Toby S

I suppose there anyone out there who wants to sell their luggage rack (the one that sits on the spare wheel and is supported by the spare wheel carrier and a strap)

Haven't seen people about around Worcestershire for a while and then 2 spots in one weekend Saturday - Severn Stoke on the A38 south of Worcester - Green with clamshells - D reg I think - gave you a toot Sunday - Hollybush/Eastnor going over the Malverns - yellow heading East - I was heading West - we gave each other a cheery wave

I love the suggestions made - definately 2 camps of owners here - the technical based argument, and the "give is a lash" and see what the car does - Must say I fall into the latter !!

Similar experience to DJ with standard callipers and Mintex 1144's - fitted triumph metal shims, plus a smear of copper grease which solved the problems - the mintex stick on pads are effectively stick on shims although I've found the pads can be a pain to get out after use as the piston embeds in the pad and almost gets welded in the stick on pad due to heat generation thus making it difficult to pull the pads out without getting the calliper well open first and liberal use of a Longbridge screwdriver.

Halcyon mark 49 goggles, Worcester Warriors padded flying helmet hat covering the ears (saves on earplugs) and fastening under the chin, and a buff (if cold). Pretty much the same as when I road a BSA for many years with open face helmet back in the 80's Seemed to offer sufficient protection (i,e, no injuries) when some arse decided to pebble dash me going along the A38 after it had just been re-tarmaced when he couldn't be bothered to slow down below 70 - I had only had the Brookland screens on for 2 days so it was an early test I guess and there were loads of stones kicked over. I agree with the other comments - re passengers (I have a second set of goggles and hat/buff), although warn them of the risks - and that's the crux of it - you pays your money and takes your choice - yes a full face helmet would give you ultimate protection, but then you lose all pleasure of fitting aero/brookland screens. Having a windscreen and side screens isn't exactly risk free in a Caterham from flying stones. No doubt I'll change my mind once I lose an eye, but you only live once.

I agree with SJS, having fitted brookland screens this weekend to my 93 Supersport. I levered mine off with a screwdriver between the wiper arms and nut on spindle surround to get things moving - came off easily after that. Not sure if you will need to but I also needed to get the wiper spindles out of the way and also remove the washer jet as the brookland screens mount located directly over the spindles and washer jet. The wiper mechanism is only held in place by the 2 nuts referred to above - you need to loosen the nuts and then tap the spindles with a rubber mallet to push the wiper mechanism through into the cockpit, and lift off the wiper spindle extensions and rubber seals from the scuttle.

This morning around 11ish - Green, one up, heading towards Ledbury

Thanks all- Seems to be whilst running once warm or straight after switch off when warm (before all the oil has drained to the sump - never tried checking mine when cold (I guess that would reduce the level from checking when warm) - might see what the difference is, although I'd guess 1/2 a litre or so.

I've seen various threads in the past on how to dip the oil on the K series (runing or not running) and the pros and cons/Minister method/original caterham method/ new recommended method etc. Mine is a wet sump, without Apollo tank. I check once engine is warm (80-85 degrees) - when dipping 30 seconds after switch off, level is at max on dip stick - if I then I check again when engine running (quick dip) it only just registers a few millimeters on the end of the dip stick, below the minimum level (I've got the hatched marked dipstick). Fearing oil starvation, I've so far been adding more oil to get the level on the quick dip method (engine running) at least registering between the min and max levels (in the middle) on the dip stick (usually around 1/2 a litre) to then know the oil pick up will not be sucking on thin air, albeit when I then switch off the oil levels are miles over the max when the engine is not running. 3 questions 1. Is the disparity in levels my engine seems to be recording between the 2 methods something I should be worried about - I would guess the difference in the amount of oil in the engine between the 2 method in getting the same reading on the dipstick could be a litre or more 2. Am I doing it right under current thinking, or am I overfilling - i.e should be taken with engine switched off 3. Should I be whacking it up to the max on the quick dip method (engone running), i.e. putting even more oil in. Sorry if I'm being a bit thick

In 185/60/13 format all round as an everyday tyre , I use Yokohama A539 which seem a reasonable compromise between wear, dry and wet weather grip - not the best in any of them but like I say a compromise For summer I'm going for Toyo R888R's 185/60 on front and 205/60 on the rears on 6 inch rims - won't drive it on these in the rain though, as I might be pointing the wrong way. What power output are you putting out

