Toby S

Agreed - great day for a blat - Fish Hill was made for the 7

X*** SEV I think - I was in the black S3 with yellow nose coming out of the turning from Broadway Tower

If you fancy getting change out of £500 for all 4 corners try the attached www.protechshocks.co.uk Changed the old Bilsteins on my 1400 Supersport for these (single adjusters) and never looked back. Well made, good level of dampening and good value. I think they are or at least were the main supplier to Westfield. You might also want to look at springs at the same time - I went for 250 front/150 rears (was 300/200 which was a bit too hard for road use) which works pretty well for roads use on the K series. No doubt a CSR will be a diffrent beast

Turning right from Hatfield bank onto Brookend Lane towards Norton Barracks

Really nice looking car Nick and I think the price is good given the spec and the bodywork looks exceptional for the age - much better than mine. I've got a 1400 supersport (1993) myself and I think they are great car especially for someone new to sevening. The only thing I can surmise is people being put off seeing 1400 and assuming a small engine will be a bit slow and/or the age thinking it my have a rust problem - not much you can do about the first one (except perhaps try and time a 0-60 time and include that in the advert) - re the second, have you thought about including a few shot of the underneath in the advert (after possibly getting the hammerrite out first - just a couple of thoughts Regards

Blue classic around 4pm

De-dion for me

SM25T I did phoned him a few week after I bought them in July and told him how impressed I was, but good idea for me to e-mail him so he can make best use of the recommendation - I've now covered around 2,000 miles since fitting them and messed around with the various settings - I find 7-8 on the front (0ut of 13) with 5 on the rears works best for me on the Worcestershire and mid Wales A and B roads. It's worth noting that Protech are the main supliers to Westfield for their kit cars as well as doing loads of shocks for TVRs and track cars - That'll no doubt put the kiss of death on it for the purists !!! Regards

I had a similar dilemma with my 1993 1400 16v Supersport. When I bought it, it had been set up and used mainly on the track days for the last 10 years, and the front shocks were starting to leak a bit and way past their best. The springing on it was also very hard 300 Ib ft on the front with 200 Ib ft on the rears with Bilstein dampers- using it mainly on the road I was starting to lose too many fillings !! I looked around and considered the options (I looked at the Nitrons but really couldn't justify the cost) In the end, and by recommendation, I went for Protech single adjusters with 250 Ib ft springs on front, 150Ibft on the rears. They are fuller adjustable for ride height. I've got to say I've been very pleased with the results - really good quality and service, they look good on the car and the handling for road use has been transformed - 1000 times better. I also got change out of £550 for all 4 corners for the dampers and the springs combined. Living in Worcester, I went to the factory unit in Melksham and the units were built whist I waited. Kevin the owner was brilliant talking me through the options - in fact he deterred me from splashing out on double adjusters advising for road use (unless you are driving like a loon) double adjusters would be a waste of money. www.protechshocks.co.uk I really can't recommend them enough in terms of value, service and overall performance - no doubt there are better options for the connoisseur (Nitrons etc) but you need to really weigh up cost v reward especially if its mainly for road use Take a look and see what you think Regards Toby

Did mine for the first time a month or so ago on a 1993 1400 Supersport. Went fine but as people say take your time. You seem to have all the key points, and it's pretty straight forward and you suggested route is similar to the way I went about it, although I decided on balance to replace the foam baffle. Interesting point/pointers arising from my experience:- Sump came off fine and had drained well - not huge amounts of oil left, although a bit sludgy at the bottom - not sure when it had last come off I was somewhat surprised to fine 1/2 the baffle plate sitting in the bottom of the sump - baffle plate seemed to have split completely in half longways through the securing holes - can only assume it had been bodged together at some point - Fellas at Redline supplied a new one (no they hadn't heard of that one before neither) Foam was in reasonably good nick, although there was evidence of small amounts of debris in the pick up pipe gauze. In line with Alcester 7 recommendations, once completing the oil change I also removed the rocker covers to ensure there wasn't any debris which had made it's way up into the comshaft area but it was clean I reused the gasket and it was fine - no oil leaks post oil change - I wasn't aware of the drilling holes recommendation at the time hence left it as it was Do remember to prime the new oil filter as you suggest - avoids you worrying yourself silly when there is zippo oil pressure recording when you crank the engine with the plugs out. I replaced with 5W/50 Comma oil as suggestedDone around 1,000 miles post oil change and all is well - 4+ bar on start up, dropping to around 1.5 bar at tick over when warm and zipping between to 3 - 4 bar when revved Good luck

