Toby S

About 3pm - lovely day for it

When I bought my 1400 k supersport - I couldn't get normal operating temperature much above 65, other than in the height of summer where it went to around 70 during spirited road use, which is miles too cool. Found that the thermostat, had been removed (I suspected it was either that or the thermostat was jammed open). Fitted a standard Rover 88 degree thermostat and it now sits at a nice 82/83 all day long - depending on ambient temperature (other than in traffic when fan kicks in at a squeak over 90 degrees and quickly gets the temperature down to 88 before cutting out. Admittedly. I only use for spirited road use not racing, but it seems to keep a safe temperature range 82- 90 in road conditions. I'd guess the more holes in the thermostat, the lower operating temperature would be maintained, but I wouldn't fancy a temperature below 80 when revving through to 7600.

Go and have a look on this:- www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/542070/in-service-exhaust-emission-standards-for-road-vehicles-18th-edition.pdf Gives chapter and verse on requirements and also has details by vehicle. Caterham is on page 35 of the adobe reader format (p19 of section 1) and reads "The VIN Code consists of the 6th, 8th and 9th digit of the VIN number. Where the 10th digit of the VIN is equal to or less than 'W' and the 6th digit is 'C' or 'K', the vehicle concerned should be considered as 'amateur built' and as such should receive a visual smoke test only" I went armed with the relevant pages for the first MOT when I bought the car (it hadn't been MOT'd for 9 years) and although it was a 1992 Supersport, it was only registered in 1997 and is on P plates (long story - but in fact it had been a factory built car for Silverstone) and I was expecting a problem - in the end I didn't need the pages as the MOT station just did a smoke test. Good luck Regards Toby

P.S, just thought - the Rimmer Bros part would be the standard Rover engine part - seem to remember reading somewhere that the sump for the K series engines were modified for some reason (ground clearance ?) by Caterham, so I guess the oil pick up pipe may also be a modified part too - although for £10 it may be worth a try

Had a look on Rimmer Brothers www.rimmerbros.co.uk Had a quick look and they seemed to have an OEM one for under £10.

Potentially interested - have you got any pictures

Not quite the same, but I run Yokohama A539 185/60 R13 as everyday road tyres and they are OK - still plenty of warning when reaching limits despite slightly lower profile

You can fit 205's to 13 x 6's albeit it is pushing it to the limit - the guy who owned my car before me ran 205/60 R13 on the rear and 185/60 r13 on the front - Yoko AO48's and reckoned he got near spot on balanced handling using the car for track days. On buying the car, given I was using mainly on road, I went for Yoko A539's 185/60 R13 all round which are fine, albeit at limits I do get oversteer. The car is pushing out 135 bhp.

I know when I changed my discs, the hex socket for the hub nut wouldn't go through the hole in the centre of the wheel hence the problem with getting the hub not to turn when in the air when using a breaker bar but solved with the use of the impact wrench - I've got original minilite 13x6's By the way, and just in case you didn't realise, the NSR hub is a left handed thread (to loosen turn clockwise, to tighten anti-clockwise) - well it was on mine which is a 1993 dedion supersport.- will save you jumping up and down on a breaker bar tightening the thing up when your trying to get the hub off !! Good luck

If you can get access to a half decent impact wrench, you may get away without having to put the drive shaft back on - when I changed my rear discs I couldn't get the hub to stop spinning even with the hand brake on and someone standing on the foot brake - remember its meant to be done up at 200 Ib ft +. With an impact wrench the hub nut simply flew off within 10 secs of the impact wrench attack. I also found the impact wrench good for getting the 4 disc bolts out given they would have probably been in for a few good years, together with a bit of WD of course. I didn't need a puller when I did mine Don't know where you are, but I'm in Worcester (although work in Birmingham city centre) if you want to borrow my impact wrench and the hexagonal sockets (which you need to use an impact wrench) - I have the 41mm one needed as well Regards

I got a Sealey 24v non lithium battery one fairly cheap - around £100 a year or so ago. Breezes through wheel nuts (although I only ever torque them up to 60 Ib/ft), but also got the rear hub nuts off which were meant to be at 200Ib/ft - albeit loads of clicking and needed a charge afterwards - quotes 325 ib/ft Adequate bit of kit although I think we would recommend the lithium model if buying again which I think was around £30 more

Hi I was in the Black with yellow nose cone 1400 supersport heading south - lovely late afternoon for a celebratory blat after watching Warriors win their first game of the season against Falcons Regards Toby

Cheers

I'm I right the rear hub assembly on 1993 De Dion cars is off a Sierra and therefore replacement wheel bearings would be be Sierra ones. Although no movement in the wheels, mine seem to be making a right racket and I think need replacing.

Interested in the half hood -se nt you a separate message

Thanks for the advice guys Given the closeness - SP Components seems a good call which I'll try Probably also worth going to the next area meet to see if I can get someone to listen first hand and see if they think the noises are normal or odd

P.S. - I think it was that day, I was taking my 93 year father for a spin - getting him in was fun and getting him out was even funnier - I guess he must be one of the oldest blokes to manage to get his sorry backside in and out of a 7. His verdict - "the most terrifying and exhilarating experience since flying Hurricanes !!"

I've recently bought a 1993 1400 K 16v Supersport as my first Caterham with 26.000 miles. Thoroughly loving the Caterham experience especially the exhaust note and acceleration (particularly when you're above 6,000 revs !!) Having been used mainly as track day car for around 10+ years and doing around 6,000 miles in that time, there were a few things to do to get it through it's MOT, although these were fairly easy and it flew through after only a few weeks work. One thing I've noticed having now done around 800 miles myself in the last month or so, is the a whine from the rear (diff I think) on deceleration and a clonk coming from the rear when going from deccelaration to acceleration. The car is fitted with an APST limited slip diff (fitted by Road and Race in 2000). Don't know if the diff oil has been changed, but given the mileage would guess not. I've been underneath and checked the A frame and suspension fixings and these all seem to be sound (no movements and torques seem OK), so guess it must be linked to the rear diff. No obvious oil leaks, albeit the diff itself is a bit grimey - dif seems to be working OK (both wheels run together when both off the floor), Questions:- 1. Am I on the right track, or could it be the suspension bushes (currently ruled out as no movement in suspension supports and the car seems to handle fine) 2. I hear whining diffs are not uncommon especially on LSD's - but what about the clonk 3. Would changing the diff oil improve matters - if so any recommendations as to grade of oil - also if so where's the drain plug (all seems a bit tight around the back, and I can't even find the nut for checking the oil level). 4. Finally - and probably the case !! - Am I just a newby previously used to driving in more cosseted (quiet) environments and there's nothing to worry about - just one of the joys of Caterham ownership. Any thoughts welcomed

Guilty as charged

Yes please Sent you a private message