My 1993 1400 supersport with LSD clunks - sounds pretty normal.- one of the downsides of LSD, although brilliant power slides is the bonus - pays your money and takes your choice

I guess how 13 inch fill the arches depends on the profile of tyres fitted - I've generally gone for 60 profiles to get a bit more warning before the rears are going to breakaway and the size of the wheels look good in the wheel arch. I've got a feeling in the early 90's (mines a 1993 supersport) the standard profile used was even bigger with 70's fitted. 185/60 do give a 10%+over read on the speedo I've got 2 sets of 13x6", one set with 185/60 A539 Yokohama's all round for general/autumn and winter use and one set with Toyo R888R's 185/50 fronts and 205/60 rears for summer use. 205's are the max for 6" wide rims

I've got Protech on my 1993 1400 Supersport and I think they are great plus also value for money - definitely better the the Bilsteins I was replacing. Single adjusters have around 13 settings to play with You say the ride is choppy - I know with mine, it had been set up for mainly track use when I bought it, and the spring rates I felt (or should I say, my backside and fillings felt) were a bit harsh for the road, which is where I typically drive the car - They were 300ib front and 200 ib rears which I reduced to 250Ib front and 150Ib rears, set the front dampers at around 8/9 and the rears at 4 (soft) and the car handles just fine - Ok I'm not driving at the limits like you would on the track, but overall I'm very pleased. You should be able to get some change out of £600 for the lot and has left me enough to put some R888R's on the rims for the summer. Happy to chat off line if you like. Regards

For what it's worth, when I changed my rear disks, (1993 supersport) , I got the replacements from Moss (spitfire ones with the funny anti corrosion coating) for around a £10 a pair, and the whizzed the bolts off with an electric Sealey impact wrench with the desired size impact socket, after soaking them in WD40 - Had been in place for at least 10 years and came off a dream. Tightenedd them back up with locktite and torque wrench 35 Ib ft per handbook

Thanks - I'll have them - E-mail sent

Are the wheels De Dion fitment or live axle stud pattern If former I'm very interested.

I got a set from Magnecor last year (the red ones) and they are very good - changed the distributor and rotor arm at the same time which I'd also recommend (got them from Rimmer Bros). Standard Rover 25/200 leads are long enough I would suggest however that you try and take a picture of the coil end connection, as when mine first arrived it had the wrong end - they changed it for a few quid extra without too much of a fuss - it was just a bit of a faff and in the end I sent them the old cable to ensure the coil end was correct - mine sounds the like it's the same as yours.

Does any one have any half doors surplus to their requirements they might want to sell Regards Toby

1993 1400 k supersport - wet sump Grade used:- 5/50 used as that's what the handbook stated back in 1993 - didn't state to use different between road or track use - I'm not an engineer hence can't see a reason to change Make:- Comma - best value especially on internet deals - last bought 15 litres (3 cans) for around £60 a year or so ago when it was on offer - can't remember where - seems fine and also my 1400 engine has a tendency to burn a bit (I'd guess possibly worn valve stems, but given other than burning a bit of oil it runs and revs like stink so I'm not that bothered) Oil changes - Once a year circa every 4,000 miles, although mine is all road use Foam or no foam - I go for foam (again I'm not an engineer and assume engine designers knew what they were doing) - meant to reduce oil surge - changed mine last year and would plan to change every second oil change - every second year Oil pressure - 4 Bar (56 PSI) on start up tick over, blipping up to 5 Bar (70PSI) on throttle blips. Once warmed up 1.5 - 2 bar on tickover (20-28 PSi), although increases to 3-4 Bar under load. Drops slightly on hard acceleration and cornering, although much less so when oil levels are at max mark on dipstick - key is to make sure the oil is topped up to the max at all times to ensure oil pressure maintained. Hope this helps

First one around 11 am - White with orange stripe crossing Putney Bridge. Second - Black - around 3pm, in Earlsfield/Southfield

