'the brake and the throttle are far too close' do you mean they're both too close to you, or close to each other? If they're too close to each other, the answer might well be to move the brake forwards so that it is closer to you - it makes it much easier to only hit the one you want and both only when that's what you want to do!

The Jeep Cherokee we were travelling with got a puncture outside Aralsk, we filled it with tyre-weld and it made it 1000 miles across the Kazakh desert to Almaty in 50 degrees C. There is surely not a better road test on earth?

I guess you'll have to take it out and send it to them though. Probably worth trying UPS for that, they were very good with the half-shafts I sent across the country.

Thanks Oily - just been looking on your site for some clues as it happens. Curses! Hole in the bonnet it is then!