Toby S

I had one of them too - a lot of mine were hand me downs from my elder brother who is 65 now and no doubt many of those were hand me downs to him from my big brother who would now be 70 if he was still with us - proper boys toys all made in the UK !!!! I also remember a white VW pick up truck with a formula ford racing car in BRG on a a red trailer - May even have been a lotus P.S. Jonathan have you been having a rummage in your attic

Hi had one of those too SM25T - memories come flooding back Seem to remember it being a Cambridge rather than a Westminster though - is that anal ort what ?!?! Also had later 70's model - metallic blue Beetle with a gold steering wheel on the roof I wished I'd kept my corgi cars - some of them may be worth a bob or 2 now. My favorites were a light metallic blue Buick Riviera, plus, obviously my sliver James Bond DB5 complete with ejector seat Favorite Corgis as a kid - New thread anyone ?

Demon tweaks do a mechanical gauge kit for the k series caterham engine (or did) with low pressure warning light. Fitted mine around 4 years ago after a very fickle standard electronic gauge and sender which when it recorded anything didn't move much once warmed up - Big thumbs up for this kit as it works really well

Demon tweaks do a mechanical gauge kit for the k series caterham engine (or did) with low pressure warning light. Fitted mine around 4 years ago after a very fickle standard electronic gauge and sender which when it recorded anything didn't move much once warmed up - Big thumbs up for this kit as it works really well

Carpets on tunnel but not on floor - always been that way although I do have some mats I can put in although prefer just bare Ali floors

Then there is the other debate about use of sidelights v headlights

More seriously though, and I had a similar problem on my 1400 Supersport K series - given there is no click or anything, I would suggest you check the ignition key barrel connections and barrel itself - that was the problem on mine when I had a similar problem and in the end I ditched the barrel and went for a dash mounted rocker type ignition switch

#7 You mean a BL Longbridge screwdriver

Big thumbs up for Big red from me too Had the front Girling calipers refurbed by them for £200 including painting them yellow to match the nose cone and they did a really superb job for my 30 year old K series 1400 Supersport. Planning to get them to do the rear calipers this winter - not much more expensive than getting new ones - originals are off a Sierra I believe

PM sent

Yes please Chris - PM sent

A bit of harpic bog cleaner on those primaries and collector with wet and dry and elbow grease will get them back to colour. I have - the same 4 into 1 primaries although with a VHPD collector (wider bore exit than standard) and VHPD box - again with wider bore inlet and tail pipe - bought it a few years ago off here - can't tell from pictures whether that's what you got - made a bit of difference on my 1400 Supersport when I fitted it, but not that much so would agree with #4 Trick with all the k series (especially the smaller capacity ones) is to keep them spinning at 5,000 rpm plus for any real grunt

The old Rubery Owen Ro-styles - certainly a blast from the past - went all sorts include MGB's, Midgets and Escort 1300E's

Me too - I've got mine at the bottom too

PM sent re Quickshift gearlever

I know unlikely but I thought I'd ask

#12 - That's the kit I used on my 1400 Supersport and it works really well (seem to remeber oit wasn't as much as that but it was circa 3+ years ago - much more accurate readings and you get far more movement than the old electrical kit which even before it gave up the ghost didn't show much movement even when it was deciding to work - With the new gauge its 65psi on start up -moving to 70 with throttle blips, settles at 20-22 psi when fully warmed up at tick over and then reads between 40 and 60 PSI when driving depending on revs #12 suggestion re insulation - definitely agree with getting some insulation around the braided pipe if you pass through the hole where various wires and the speedo cable goes through - its all a bit tight and my first attempt almost cooked the electrics - In the end I put a separate hole in the bulkhead to feed the pipe through

What about - number plate reversing light and then a high mounted stop lamp on the roll bar acting as you fog light - in the X if FIA roll bar - would be the same brightness albeit not sure on the height requirerment in regulations - could alternative sling one under the fuel tank. Must admit mine is only on the car for the MOT as never use it (can't remember last time I used it in the tin top either and I do circa 20,000 miles a year)

Bit late to this one - sorry I have a 1992 car with brooklands and removed the wiper motor some time ago. Oval/Lozenge shaped holes in scuttle Dropped spindles down through holes and then managed to pull the whole assembly through without removing the scuttle once disconnecting the wiper motor from its cradle- need to do it slowly push/pulling it away from the wiring as it gets caught but it came out reasonably OK - certainly have had fiddlier jobs. I agree with previous comment - you'll be surprised how heavy the motor is

Fuzz Townsend has or had one which looked pretty similar I seem to remember

Tyres - Toyo R888R's are pretty good -205/60 R13 on rears, 185/60 R13 on the front Adjustable platforms - Protech are reasonable priced options Corner weighting Aero or Brookland screens - feels like you're going 20mph faster

May mean those garages offering choice of a deccelerometer in the footwell or the resistance rollers get rid of the former which my local garage uses only on a few cars with low ground clearance (including my Caterham) Don't fancy my handbrake (under the dash sort) being tested on resistance rollers - bleeding useless at the best of times and very rarely used

I use Harpic bog cleaner on mine with a scourer/fine wet and dry with similar results

#12 - probably because Protech were preferred suppliers to Westfield for a number of years

Protech for me too - good value and good quality