Toby S

I thought k series were normal if between 2-4 bar (28 - 56 PSI) - my 1400 supersport typically stays in that range (slightly higher on start up, and sometimes below - down to 1.5 bar on idle when hot) - haven't a clue when plugs are out etc

Metallic Burgundy (nice colour) On the Evesham to Pershore Road about 2pm - I gave you a flash (I was in the tinpot Passat, unfortunately)

Green with white stripe - only a passing glance but I'm sure it had KAR in the registration (the prisoner)on a suffice plate

PM sent

Is the silencer stil available

205/60 R13 on the rear with 185/60 R13 on the front is a good combination. Rears fill the wheel arches nicely and fit on the standard 13x6 minilights

Hi Jonathan In 1 - RAF Hethel- RAF 303 hurricane squadron was based there in 1946/7 - and 10 years later ... I suppose another one is RAF Kenley, which is between Kenley and Caterham was a hurricane base as well during the Battle of Britain. A bit tenuous I know - any others ?

Got spotted once after the first 2 months of ownership (and replied) and then never again in the next 3 and a bit years, and have covered 10,000 miles in that time - seen other Sevens in that time, probably 5 or 6 times, but haven't had any replies - perhaps some of them were Westfields. Interestingly when I was spotted, I had my dad in the car, who was 95 at the time, and must have been the oldest guy to wriggle his backside into a Caterham - getting him out was fun !!! I remember he described the experience as more frightening than flying Hurricanes during the war !!

Cheers for the suggestions guys I think at this stage I do a clean and re-oil and see how I get on Stu - I saw a similar thing (home made air box) on Alcester racing sevens website http://www.alcester-racing-sevens.com/heat_management.htm which sound pretty similar to what you were saying and agree it might be worth thinking about, although I'm not sure there is that much clearance between the radiator and the nose cone, and their's seemed to stop at the radiator (I'd thought you'd need to do a hump back bridge effect over the radiator with the aluminium to get any real ait scoop effect). Alternative I suppose would be to enclose and either side vent through the side of the nose cone behind the radiator or do an air scoop out the top behind the radiator, I suppose - I've seen a couple of air scoop bolt on mods on a few performance sites but there not that cheap - key I suppose is deciding whether it will make a significant diff to performance before spending the cash Your point on the butterfly in the throttle body is a good one - did that a couple of years ago and it made a noticeable difference at full throttle so to anyone who hasn't done that already. RJ - Like your thinking - which went through my mind when I was typing the original query Regards

Comma 5W50 for me

Hi All I have a 1992 1400 K series Supersport - Currently has a K&N cylinder air filter around 7 inches long 10 inch diameter which sits at the front of the engine bay in the nose cone and its looking pretty shabby (may well have been the original - cars done 36,000 miles) so I'm thinking changing. Looked on K&N website and there's more universal filters than you can poke a stick at - However I've seemed to have found one which looks a direct replacement. However now the questions:- Cylinder filter or cone - seems to be a very similar one which is cone shaped (same length, diameter and flange diameter) - has anybody any experience of both and can advise whether there is any difference in performance During my googling, I found an article testing the induction resistance of performance filters and the foam Pipercross and IFG filters seemed to come out very well (less resistance than the K&N one tested albeit the K&N tested was a smaller filter) - has anyone tried the Piper cross of IFG or any foam filters - any comments on performance Does anyone have any other recommendations Given the position of the filter (just behind the radiator, sitting on the offside of the car close to the side of the nose cone) - has anyone tried putting a vent/air intake hole in the o/s side of nose cone in an attempt to improve air intake of colder air - I've always wondered whether it would make any discernable difference in performance. Am I just thinking too much (whatever you do won't make any significant difference) and I should just get the direct comparable one (and probably a life !!)Main use of the car is fast road blats Cheers Toby

Same as above for me too with R888R's also during the summer on 13x6 rims all round. Works for me too in terms of balance although I've only got a 1400 tweaked supersport kicking out circa 135-140 bhp

Red P reg with clams heading north between junctions 5 and 6 around Droitwich. Brave - Not really the car for motorways in the rush hour !!

Hmmn - interesting article- Must admit, I was only going on the the manufacturer's recommendations who suggest extreme care in heavy rain as they are prone to aquaplaning - I've only been out on damp roads (i.e. no standing water) and would agree they are fine (plenty of grip) - would totally agree with previous comments that they are brilliant in the dry. I'm normally driving with Brookland screens between April - October (the month I have the R888R's on), so when I do get caught (it's p*****g it down) grip is the least of my worries, as not being able to seen anything tend to slow you down more than sufficiently and generally you'll find me parked up under a tree with the brolley up !!

I use Yoko A539 (185/60's all round) in winter and autumn and early spring and then R888R in the summer (although go for 205 60's on the rear) on 1400 Supersport on 13 inch rims. The 205's on the rear fill the wheel arch nicely see below although best to avoid driving it on the R888R is the p*****g down rain

I run Toyo R888R's - 185/60 on front 205/60 on the rear on 13 x6 minilights. Very good in dry, OK in wet as long its not completely peeing it down and you're driving through puddles - they are prone to aquaplane in really heavy conditions. I prefer the slightly higher profile than the 55 profile as i) gives you more warning before break away on the limits and ii) fill the rear wheel arches nicely.

I suppose it depends what profile tyres you go for - I run 205/60 (rear) 185/60 (front) R888R's on a set of 13 x 6 minilites and they fill the wheel arch reasonably well - I also find the higher profile gives you more warning before breakaway and also gives a bit of secondary suspension.

When I changed my rear wheel bearings - I found the hub didn't spin when I used a borrowed Snap-on electric impact driver/wrench, having previously tried removing the nuts with a breaker bar and failing miserably (hub would just spin) - no doubt the physicists among us can explain

I've got a 1993 1400 K Supersport and look forward to the day when I've only got 1 rattle !!!

I run Toyo R888R's 185 60 on the front and 205 60 on the rears on 13" minilites during spring, summer and autumn (need to be a bit careful in a downpour, though) and then Yoko A539 185 60 all round during winter. I prefer the flex of taller sidewalls both from a comfort perspective plus also the warning you get before rear end break away when being a bit over spirited

Good choice - I've got one, but its not for sale You missed a belter on e-bay around a couple of weeks ago - went for circa £7,800

Not sure on new caterhams what front brake calliper is used - if its still the spitfire single calliper, I found with my 93 Supersport using shims held everything in place nicely. You can get shim kits from either Moss Europe or Rimmer Brothers under Spitfire parts

An absolute bargain for anyone wanting to get into sevening, even at the buy it now price - hope it goes to a good home

Black with a silver stripe going East - me going west - lovely day for a Blat

Thanks Guys Also got a separate message from a member as well