Got mine made up at following http://www.dmb.uk.com Came through in a couple of days post ordering, seemed pretty good qaulity, and they will size plate (length) to suit number of letters/digits with all letters/numbers being the required legal size. Re legality, I've been running with my stuck on nose cone front plate for around a year and have not yet been questioned by Mr Plod - keep the solid plate in the boot (sorry officer it fell off) just in case

you have an e-mail re rover filler cap

Look on Rimmer Bros or Moss Europe in the Triumph spitfire front brake sections and you'll find a shim and spring kit which sorted the same problem on mine

Orange with black stripe last Thursday (1 June) afternoon parked outside the Wentworth Hotel, Aldeburgh. I was on holiday in the family bus - Wish I had the 7 with me though - some nice driving roads over that neck of the woods and last week the weather was glorious - I was green with envy

I have run with a front plate stuck to the nose cone for about a year and so far haven't had a problem with Mr Plod - I think generally they leave us alone unless you're doing something extremely naughty or if they are a petrol head and are interested in knowing more about the car. Other comments are quite correct - it is technically illegal, but you throw the dice and takes your chance

I like the butler idea myself

I agree with Roger I've found the Moss Europe discs are fine with Mintex 1144 front pads and the uprated caterham rears, plus upgraded brake fluid and a well bled system (the latter point is key) - no probs in locking the fronts on a standard master cylinder and good feedback

I had a click noise on mine after I changed the discs and pads. Both sides, but for different reasons !! On one side it was the split pin going through the stub axle/castallation nut - I'd left it a little too long and it was moving (rotating slightly) and making contact with the centre hub cap - easily sorted by playing around with and replacing the split pin with a slightly shorter one and being a bit more careful in splitting the pin I assumed the other side was the same reason, but it wasn't - finally came down to slight movement of the pads in the calliper (does the click occur when spinning the wheel anti clockwise on nearside wheel or clockwise on the offside wheel - if so this could be it) - sorted it by repositioning the pads and adding shims - now all bedded in and no noise.I hope this helps Good luck in whittling down the problem Regards

Thanks Elie and M1 Se7en - I've looked at their website and the prices seem pretty reasonable, and a 3 year guarantee should be testament as to the quality M1 - a couple of questions if you don't mind I guess at the price you went for the single adjustment 400 series versions - Do you use mainly on roads or track Did you just order off the web, or speak to someone about specing your requirements for your car - just wondering how knowledgible they were about Caterhams e.g spring ratings etc and giving adviceI'll give them a call in the morning to discuss, just thought I'd ask

Front suspension starting to look a bit tired (both springers and dampers) - with the near side damper showing serious signs of leakage hence no doubt will be an MOT failure (due at the end of May) - therefore looks as if I'll need to bite the bullet and replace. Looks as if currently running with bilsteins at the front and rear, not sure on the springs. Looks to be adjustable top and bottom. Car used mainly for fast blats down Worcestershire A/B roads and doing around 3,500 miles per year Any recommendations - I've looked through google search and there seems to be various in terms of dampers - Spax, Avo, Nitron ( which seem to go from the pricey to the cor-blimey). - really looking for good value options. as on a budget. Other questions would you replace springs as well as dampers - springs are showing signs of rust and look a bit tired. Would you replace rears at same time I see on Caterham parts website, there seems to be standard Rover 150Ib springs available - would these be the ones to go for.Any advice/tips/experiences much appreciated

I'm interested in the gauges depending on era - I'll e-mail you separately for you to send me some photos - mines a 1993 K series I assume they were all working before you took them off Don;t suppose you'd split them - one I'm really after is the temperature guage

Heading down the hill from British Camp towards Ledbury - I was in the black with yellow nose coming up the hill

Heading down the hill from British Camp towards Ledbury - I was in the black with yellow nose coming up the hill

For info mines a 1993 1400 Supersport on 1997 plates (was initial used as a Silverstone track day car before being registered in 1997) and I've always managed to convince MOT stations that its a visual smoke test only due to the VIN number. This would seem to be the best course of action

Try Rimmer brothers www.rimmerbros.co.uk Last time I looked they had a genuine Rover part, as well as OEM alternatives