Sorry for late input, but the main problem with use of sidelights (as with many other features of driving) is the lack of clarity in the exact highway code rules - which in the case of lighting states (bold italics are my comments). Rule 113 You MUST ensure all sidelights and rear registration plate lights are lit between sunset and sunrise - Seems those car which have dispensed with side lights altogether are technically illegal use headlights at night, except on a road which has lit street lighting. These roads are generally restricted to a speed limit of 30 mph (48 km/h) unless otherwise specified Use headlights when visibility is seriously reduced (see Rule 226 which states you MUST use headlights when visibility is seriously reduced, generally when you cannot see for more than 100 metres).Night (the hours of darkness) is defined as the period between half an hour after sunset and half an hour before sunrise). Therefore from the above it would suggest driving on sidelights is acceptable for the first 30 mins after sunset and first 30 mins before sunrise and also in a 30mph well street light lit areas unless visibility is seriously reduced to under 100 metres Section 114 You MUST NOT use any lights in a way which would dazzle or cause discomfort to other road users, including pedestrians, cyclists and horse riders - which from my cycling days few seem to comply with on unlit roads use front or rear fog lights unless visibility is seriously reduced. You MUST switch them off when visibility improves to avoid dazzling other road users (see Rule 226) - This has go to be the most abused rule on the road In stationary queues of traffic, drivers should apply the parking brake and, once the following traffic has stopped, take their foot off the footbrake to deactivate the vehicle brake lights. This will minimise glare to road users behind until the traffic moves again. - few drivers of automatics apply this rule115 You should also use dipped headlights, or dim-dip if fitted, at night in built-up areas and in dull daytime weather, to ensure that you can be seen - seems to contradict rule 113 keep your headlights dipped when overtaking until you are level with the other vehicle and then change to main beam if necessary, unless this would dazzle oncoming road users slow down, and if necessary stop, if you are dazzled by oncoming headlightsThe main problem the highway code is it doesn't cover all eventualities e.g. use of sidelights and front fog lights only in dense fog at night to avoid glare back from headlights bouncing off the fog - sensible (only if fog lights are low slung) but technically illegal use of headlights when driving out of low sun (bright sunny day) to ensure you can been seen by on coming traffic again sensible but not really covered in the aboveThe highway code assumes use of judgment (one major human frailty) and fundamentally the rule needs to be use sufficient lighting in order to be seen or to see which also means taking into account density and type of traffic around you and the lighting vehicles around you have on Look on the bright side - within 20 years, none of this will be a problem to any of us anymore as having a human controlling any aspect of transportation (let alone just the decision of whether to put the lights on) will no longer be deemed an acceptable risk to take in the bubble world we will then live in controlled by Apple and Microsoft - the Caterham of 2040 is going to be a real hoot - not. P.S Yes - I am one of the "morons" who trusts my judgment and drives on sidelights in accordance with the above rules. I also change lane on motorways without indicating (when pulling back in after overtaking slower vehicles, or shock horror when moving out when there are no faster vehicles closing up behind me), and don't get me started on the rules on overtaking on the white diagonal lines in the centre of wide 2 way traffic roads (typically former 3 lane roads with the old middle "chicken" lane - weren't they just great) Nuff of the rant

I use Comma fully synthetic 5W 50 as recommended in handbook for my 1400 K Supersport

If it was due to the traction control cutting in due to wheel spin, to be getting that degree of pad wear differential, surely you would also be noticing the a similar diffrential in tyrewear between n/s and o/s - is there any marked diffrences there. Perhaps it could be a faulty traction control sensor intermittedly braking the near side of the vehicle when they are not actually spinning, although I suspect if it were the handling would be all over the place as the car would be constantly pulling to the left. Noit much help I'm afraid, but I would suggest a diagnostic plug in at Vauxhall would be required to check if theyre is a problem or whether they have any answers

I have a 1993 1400 Supersport and tally with SM25T's advise, although on mine there only seemed to be 2 settings, albeit at the time I was looking for the brake light switch as opposed to moving the pedals and so didn't trying adjusting the pedals so can't comment how easy it is. P.S. for info the brake light switch isn't down there on those era Supersports - its a hydraulic switch just infront of the master cylinder

Consider Toyo R888R 185/60 front 205/60 on the rears - should balance the car quite well and neutralise natural oversteer a bit - the previous owner of my 1400 Supersport ran this size combination on 13 x 6 inch rims with Yokohama AO48's (no longer available) and swore by it. These are road legal track day tyres though so don't expect huge mileage nor the best wet grip although huge grip in the dry - really depends how much driving you do in the rain and how much grip you want.