charlie_pank

Emerald makes the ECU, Emerald recommended them. That's good enough for me!

The foil-covered mouse is an experiment. The guy who sits behind me at work is a Mac-Lover. I'm convinced that Mac-Lovers are like magpies and can't resist shiny things. So I've wrapped my mouse in tin-foil to see if he'll steal it. I took a photo of it so I could try and sell it to my other magpie friends for an excessively large amount of money.

Lots of stuff in the archives about this, it can be a number of things combined together to cause the symptoms, fixing any one of them can give results leading people to assert that they've identified the problem and assume it will be the same for everyone else: 1. Battery doesn't have enough charge 2. Alternator isn't charging properly 3. Wiring between starter and battery is too hot, or degraded 4. Connections on starter are 'dry' 5. Relay is 'cooked' 6. FIA switch has poor contacts 7. Starter solenoid full of gunk 8. Starter solenoid piston scored/sticky

Head type (eg. Hex-socket) Size of hex socket (eg 6mm allen key) Diameter of head Depth of head Type of shoulder (eg countersunk (incl angle) or 90 degree) Distance between thread end and shoulder Outside diameter of thread Inside diameter of thread Thread profile Number of thread starts Pitch (length of shank between 2 threads) Lead (length of shank between 2 threads of the same start) Shank profile (angle of taper) Length of shank Material used (eg. 12.9 - high tensile) I've got the damn thing sitting on the table at home. How the hell am I to find a replacement for it given the number of parameters?

Clive, even when you're twisting the rubber inside the propshaft, you'll be able to set a torque. Your engine puts about 80 lbft through it I think. Alternatively, if you push a long screwdriver through the UJ up at the sprocket flange, you'll stop the non-TRT part of the propshaft from rotating, so you can tighten without the flex of the rubber. If it has come loose, I suggest a liberal application of threadlock before you re-tighten! C

After consulting with a structural engineer, I have the solution, now installed because as of yesterday we're 'in the zone'... linky

As on the other similar post about this recently, I recommend starting with the ECU upgrade and a wideband lambda probe. I went with an Emerald and an Innovate LC-1. If you do load of other stuff before the ECU, then you'll not be getting the full advantage of the upgrades you're making, and could actually be damaging stuff. Eg. If you port the head to increase gas-flow then there'll be more air rushing into the cylinder, but the same amount of fuel as before so it'll burn hotter, increasing the risk of detonation and head-gasket problems.

Rich, if the limiting factor is how fast the ecu can react to inputs (eg. Afr, tps, rpm), we really shouldn't be worrying about whether the map was created by man or machine, we should be worrying about whether the ECU can get to the right bit of the map in time!

Yeah, I know it's not going to fill 100%, which would mean there's a smaller volume of gas, which will reduce the velocity I calculated. The fuel is going to burn and make gas which wasn't there before which will mean the gas is traveling faster down the pipe than I calculated. Surely we must be in the right ball-park with my calculations - I'd be interested to learn more. Even without them we can know that if 0-60 takes 5 seconds, if you were at max revs throughout then you'd have 1000 datapoints 5ms apart...

How long do you think the lambda probe needs to get a reliable reading? here they reckon the lc-1 can read in 0.005s At 7000 rpm, you're doing 116.66 rps So you're doing 0.583 revolutions each 0.005s Half a revolution is one cylinder firing (in a normal IL4) So at 7000 rpm the lc-1 can read individual cylinders firing. But it takes some time for the gas to get to the probe... Rover 1600 cylinder has a volume of 400cc. Each revolution has 2 cylinders blowing out gas = 800cc At 7000 rpm it is blowing out 7000 x 800cc of gas = 5,600,000 cc of gas per min This is is 5.6 m^3 per min or 0.0833m^3 per sec I reckon my exhaust has a 3cm radius so the cross sectional area is .002827 m sq At that area, 0.0833m^3 would occupy .0833/.002827 = 31 m Therefore the gas is moving at 31m/s The distance between my lambda boss and the cylinder must be about a metre so it takes .0322s to get there .0322 + .005 = .0372s At 116.66 rps that's 4.3 revolutions or 8.6 sparks between a squirt and a reading - is that too much of a delay for your ECU to map on the fly? What if it built that delay into its calculations? When you do your fastest 0-60 run you'll go from 2500 to 7000 rpm in 5 seconds I know it's not linear, but let's assume it is... In 5 seconds you'll get 1000 points on your AFR / rpm graph is that insufficient? How many points would an RR map in a session and how many would they interpolate? Please someone check my arithmetic, I normally make a silly mistake somewhere! Edited by - charlie_pank on 15 Jun 2012 17:08:33

