charlie_pank

But the shocks are at full extension when they're hanging down. So the length of spring would make no difference.

Steve, not sure if I'm misunderstanding, but I've currently got the DD tube out of the car and the shocks + springs are just hanging there. When I've finished all the other messing about, I'll slide the DD tube back in, bolt the shocks to it, attach the radius arms and A-frame and put the wheels back on. Is there something I'm missing about having to compress the springs?

Steve, sorry if I'm misunderstanding this, but it sounds like you're trying to compress the spring on the car. You have taken the whole unit off the car, right?

Quoting Mr Locust: If you have the following items it is pretty straightforward; 1. Circlip pliers 2. A vice 3. Socket with inside larger than bearing cups 4. Socket with outside smaller than bearing cups (You will be using these as a spacer to press out the bearing) General idea is to remove circlips, put large socket on one side and small socket on the other and press the cups out into the large socket IYSWIM. That's it? great, I can do that! Quoting Stationary M25 Traveller: For something spinning at high speed right next to your body I would always leave it to the experts ! Many moons ago I decided I was fed up with getting ripped off by garages in SE London, so I began working on my car myself. The future Mrs Pank expressed some concern that I was changing the brake pads, and 'what if I got it wrong?' etc... My response was this: 'I'm following the instructions clearly laid out in the Haynes manual. It's either me doing it or some teenager down at Kwik-fit. Who do you think is going to have a greater vested interest in getting it right?'

I have a 2 piece propshaft and I want to get the rear section replaced with a TRT. I know Bailey Morris will do this for me, but I was wondering, if I get them to send me a TRT of the right length, attached to half a UJ, is splitting the old UJ and then linking up the new one something I can do myself, or best left to the experts?

It doesn't have a shift light but it does have the alternator charge light, the indicator idiot light, the main beam light and I guess it must also have a connection for the backlight to come on when the headlights are on.

thanks for the top on the diff. wrong ratio though., and no info on lsd type so probably viscous. speedo has 8 pins on the back not 3 wires - any use? It's also missing the little rubber cover for the reset button

I got one. What's the going rate?

Fair enough, I don't have a K any more. Why won't bottom hose get heated by conduction?

Just to make sure we're talking about the same thing; the thermostat is the mechanical device that opens at a certain temperature to allow hot water into the radiator. The fan thermoswitch is the electronic device that turns the fan on when the coolant it is in contact with gets over a certain temperature, A quick way to check that the thermostat is opening ok is to run the engine up to temperature and then check with your hand that the radiator is hot - this means that the thermostat is opening. If that leaves you in any doubt you can remove the thermostat from its housing and stick it on the stove in a pan of cold water with a thermometer. Heat the water and make sure that the thermostat opens before the water boils. To check the thermoswitch you can test the resistance across the terminals while the system is cold. Then test it again when the system is hot. The resistance should drop significantly at the temperature the fan should come on it. It's normally written somewhere on the switch. If it's not dropping, try opening the bleed screw on the top of the radiator and seeing where the coolant level is, perhaps it's not high enough to cover the switch? It this test leaves you in any doubt you can stick it in a pan of cold water with a thermometer and heat it while attached to a multimeter to check that it switches at the right temperature. Some of the above tests will involve you draining the coolant - make sure you get rid of all the air-locks when you refill!

at 150 squids from stack the're way overpriced. You can get them here or do what I did and get a motorbike speedo sensor off ebay, glue it to the bearing carrier and wire it up to the speedo.

Chill, it's only the bulkhead. I've been putting off cutting a hole in the bonnet for the air-intake for a few months now! If you cock it up, you can always cut out an ally plate and pop-rivet it in place - that's how mine was until I put the heater in it anyway! Just make sure there's nothing in the way behind where you start drilling/cutting!

Disagree If you're ultimately looking for 200bhp, you still want to do it in steps where you feel the difference each time. Step 1 has get to be emerald and lc-1 - then you can get the self-mapping running and learn how to tweak the maps, get yourself a better map for the current setup - then whenever you do anything else to the engine/inlet/exhaust you can immediately take advantage of it. If, conversely you get the engine work done first, you'll not feel any difference because you won't be able to change your fueling or the rev-limit. If you have bigger ports and you can't up the fueling accordingly you might even go slower! Edited by - charlie_pank on 5 Jun 2012 17:00:18

Ian, I've got a 2002 one. Any good?

Simon, I also have a plastic air-intake, fuel-rail, injectors and injector loom, MFRU, propshaft, Caterham branded speedo and tacho for EU3

Figure out where it's going to go, Cut a hole considerably smaller than necessary with a grinder if you're brave or a drill/hacksaw if you're less so. File it to the correct size Bob's not your uncle, he's my dad :)

How will you control how much blip to give it? More blip required for slower gearchanges or shifting more than one gear at a time

Hi Simon, I have one doing nothing AND the ECU that's matched to it. Immobiliser is fine, ECU may be less than perfect. Let me know if you're interested in either or both - maybe swap/px for the diff?

Hi, I'd recommend getting an Emerald and an LC-1 wideband first. Get them talking to each other happily and implement the self-mapping tool, then you'll be able to make the most of whatever changes you make further down the line. There's good info about upgrade paths for this engine on the DVA website, my first upgrade after that was a bespoke 4-2-1 exhaust manifold.

Did it get through?

Definitely want it! Blatmail sent...

Any about? I stupidly just got rid of one and then realised I needed it.

ok. Anyone got a 3.92 CW&P or a whole diff for sale?

Old fuel? Low fuel pressure? Sticky injector? Air/Vacuum system leak? Do you have a wideband lambda probe? Are you able to see what happens to the mixture as you blip?

Does anyone have any advice about how to ensure I get a decent crown-wheel and pinion from some random punter on ebay?