charlie_pank

I took down some of the garage ceiling yesterday to have a look at the joists, which is how I know their size, spacing etc...

You use a liner for each birth so it doesn't matter that it's used. They come with a pump for filling and emptying.

OK so your 2 issues now are engine hesitation below 5000 rpm and intermittent brake sponginess? The hesitancy is going to be either spark or fuel/air problem. If it misbehaves at idle, what happens if you spray esistart in the intake? If that fixes it, you need to fettle your carbs - start with a balance maybe? If the sponginess is intermittent then it sounds like you just need to change your fluid. Air bubbles in the system would be spongy all the time.

17ft

Thanks Laurence. The shocks are standard bilsteins so not adjustable. I'll go for raising the rear (the front height looks good as the lower wishbones are horizontal with me sitting in the car) I was thinking about starting with 1 cm up on both sides at the rear. Does this sound like a reasonable starting point?

No they don't. All of these points are valid, but what I want is quantification - it must be possible

yes, I have a quaife ATB, I love it.

no neutral light but wiring one would be easy, neutral switch currently feeds into gear indicator. Don't think it would stop you going for -1 though as it doesn't drop into neutral on the way down the box unless you do it very slowly and carefully. I recommend the digi gear indicator I just installed, it really works well now the rpm feed is off the ecu instead of the LT side of the ignition. Gives you a big red number so you always know where you are. Only gets confused if you feather the clutch or sit for a long time in 1st with the clutch down. Displays the right number again as soon as clutch is released again.

It might be a common earth, I'd still go through the same process to fix it, find the problem with one, find it with all!

Hi Clive, how's the engine re-insertion going? Were those things working ok beforehand? Here is the link for the manuals page for the manufacturer. I don't have any experience with Mychron, but I do have a LOT of recent experience of getting non-standard sensors to fit and talk to non-standard gauges. I suggest: 1. Pick one of the instruments that's not working 2. Find out the spec of the sender from the manufacturer/online 3. Measure the resistance of the sender under known conditions - eg. for the pressure gauge, measure the resistance at rest, then again when the engine is running - is the resistance different? 4. Do the same measurements where the sender's wires meet the gauge - are they the same as at the sensor? 5. Look at the configuration of the gauge - does it need to be re-programmed to understand the input from the sensor?

What will your partner be doing in our pool, and why will she want me to comfort her? 😬

The calculation in the link gives me a maximum load of 43 lbs / sq ft The pool will be 66 lbs / sq ft so that's a 'no' then. However, there's something missing from the calculation, because when I stand on the floor, my feet occupy less than a sq ft, yet I weigh considerablly more than 43 lbs. Perhaps I need to somehow take into account the length of the floorboards and how many joists they spread the load over?

Hi Myles, I realised I lied, I don't have a REAR arb, but I do have a front one. I'm going to try adjusting the rake anyway as a first step... You're right, I don't need the gear indicator in the middle of the box, but at the ends it is handy. There's only about 800rpm between 5th and 6th and at those speeds I'm in the 'small' bit of the tacho, so it's difficult to tell anyway, so the indicator stops me trying for 7th. At the other extreme, I can do 80 in first, so by the time I come to a corner, I can have a lot of gears to shift down through. It's really good to know exactly how many to knock it down by to get to the gear I want (normally 2nd or 1st) without trying for -1! C

Our living room is upstairs and Helen would like to give birth in it in about 5 weeks time. Our friends have given us a birthing pool which will hopefully make things easier. I've been trying to figure out if our floor will take the weight. -The pool plus mother and water is expected to weigh about 730kg -The joists are 80mm thick, 170mm deep and are spaced at 380mm apart -Unfortunately I don't know what kind of wood they're made of -The pool is going to go in the corner of the room and has a diameter of about 1700mm Can anyone help me to figure out whether the floor will take the weight? (No I don't want to test it empirically!) Thanks :) Edited by - charlie_pank on 27 May 2012 12:34:46

Still learning how to drive Kermit's new incarnation. The gear indicator helps a lot, so now that I'm in a low enough gear to feed the power in properly around the corner, I'm getting a big weight- transfer to the rear, right when I want the fronts to grip. I guess I should be getting on the power earlier to let it settle before the apex, but is there also a suspension tweak to help? I have no arb on the front, so was thinking about raising the rear platforms a bit to give more rake. Is this the right thing to do, and if so, how much should I raise it by in the first instance?

Are any of the internals upgraded? If no, then deffo cheaper to get another engine - just make sure you get it from a good source.

Couple of grand for a rebuild? I sold my K with 20,000 on it for about £400 IIRC!

It didn't work 🙆🏻 The bike's (Hall-effect) speed sensor in the transmission receives a 5v feed from the ECU The Stack speed sensor cable gives a 12v feed to its sensor so I guess there's not enough juice from the bike one. I've ordered a spare bike sensor that I'm going to mount to count the OSR wheel studs, then rig it up to the 3 speedo sensor wires of the Stack. Benedict, did you have to do anything special to get the bike sensor to work with the stack? Does it matter which way around the + and - are connected to the sensor?

about 25kg

If you're losing oil you must be burning, breathing or leaking it. If it were burning, you'd smell it, breathing, you'd find it in catch tank, leaking, you'd have a mess somewhere. I wonder whether the oil takes a bit longer than you expect to return back to the sump, thus making it look like you've lost some. Has it gone up if you check it now?

Where did the 'little on the underside of the bonnet' come from - surely this engine is only a couple of years old? How do you know you've lost that much oil?

Is it definitely burning it? At that rate I'd expect to be able to smell it in the exhaust. Perhaps it's breathing it - do you have a catch tank? If it IS burning it then it's either getting past the piston rings, or down through the valve-stem oil seals. I think there's a way of telling which - I think that if it's coming down through the oil seals, it tends not to do it while the engine is running, but only when it's stopped, so you get a puff of smoke on startup, then all is fine. Is it leaking it from anywhere?

Got to be fuel/air or spark Is there a chance that the coil is failing? Do you have a known good item you can swap it with?

Ah, ok, my misunderstanding - the crank pulley and the alternator pulley must be separate. If the car's running rough after a cambelt change, I'd be doing the alignment again for sure! C

If your cambelt disappeared while you were driving, how can you be sure that the valves aren't bent?