andy_harries

Ah, makes sense, thanks Geoff.

Thanks for the pic and the dimensions Geoff - the nose block looks quite a bit higher than the one Scott posted (if the number from the pic is correct, its 42mm high). You mentioned that it does give it a nose up angle, but that would be quite a bit upwards with the BMW diff (I think mine is the same as in Scott's photo 'Ears' look like a cunning plan though!

@ScottR400D That looks genius. Going to start rooting around in my garage for some scrap wood to make my own version! @Simon.rogers - I will be in touch!

Thanks chaps. The diff is black, so I assume that its a BMW one. @ScottR400D - assume that I need to take the oil out first for two reasons - reduce the weight (I;ve read it's a heavy lump) and also otherwise it'll come pouring our when I remove the first driveshaft?

Hi all One of my thoughts for this winter was getting a limited slip diff installed in my 2016 Roadsport in the vain hope that it helps with my lack of talent on the track :) My MOT is due in January and I had been planning to take the car to Caterham Gatwick to get it checked over, MOT and install the LSD they sell. However, reading the Titan thread on here has made me think that I'd be better off getting a Tracsport version installed instead. Given the new lockdown means track days are off (just had an email cancelling a day at Silverstone next week ) as is blatting around the place, I was going to bring forward my plan. Is it as simple as dropping out the diff (following the excellent information available on here !), emptying out the oil, boxing it up and sending it off to either SPC or Meteor Motorsport to get it fitted? Or have I missed something? No idea what type of diff I have (BMW?), but its definitely an open one (wheels turn in opposite directions when turned when the back is jacked up). Would they need to know, or can they just see when they've got it? I'd take the whole car to Meteor Motorsport to get the Tracsport diff fitted, but I live in Watford so its a long old hike over there and the Welsh seem to be rebuilding Offa's Dyke to keep us plague infected English residents out

I recently changed the oil filter on my Sigma and spent ages trying to get the chain strap but I just couldn't get into the right position given where the filter was and the positioning of the chassis tubes. Bought this from Halfords and it was off in 5 mins. Up from below, loop around and tighten and there is enough movement between the two chassis tubes to move it 1/5 turn each time. https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/automotive-tools/halfords-advanced-professional-oil-filter-removal-band-926543.html

Have read the full thread and must say this is the first time I've been glad to continue to have an open diff on my car. I was thinking the next upgrade would be an LSD - looks like I'll need to choose carefully even though its not a Duratec engine (150hp Sigma Roadsport)

"but Donington is a bit nearer and most definitely a favourite, they also have pretty tough drive-by limits" I always laugh at the imposition of noise limits at Donington, given when the planes go over you have to stop talking as the noise is so loud you can't hear anyone even if they are right next to you. We had a few 420s at Donington at the club track day last monday, don't think any of them had any noise issues there. In fact, unlike Bedford I've not seen any Caterhams have an issue at Donington when I;ve been there

A very wet day meant me tiptoeing around as I'm still not confident with the car on track in those conditions. Hopefully I didn't hold anyone up too much! Good to meet some members in real life, suitably socially distanced of course!

I used the files from your blog - they worked well with 3dprintdirect.co.uk Tried them for the first time at the club day at Donington yesterday, worked very well to stabilise the mirrors at high speed (compared to mirrors attached to the doors)

Hi Baggiebird How many tie down straps and what width are they? Also, is it just the straps, or do they have hooks and ratchets on them? Thanks Andy

From the further posts I assume you don't have Tillets so pics of my set up wouldn't be helpful? In case they are, I;ve put links to them below. The two lower straps come through the bottom hole in the seat and they're pretty comfortable really. I don't tend to use them on the road as it takes longer to get in and out, but always on the track. Never had an issue (once I got the straps adjusted to the right positions). https://i.imgur.com/XEpFi7L.jpg https://i.imgur.com/9KWjBpg.jpg https://i.imgur.com/I0h1uyW.jpg https://i.imgur.com/d3H9LkW.jpg https://i.imgur.com/lySxGg7.jpg If they do happen to be useful but you want different angles then let me know. I'm working from home on a very boring presentation and happy for any excuse to get into the garage for a break!