A narrowband (normal bog-standard one) isn't a great deal of use except under some very specific circumstances. Widebands however can be used to read the AFR. Any RR you go to will have a wideband, so you don't need one of your own if you're going to get them to map it. There are 2 schools of thought though, one says, as above that you must go to an RR to get the fueling right. The other says that you can map it on the road if you have a wideband and use the Emerald's (or other ECU's) self-mapping function - with this function all you do is set the target AFR and the ECU makes the appropriate adjustments all the time to reach the AFR values.

Martin, totally fair enough - just checking you had considered it. I chose not to sell and re-buy for emotional reasons and also because I wanted to do it myself. Gotta do something for entertainment here over the long winter evenings - we don't have a telly!

What are your reasons for upgrading? Normally cheaper in the long run to sell yours and buy one with the spec you want.

I don't know, but I guess Bilsrein would

Yep - reduces the drivetrain shunt from the bike-box Edited by - charlie_pank on 14 Jun 2012 14:29:16

Try it and see?

If you're going to manually adjust based on the results, you'd need some kind of unit to datalog to give you the info you needed to make the adjustments.

I agree that the spare probe is just plugging the hole. With a wideband unit, things happen too quickly to be able to tweak manually as you're driving. You either log the AFR along with throttle position, fueling and RPM and then make adjustments to the map later, or you run something like the Emerald setup which has a map for target AFR and makes its own adjustments based on what the wideband tells it to achieve the required AFR all the time.

I can't see why you'd put the lambda on a single primary like that instead of at the collector like the one that has been removed. You'll only know the mixture of one cylinder with your current setup. Maybe the perpetrator didn't like soldering and didn't want to extend the wires/

It sounds from your description like you're fairly sure that it's a problem with the gauges rather than the oil-pressure and water temp. I'm inclined to agree with you. If you can be bothered to drain your coolant, then you could take out the water temp gauge and stick it in a pan of hot water. If you extend the leads and use a camp-stove you could even do it with it still attached to the loom, then if you switch the ignition on you'll be able to see whether your thermometer in the pan of water agrees with the temp-gauge reading. Assuming it is a false reading... Does the temp-reading immediately change when you 'back-off'? If yes then I suspect you have some kind of electrical problem - probably that something is earthing where it shouldn't - first candidate might be an HT lead's insulation breaking down? How's the engine performing at high revs?

Thanks VE, that's my plan. There seems to be plenty of room inside the tunnel at the moment. I can't imagine they would make it thick enough to be a problem!

stu, I can't see the pictures. It's not normal to have 2 lambda probes connected. Perhaps someone fitted a wideband and didn't tidy up the old one properly. what engine do you have, and in what state of tune?

Bradders, the springs are seperable from the dampers. I wonder whether it's the springs or the dampers that are making the ride too harsh. Perhaps setting up the race ones correctly would give you the behaviour you're after... Sometimes race cars are run on the bump-stops, which gives a very harsh ride. If you measure the length of exposed damper rod with someone sitting in the driver's seat, then measure again with the wheel off the floor and the damper fully extended, you know how much bump:droop you're running. Rule of thumb is 1:2 if you're way outside this you might be hitting the bumpstops or topping out causing your ride problems... This can be fixed by adjusting the platforms...

PARDON?!

What's the problem you're trying to solve? Apart from being less adjustable, what will the new dampers give you that the old ones don't - is the damping rate the same? Are you keeping the same springs?