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If you do need to remove the fuel hose from the tank end, be aware that connector is designed to have the locking tabs pried away from the hose. They are not push-in tabs as normally used on electrical connectors. There are some close-ups of the connector in this post: https://usa7s.net/ips/topic/13992-520r-sv-build-has-commenced/?do=findComment&comment=131113 Also, if you do remove the floor -- which can be incredibly maddening -- my recommendation is to cut it into two pieces to make future removal an easy job. -John

Great list above. One difference with my installation was to replace the connector on the loom to match version used on the Colvern. This makes future TPS changes plug and play with no extra work. Given I've had them fail in the past and have also swapped them out when troubleshooting, I wanted to optimize for that scenario. If you don't want to cut the factory loom, another option is to make a short adapter. When installing the injector plugs, drop them in the freezer the day before. As an added measure, I also used Loctite 648 which is designed for tight fitting slip joints and maintains break away strength at high temps better than the similar Loctite 680. The plugs in my other Duratec were fit without any sealant and have never budged, so the Loctite may be overkill rather than strictly necessary.

In my case it didn't solve the clearance issue, but given production tolerances, it could for @Jonesy365. My remaining interference is very slight; I don't notice it when fitting the nosecone, but the wear marks from the grill are clear and sufficiently deep on the right side to indicate it should be addressed. The wear marks on the left are noticeably shallower but still present. My guess is the two parts just touch; however, vibration and flexing while driving is enough to tighten that gap and wear away the softer aluminum radiator. I'll double check all clearances and then either drill new holes like Jonsey or simply oval the existing holes by ~5mm. Either way, I want to do this before I blat on Saturday.

That was the before photo with the brackets as supplied by Caterham. As I mentioned in that post, I bent the brackets to form a parallel surface to the radiator.

Yes, me. I recently discovered wear marks on the top of the radiator caused by contact from the vent screen where it bonds to the underside of the nosecone. I temporarily inserted pieces of excess rubber trim for the rear wings to stop the rubbing; temporarily because I intended a more permanent fix, and because the trim pieces fell out during the subsequent test drive 🙂 My plan is to slightly oval the radiator mount holes to drop the radiator by a few mm, but I'd love to hear what Caterham suggests.

I don't recall those being hard to find. Have you checked the fastener pack for the cooling system?

Here are a couple of photos taken during my build that show the mounts in place. As seen in the second photo, the factory didn't sufficiently bend the bracket to create a parallel mounting surface for the radiator, so that had to be done to fit. It's a thick piece that took some persuasion to get right.

I used slightly shorter bolts which just squeezed in under the diagonal but were still long enough to extend past the chassis tube by ~4 threads. The bolts supplied with my kit were much longer than needed.

I fabricated a simple removable block off plate for the oil cooler to minimize its effect in road driving. It seems to help, but it's still quite slow to warm up compared to my Westfield. That car has a 230hp Duratec with Raceline wet sump, no oil cooler, and a much smaller radiator. It's never had issues with high oil temps on the road, even in very hot weather, and operating oil temperature is also reached much more quickly. Factor in the Caterham's dry sump with extra oil capacity and the oil cooler, it seems overkill for the road. The Laminova-style oil cooler, as mentioned in many threads on this subject, seems the best solution for road use.

Really nice work! Someone needs to sell that throttle cable adapter. I tried to radius the edges of the factory opening to reduce the likelihood of snapping a cable, but this is a far better solution.

I had to place the throttle cable in a large figure 8 to run the linkage in the back but it's worked well thus far. The lack of space in that area was certainly challenging, and it's even more so with your closer-to-stock setup. Looking forward to seeing your final solution.

I had trouble with the upper hose as well. My set up is a little different than yours as I'm not using the submarine mount for the water temp sensor, the throttle linkage is on #3&4, and I'm using a different belt tensioner setup, but it might give you some alternate ideas. The key for me was using a convoluted hose and printing a bracket to hold it in position. Pictures and a few details are in this post: https://usa7s.net/ips/topic/13992-520r-sv-build-has-commenced/?do=findComment&comment=134367

A similar question was asked and answered here on USA7s about the tachometer. Based on the photos, it looks like the connector is the same. Provided someone can confirm they are, you'll have your answer. -John

An Admin can configure which editing functions show based on device size. The default limits the options for small screens (i.e. mobile) given the limited space, but you can control which show. You can also change carriage return behavior so that there is no extraneous line inserted. Drop me a PM if you want me to walk you through the necessary steps in the admin console for either change. -John

I did a little more digging and this is an iPhone setting that will transfer a photo in a compatible format when emailing or texting, which is another way of saying it will convert HEIC files to JPEGs given the former is not universally supported. To enable this, go to Settings, then Photos, then at the bottom of the screen, set "Transfer to Mac or PC" to Automatic.