Are you after a pic of the straps bolted underneath the seat and then coming up through the seat hole? I have six point harness and can take some pics

"I managed to kick the tray where I had all the nut and bolts." Sounds like the kind of thing I do. Turn a simple job in to a longer one through clumsiness!

Had the same issue with my brake lights this weekend; shorting the connections makes them work so a dead switch for me as well. Frustrating, but a simple fix, or it would have been if I hadn't had to drill out one of the screws holding the cover in for the pedal box!

Excellent, thanks.

Is there any clarity on the new rules being announced on outdoor meetings being announced for England today on how they might affect track days?

I've booked - will be my first time at a club trackday, though I've driven Donington many times before. Looking forward to meeting some of you, appropriately socially distanced of course!

Thanks, sent a message!

Would you be able to post pics of the mirrors attached with the bracket to a car? Amazon pics are very helpful for the brackets but would be good to see them all together as you'd prefer to sell as a set.

It's a nice to have rather than anything vital. The idea of the max revs recall is that if you say missed a gear on track, you can look back when you're back in the pits to see just how high the revs got to guage potential engine damage. Useful for those of us with less than Hamilton-esqe track skills!

So, the one cylinder setting seems to have done the trick. Annoying, but at least the lights seems to be working. I have to put the proper connections in now (swapping the blocks for proper crimps etc) and then take it on the road before I'm sure. What still doesn't work is the max revs display. Apparently my max revs so far is....... 6. Yes. Just 6.

Thanks Macca - I think I have stall activated so will try switching that off. Its definitely connected to white with the black line (see pic below, not the one I'm holding but the lower one between white/brown and white/green), and I have it at 2600 but nothing is coming up when I take the engine revs up over that.

Unfortunately there wasn't a spare wire for the signal (see photos in this thread: https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/posi-tap-connector-wire-dre-shift-light) so I had to chop into the tacho loom. There were spare wires for power and earth though so I've used them. I'm pretty sure that I have the right wire (in that its white with a black strip, following the standard car wiring colours) and that when disconnected the tacho stops showing the revs and when connected it does. I'll try setting it to one cylinder as suggested by Richard above. Any other things I could try in my search for a solution? Could my earth connection be poor, or would the DRE unit not switch on at all if that were the case?

So, having some trouble getting my DRE Shift Lights to show anything. This is the situation: Power is fine - I switch on the igntion and it lights up, I can apply the settings and they stay there once I have switched off the ignition and the cut off switch. I'm pretty sure that I have the right cable for the rev signal. I've chopped the white with black stripe cable in the tacho loom - with that wire cut the tacho doesn't show the revs when the engine is on, and when I have the two ends plugged into a block (for ease of diagnosis - I'll crimp it all properly once working) the tacho works again. With the green DRE cable in the same block the tacho works (so there must be a good connection in the block), but the shift lights remain resolutely dark. Pretty sure that the green DRE cable is plugged into the block fine. I've set the low point (i.e. the point the first lamp lights ) at the lowest point (2600 RPM ) and have taken the engine revs over this but the lights don't come on (I'll change that to much higher that when I know its working). When I check the max RPM value that should be stored in the memory, its 0000 The only thing that does seem to happen is as I take the engine over 2600 RPM the number '6' appears briefly on the LCD display, then goes out again. From that, there are a few possibilities I guess: The unit is broken somehow I haven't sorted the earth properly - I'm connected into a black wire and the unit seems to be operating with power, but maybe the earth isn't good enough and is interfering with the pulse signal The wire isn't actually the right one - it performs another function and the tacho not working when it is cut is a co-incidence.Other thoughts? I'm going to drop DRE an email to ask them as well.