KnifeySpoony

The TPS at my local ford parts counter was around $45/ea. But that's here in the US of A. There's a bunch of off-brand ones on amazon/ebay for even less.

Those that changed back to radius arms, do you track the car, and what handling differences did you notice?

My sender is in the oil tank, which is after the cooler (coldest point). I have seen various numbers thrown around re: the delta between tank temp and sump temp - does anyone actually have any hard data on this as measured on their car? I know it will depend on the cooler and tank/plumbing setup, as well as ambient temp, speed etc, but I have wondered how much hotter it really is in the bearings, head, and sump while underway.

I know many people would say there's nothing wrong with those oil temps with modern good oils. But having some headroom is surely a good idea. You can always block it off for cooler days. Unfortunately with my pusher fan, it's not easy to block my cooler, so i just block the lower air inlet on my race style nosecone, which only helps a little to keep temps up while street driving. Cold morning drives to the track on the freeway have me fearing for my engine.

Wow that's a big cooler. I'm curious to see how your temps respond. Also maybe I missed it, but do you drive it on the street as well? With my little stock cooler on my newer 420R, temps in the tank are scary low on the street, but that's without a Tstat. Will be interesting to see how you get on. To add some data points to the thread - my oil temps on track usually run about 80C after fully up to temp. Highest I've seen was 88C. Water temp around 95C peak. Oil pressure never drops below about 4.2bar even at its hottest. I'm running the Motul 5/50.

I'm very happy with my Antigravity ATX12HD. Weighs almost nothing and no issues starting.

Well, hopefully the softer hose is enough to preserve my radiator. The first one only lasted about 3k miles and maybe 10 trackdays. Mind you the leak was miniscule, but I changed it out as soon as I noticed it. Current one has about 1000miles and 4 days on it. Time will tell.

Ah Ok, I thought you were criticizing my solution. You can the see OEM routing is bad and the hose is under some tension to make the bend back to radiator inlet. The inlet pipe is angled coming out of the rad, presumably to address this, but didn't work well. That combined with the super stiff hose and vibrations must be contributing to failures. Hence my silicone hose.

Here is the standard setup with original hose.

It looks like you have a totally different radiator and different mounting setup. Also is your car an SV?

Because of the bend in the hose, it does ride up over the catch can a bit. I thought that might make it harder to bleed but I had no issue. And because the hose is so much more flexible, I can actually just move it over to remove the catch can. Previously I had to suck out the oil, because the old hose trapped it.

sorry for upside down pic

FWIW here's what my grafted 620R hose looks like. Looks slightly bent but it's so flexible there isn't any load on the radiator.

My vote is for TPS.

Just hand sanded with whatever I had lying around.